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Painting the bucket!?


td2878
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I know all the TE guys paint there buckets , i should be getting my ap soon and im thinking about painting the bucket is that a good idea?? Has anyone with anything other than te painted there buckets??? (if can you show pics??) Also by painting the bucket im guessing that the whole armor would also have to be painted!?

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Ryn_Skywlkr painted his AP, it looks great. You wouldn't have to paint everything, all the original armor had painted helms with plastic armor. Thusly they didn't match exactly. I used different whites on my helmet and armor, and even though they are fairly different, very few people have ever noticed without me pointing it out.

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wow yeah i was looking at his armor which is what prompted me to ask!!

ryan do you have any close ups of your helmet, also which paints did you use the coat of Krylon Fusion River Rock Satin, once that cures, you paint on some liquid latex where you want your chips to be, then you paint over that with Krylon Fusion Gloss white as per seths post??

thanks in advance

H.

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I did the same thing with a signed GF helmet. I just received my Keith mic tips and plan on gluing them in tomorrow.

Here are some pics of a GF with the krylon fusion RR and GW paint chip detail. I hand painted the frown and gray/black details. The blue tube stripes are from www.trooperdecals.com

Before the dirt...

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After the dirt...

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I used braks buddy's tutorial to dirty it up but instead of the woodland scenics I used acyrlic paints from walmart for .87 per bottle (burnt umber, raw sienna and yellow urcher). I acquired sand from Kuwait during "vacation" from a couple years ago that came in handy for this project. I applied some by using hairspray (same method used to apply fuller's earth). I'm awaiting an order of natural and slate gray fuller's earth to apply to the helmet and a future AP kit that I'm saving up for. I hope the pics help you out and shed some light on the chip effects. I believe the paint chip effect idea originated from Mike (TD1536)...

check it out here...the info is listed in the TE sandtrooper helmet section

http://www.tk1536.com/armor2.html

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wow yeah i was looking at his armor which is what prompted me to ask!!

ryan do you have any close ups of your helmet, also which paints did you use the coat of Krylon Fusion River Rock Satin, once that cures, you paint on some liquid latex where you want your chips to be, then you paint over that with Krylon Fusion Gloss white as per seths post??

thanks in advance

H.

Considering I assembled and painted it for him, I can answer this. Yes - he has an AP helmet, which was first painted with the Krylon Fusion River Rock, then masked in areas with liquid latex then painted gloss white, also Krylon Fusion. I also did Phil's helmet the same way, too.

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  • 1 month later...

I may be wrong, but I had a terrible time with the rustoleum paint. I have painted many things with spray cans in my life and this stuff is ruining my $900.00 armor. Its not made for plastic. It is made for metal, wood and concrete. Doesnt say anything about plastic.

I have tried spraying it light, sanding lightly, steel wool, primer. I have applied second coats within the specified time or waited 48 hours as the can says. Made sure the temp. was right. It still sucks. I had to put 6 coats of paint on my TE bucket to get it close to right. Its still not perfect, but thats OK. If I could get my AP armor to look as good as my helmet I would be OK with it.

If you are going sandy, dont sweat it, it wont matter. Just adds to the look. But if you are going death star glossy BE AFRAID, BE VERY AFRAID!

The only advice I can give here is DO NOT SAND your helmet. make sure its clean and grease free. also make sure that the temp is room temp. Not too cold or too hot.

The rustoleum paint is picky and I am going to call them on Monday and find out what I am doing wrong. I have never had such a hard time with spray paint.

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So are you going to go sandy now because of this?

If not, I'd just take your time, sand everything down, clean the armor, and start fresh with a different paint. The important thing is don't get flustered.

If you do decide to go TD, you can always save up and get another suit to do a TK. Especially with the new 1/2 price PVC AP.

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Just an update:

I just read on another board that a member there used oven cleaner to remove the old paint from his slot car bodies. You can maybe try that method to remove the bad paint. If it can be used on the thin plastic that those are made of, it should be okay for ABS shouldn't it?

Anybody know more about this before I ruin this guys armor?

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I figured it out. I have to say that the rustoleum is an awesome gloss, but the area must be prepped and smooth as a baby's butt before you paint. If not it will look terrible. Also, the first coat looked the best. I would wait three days between coats otherwise it will krinkle up on you. Your prep is what the painted product will reflect, only the flaws will be worse.

I also tried the Krylon Fusion and it goes on alot easier. The gloss is not as deep as the Rustoleum though.

I ended up wet sanding with 600 grit paper after I painted and using a light rubbing compound to make it shine. Novus! it works!

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I haved used rustoleum and havent had a problem,unless you let it dry then try and do a second coat.You want to prime and prep the area you are painting.then spray the white in one long and slow session,make sure you coat evenly and always end on the faceplate as your final spray.this way it ends up shiny.i have used a whole can doing this method with no runs and super shine.make sure you rotate the helmet as you spray and keep it even.watch how the paint lays as you spray it to unsure it lays evenly..it takes about 4 days for it to cure good before handling,otherwise you will end up with finger prints in the paint,they can be rubbed out,but try and avoid it.take your time and do it once and do it rite. oh yeah,Krylon works great if you want to get on the helmet fast,but it doesnt have the shine old rustoleum white has.

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