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  1. Well hello there! I am glad to say I am quite new, both in the forums and the MEPD my first outfit was a shadow scout, TX11559, however recently I got approved and got my sand trooper kit (Walter) So, first of all, hello! I am excited to be part of the forums, and can't wait to be in more troops, I have uploaded a picture which was my first troop with the outfit, helping with adoption day for dogs, walk around the city, and having kids and people getting excited Best regards, Barak - TX/TD11559 - Israel outpost.
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  2. I agreed with Bigwam, my return edge is very thin
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  3. I would make the returnedge on the chest and back no more than 3 - 4 mm. At the top, towards the shoulders, I would pretty much go for 1 mm, as a strong RE can put pressure on the shoulders.
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  4. Well, the basic CRLs reflect the image of the typical Sandtrooper. This can be recognized by the shoulder pauldron. I do not understand the problem. If you value having a TD without a pauldron, try to reach level 3. The TD without pauldron would be a step up to level 3. At level 3 the CRLs dictate that you emulate a specific TD. Means identical in armor (special features, damage, match) and weathering. A 1:1 match to the film model that is as accurate as possible. For me, simply leaving out the pauldron isn't an improvement if the rest doesn't fit. Sorry. If it's so important to you not to have one, then rent a pauldron, add the basic and leave it out later. Thanks, Thomas
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  5. You and I have actually talked about this topic on the legion forum. It was also brought to my attention that you posted this to Instagram is well, saying this isn't approvable. This costume is approvable at level 3, SWAT. So, it is in fact approvable. This rule is in place for the very reason you stated in the post. The MEPD does not want to be the place people take old, yellowed TKs without any upgrades. For level one approval, you will need to add pouches and a pauldron. If you wish to approve as a higher level, you will first need to approve to level one and then you will need to pause the film and copy the armor style and weathering pattern exactly to the character you have chosen.
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  6. It popped up now, so maybe getting into the forums did the trick. Thanks.
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  7. Hello MEPD members, here is my progress on the radio for my Field backpack. However, this will be a 2 part as I have a plan to finish the radio and place it to the lower seed trays. Items(New): Plastic cabinet feet (This will be the foundation of the radio feet. As seen it can be found in ACE) Everbilt 10-24 screws and nuts (These screws will hold the plastic cabinet feet than the ones that came with the plastic feet. This can be found in the Home Depot) Masking tape 1 mm by 1.5 mm screws and nuts (These will hold the microphone jacket in place and can be found in ACE, Im sorry I dont have an image of these screws outside of the assembly) An arbor and 2 M6 washers (The arbor[The right one] came with the sanding disk template for radar dish for my Mortar Tube and since I didn’t have the actual antenna with my radio kit but these will make it look convincing. The washers will hold the arbor both in and out of the radio and make it look like an antenna. These can be found in ACE[Again]) Binder clips Leather hole puncher Fabric scissors or rotary cutter and cutting matt (To cut the Pleather) Radio parts (This is an Idea of what crashmann gave me, even without the feet and antenna I got resourceful and you'll see scrolling down.) Clamps Pleather (This can be found in Hobby Lobby and maybe Joann’s) Heavy Duty snaps and snap placer (This can be found in Hobby Lobby and Walmart) Industrial sewing machine (I was lucky and found a work shop that had an industrial sewing machine that I could use for free and I have no experience with manually sewing leather and I can imagine it is challenging.) Gorilla glue and/or super glue (This can be found in Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes and ACE) Items(Recurring): E6000 Matt Black Paint Screwdriver Drill and drill bits Procedure: Now this was a challenge to start off but my radio kit came with 5 plastic parts to make the formation of the exterior of the radio and how that was done was I used masking tape to hold off the edges with E6000. Along with the E6000 I used metal dumbbells to keep them in place. However, I can only do one side at a time and wait till 24 hours for the E6000 to dry but I can see why that was important. This was recommended by Crashmann himself and works like a charm. Not shown(sorry again) was the completed version of the sewed on pleather with the industrial sewing machine, but you can see it here as I explore how will it be displayed on the radio box held by binder clips. The next thing I did was used a drill bit that is about half an inch long and used a round file to expand the hole that would hold that would fit the microphone jacket. With the half inch drill in my grasp I used it to poke a hole on the pleather and you can see the result on screen. After placing the Microphone jacket on the right side of the radio box I used a small drill bit to poke holes that would allow me to put screws and nut in order to hold the microphone jacket. Once that was complete I started to focus on the left side where I would need to drill in holes that would hold the AUX connectors. However After I have drilled these holes the connectors were able to fit but not completely the connectors had a little gap that wasn’t letting the connectors connect to the wall, so I used a round file to expand the hole horizontally and they fit perfectly. This drill but I have here was to place in the arbor to act as the antenna for my radio and you will see how it went later on. However, after I have drilled the hole I sprayed the rubber feet, the box, the radio faceplate, 1 of the M6 washer, the tips of the 10-24 screws and the plastic parts that would hold, elastic strap to carry the radio and the dials.(Sorry I don’t have the picture for all of them but there painted and present I assure you.) After all of the painting I got to start putting everything together on the exterior of the box and how I did it was if I was doing the right side placed the microphone jacket on the drilled pleather hole than I screwed the jacket on the wall to keep it in place. Finally I spread some gorilla glue all over the side and used binder clips, clamps, and some blocks of wood(these will come back later) to hold one side for about 24 hours and will repeat the same thing but just for the different sides.(As shown with the left side as well) Note: Crashmann did tell me there was one way to bind the pleather to the walls and that was using acetone and ABS shards. This combination is apparently very effective and has the same wait time as well 24 hours. However, I didn’t have any acetone or enough ABS shards to perfect this adhesive but I recommend if anyone wants to try that out than feel free if they don’t want to try the gorilla glue method. Finally when working on the feet this was a little more complicated than expected before painting the parts I listed I checked how long I needed the small 2 pleather straps and where they would be placed too. However drilling the holes with a 5/16 or 5/32 drill bit to place the feet and the snaps were even more difficult and I made sure they were at least an inch away from the edge but having so much scattered holed I had to putty them up and staring again, this time accurate alignments and depictions of how it should look like. In the end the straps were about 2.5 inches long to hold the feet and snaps, drilled in new holes on the box, gluing the bottom pleather to the bottom box, poked a hole with an exacto knife for the straps and used a leather hole puncher to guide the screws and snaps onto the radio box. Here is the final result on screen. Part II of this construction will be putting the radio faceplate together and screwing the radio on to the front lower seed tray with questionable brackets I made to hold them together(when I post a picture of these brackets you’ll see why). Please let me know if this will be ok for my PO since its not from SONIX radio or anyone who sells the real radio, I still want to thank crashmann for providing me such a great product to have for my sandie and I would hate to redo a finished product but at the same time I have no idea if its good or not for the Police Officer rank. I am glad how it came out and look out for more posts down the road. Finally in the weapons thread I made a post with question about an E-11 I purchased for clarity so I don't make a mistake on my submission(more info on that post).
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  8. Posted this over at FISD and thought some may find it interesting here Made by Torsten Hallman 1970's And an oldie but a goodie, for those who may not have seen this image
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  9. Ahhh! Better yet found the updated pics, thanks Koryu1212(Dan D) and BIGWAM.
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  10. Hello, they are romanian, not spanisch. I have original spanisch Pouches for sale, each for 25 Euro: Regards, bigwam
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  11. In addition to the CRLs, the following rules apply to Level 2 (deployed Police Officer). Moreover, it is up to the DOs to make additional decisions for or against acceptance. We also expect a PO candidate to be well informed about level 2, we suggest to read the threads here and ask questions if guidance is necessary. Helmet: is made out of fiberglass, ABS or HIPS It is white, with appropriate weathering and does not contain excessive stylization. It must match proportionally to what was seen on screen No FX Helemts are allowed! All visible screws have to be off the correct countersunk flathead type with a diameter of 7 mm and no washers are to be used. Flat green helmet lenses, made from lighting gel material, green welder´s mask face shield, acetate, or similiar product. correct Hovi-Mix Mic tips Helmet details must be hand painted. Decals, including decals, that emulate hand painting are not allowed. Three or four teeth on either side of the helmet frown may be cut out a mesh behind the frown is not allowed Backpack: Desert Backpack, styled after the ANH sandtrooper packs. they consist of two main boxes (aka Seed Trays), that are the approximate width of the backplate correct bend on frame Vacu-formed radio faceplates are not allowed Pay attention to the pleather Cover, sockets, strap holders and antenna on the radio Strict screen accuracy is required! While not every Sandtrooper in the film had a backpack, we feel that this level of commitment and overall design of the character should be attained. This also means taking no personal liberties such as LED lights, etc. For the color of the backpack parts, a greyish-blue color is recommended to meet the requirements of screen accuracy. Pauldron: Pauldron has no decals or patches and matches. The overally dimensions and look as seen on screen (not to thin) Shoulder Bells: Shoulder bells have no stickers or patches!! Shoulder Straps: no ribbed shoulder straps are present Shoulder straps shall be white elastic waistband material (4,5 - 5 cm wide) a sew-on snap be sewn to the bottom side of the elastic to attach the black elastic shoulder bell strapping must be present Chest Armor: Hardware from screen accurate bracket and strapping system must be visible in the bottom return edge of the chest plate. They may be functional or emulate the existence of the brackets. This refers to the 6 countersunk flathead screws with a distance of about 57 mm on the return edge of the chest. Armor: no FX-Armor is allowed! RotJ Armor which uses the overlap method to join the two halves of the armor is only allowed, if the applicant applies for the Special Edition Armor, otherwise for the ANH Sandtrooper, only the butt joint and cover strip method will be accepted. Hand Plates and Gloves: Hand plates are trapezoid shaped and made of latex or other flexible material. The gloves have to be black rubber chemical gloves. The plates are glued on the gloves. optional "cheese graters handplates" are also allowed Belt: Plastic plates covering the three rivets to attach the canvas belt are perfectly square Abdomen Armor: Armor side gaps are closed or nearly closed: No more than 1/2 inch (12,7 mm) gap on either side This is done by adding a shim (or shims) of a similar type and colour of material as the Abdomen and back Armor Shims fit flush, ideally they will be seamless to the Abdomen and/or Back Armor, resulting in a single seam between the two rather than extra seams where the shims are joined. Rivets on the left side of the Abdomen / Kidney Armor: A total of 6 brass split rivets with three on the Abdomen and three on the kidney. the rivets have a diameter of 8 mm and have to be painted white Rivets are equally spaced out along the lenth of the armor and abouth 10 mm from the edge. One snap on the top right hand side of the Abdomen Armor: Back of male side of snap shows on outside of Abdomen Armor Visible fasteners under lower Codpiece center area include one split rivet in the front: Fasteners need not be functional Posterior Armor (Buttplate): Visible fasteners under lower Buttpiece center includes two (or 3) male snaps in the back (snap part on the inside of the buttpiece). Fasteners need not be functional. Ammo Pouches: Black in color, made of canvas, leather The standard configuration calls for a minimum of two pouches: one pouch on the left shoulder and one on the right hip. For the Hip: Only leather pouches are allowed. Either small Spanish pouch, medium Spanish pouch, large Spanish pouch or Stolla Wien, Canvas pouches on the hip-ammobelt aren´t allowed. Pouches may be replicas. No MP-40 leatherpouch is allowed. a third worn on the opposite hip is allowed Option: If choosing to replicate a screen used configuration of equipment, the number of pouches may be altered Ammo pouches for the shoulder: Reproduction or original MP-40 ammo pouches are generally considered canon, they are made of canvas . Other acceptable names/designs include Stolla Wien and the once common "Norwegian" green MP-40 pouches (shown - only aceptable for the shoulder pouch), made in leather. If using a green pouch for the shoulder, they should be dyed or painted black. No canvas pouches for the hips! Also the more commonly availible leather large French pouch is not allowed! Thigh Armor: the knee ammobelt has to be attached via two split rivets, pop rivets aren´t allowed or the little whole in the middle has to be filled with bondo. The ends of the knee ammobelt have to be of an angular shape at the top and rounded at the bottom. Please see reference pics. Note the correct width of the cover strips! Again the thigh armor has to be fully closed at the back and for ANH configurations, the two halves are joined using the butt joint and coverstrip method. Lower Leg Armor Note the correct width and screenaccurae kind of the cover stripes (as with all ANH configurations) and the closing direction. Weapons: E-11 Blaster: Folding stock (does not need to function) A real or replica ammo counter based of a Hengstler counter - shall be present. D-Ring mounted on the rear Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-40 style scope Two power cylinders on the magazine housing Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-Tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). The T-Tracks have to be straight. No Rubies Rebels-Style blasters or Hasbro blasters are allowed. No ESB/RotJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster. If a Tunisian Bapty E-11 is the weapon of choice for PO already, no D-Ring is required. T-21 Light Repeating Blaster Rifle: A ribbed length of tubing shall be installed over the front of the gun barrel. A canvas, leather or nylon sling shall be attached. There is no sight present on the top where ribbing meets base but a bit of curled black cable. The blaster has to match the overall look of the WWI Lewis Gun. RT-97C Heavy Blaster Rifle Correct style scopes silver metal hose is present on the right hand side of barrel between the trigger and "saddle barrel" DLT-19 Heavy Blaster Rifle A DLT-19 is an MG-34 with T-Tracks on the barrel, ejection port cover added and a small disk on the left side. Also the right black wires on the T-Tracks to keep them in places as used in the movie We highly encourage the use of the Bapty version of the DLT-19, as the regular versions were used on the Death Star.
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  12. Looks like links are broken. Here are the same pictures again... Saludos
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