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ROM/FX Voice Amp


solarpickle
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I use the Hyperdyne Vortex too. It has the static and clicks after every time you talk. I also have 4 different blaster sounds. I have the 49.00

Radio Shack gig with the boom mic and the white little speaker amplifier.

I have the amp mounted inside the upper small box on my pack. I am very pleased with everything the Vortex does. Not cheap! But If you want the good stuff it will always cost you!

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I've been wondering about the feasibility of doing a trooper voice effect and static burst amp, using software and a small computer (specifically a Gumstix cpu with the sound board add-on). Unfortunately, I've never done any audio processing work before so I don't know what sort of manipulation would need to be done to get the correct effects.

If done right, the same bit of gear could do the Vader voice or any other simply by editing a config file on the MMC card. If anybody knows what sort of manipulation would be used to create the trooper voice sound, I'd be willing to give a shot at writing the software.

If the 200MHz processor (roughly Pentium 90MHz equivalent) can handle the processing load, it could be done somewhere in the $150 range, I think. It'd be pretty small, at about 80mm x 40mm x 12mm (the Gumstix is 80mm x 20mm x 6.3mm, audiostix looks to be about 2x as wide).

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  • 2 months later...

Mount it in your helmet and you will be shocked. I have the speakers mounted in the helmet and they pipe through areators and by doing that it actualy increased the volume, very cool. Did you get the pro or standard version and what did you put for your startup sound?

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I purchased the "Skullworx" voice amp system...

It works great but unfortunately does NOT have the static burst effect...

Is there a separate static burst unit that can be purchased which is compatible with the Skullworx unit?

Any info would be appreciated.

TK-1044

Midwest Garrison

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  • 3 weeks later...

Did you get the pro or standard version and what did you put for your startup sound?

i got the standard version....and at the moment, it just says the "rom/fx" thingy when you turn it on like it says on the site, can you change that?

Yep, just to John I think is his name, (TK-265) he also makes a kit so you can change the startup sound and the programed in sounds as well. On mine, when it starts up it says "You rebel Scum!" and on my three sounds I have "Let me see your identification" and "Move Along, Move Along" and of course the imperial march for when I need some personal theam music.

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  • 2 months later...

Sorry to dredge up an old thread

Has anyone done a side-by-side comparison of the Hyperdyne and RomFX boards? Hyperdyne stated their boards would be back in stock next week and I'd like to get one, but everyone raves about the RomFX. Just wanted to know how both size up for a TK looking to add the static burst to his amp.

And I saw Triktoys is now selling it. Any experience with that model?

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  • 1 year later...

That said, on one has done a side by side of the new TrikToys and the Rom. Part of why the Rom is so fantastic is that it's digital and others are analog, so the sound quality and fidelity are unmatched.

Ideally we'd see a show down of the new Trik, the TCI (TrooperComInterface), and the Rom.

I have a TCI on order and a Bommar, and can compare both to the Rom. If someone wants to send me a Trik, I'll compare that in person too

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  • 1 month later...

I got one of the last batch of ROM/FX kits (after having used a skullworx with a hyperdyne) and I am so happy with it! The ROM/FX replaces both the skullworks and hyperdyne, making my bucket a lot less crowded.

One thing though: the ROM/FX works best using 12V DC. It'll burn through a 9V battery in no time flat, but with, say 8 AAs (12V) my unit has been used on several trooping events with the same batteries and with no problems at all.

I will be looking into using AAA batteries in the future however, as getting 8 AAs in a RT/Mod bucket isn't easy!

Great product, if pricey.

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One thing though: the ROM/FX works best using 12V DC. It'll burn through a 9V battery in no time flat, but with, say 8 AAs (12V) my unit has been used on several trooping events with the same batteries and with no problems at all.

I will be looking into using AAA batteries in the future however, as getting 8 AAs in a RT/Mod bucket isn't easy!

Great product, if pricey.

It's pretty easy to wore up a 9v and two AAs to give you 12 volts with less space.

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Sorry it took so long...here's a quick and crappy diagram for wiring the batteries in series.

The AA battery holder here is Radio Shack Model: 270-382

Catalog #: 270-382. It uses a 9v snap connector, they have those at Rat Shack too.

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Should yield you 12 volts and more life than a single 9v. I haven't tried this on anything other than EMG bass pickups, so let me know if it works okay.

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I recently got off my lazy *** and took two 4xAA battery boxes and wired them up to make the output 12V DC. This fits nicely in the back of my RT bucket and provides the perfect amount of juice for the ROM/FX board.

If anyone wants pics let me know and I can show you how it was done. Just some changes are needed to get it set up.

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  • 1 month later...

I recently got off my lazy *** and took two 4xAA battery boxes and wired them up to make the output 12V DC. This fits nicely in the back of my RT bucket and provides the perfect amount of juice for the ROM/FX board.

If anyone wants pics let me know and I can show you how it was done. Just some changes are needed to get it set up.

I be interested in seeing you how you did it for future reference...

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Okay, here's some pics of what I did. It's not the prettiest hack job, but it works great.

Here's a pic of the first box, it's unmodded. Note that this box has the on/off switch:

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Here is a pic of the second, modded, box:

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I removed the on/off switch from the second box and soldered the red wire from the first box into the point where the on/off switch was connected in the second box (it's the little metal tab on the left of the pic).

Then I connected the black (ground) wire from the first to the red from a 9V connector wire, and the red from the second box to the black from the 9V connector. That gives 12V output that I can hook up to the ROM/FX:

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No more changing batteries after 2 hours of trooping! Heck, I have been using the same batteries for the last 3 troops!

It helps to have a volt meter to check the output, in case you wire up something backwards (like I did the first time I tried this ), that way you can make sure you got it right and not risk frying your ROM/FX.

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