Art Andrews Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 On my last set of armor, a cyanoacrylate based glue, like super-glue, was used for the assembly of armor. However, on the original armor, the glue seems to be a white adhesive, not clear. The armor I am currently building is styrene based and I would love to find a white (not off-white) glue that would fuse the pieces together. What are you using for your armor? Do you have any suggestions for a white glue that would fuse the armor pieces? I really don't want to glue and then try to paint the glued areas white. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nice-biscuit Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 You could try this site for some ideas. 3M do a nice range and with their gun system you can be accurate http://secure.silmid.com:80/ENG/catalogue/...ral%20Adhesives Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolf Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 I use the E6000 glue, it works like a dream. Get soild, over 24 hours. So you can´t, get it apart again. You can then, just take off the extra glue by hand. But its better if you add some tape, beside the stripes. And then, just take the tape off whit the extra glue on. If the E6000 touch the armor, it can kill the glossy layer on the plastic. Good luck in the progress, whit the suit buddy . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutchy Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 I use an industrial glue that our mechanincs use in the field connecting pvc joints. It is from the brand Griffon, type T-88. It can withstand enormous stresses and strains, so once glued and hardened out, within a few minutes, it's solid as a rock. Easy to apply with the built in small brush that is attached to the lid, just sand the to glue areas slightly, apply the glue and slight pressure and it's done.. Here you can see it: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoCKo Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 E-6000 is the best IMO! strong but still not too rigid... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-443 Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 E-6000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve12201 Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 E-6000 has been the best for withstanding the desert heat....even better than ABS glue. Mesa Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firebladejedi Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 While putting my TE2 together i have been using 1 hour epoxy to glue a strip inside the parts to quickly hold them together and then i have been using E-6000 on the ouside joining strips. The E-6000 dries clear but most other glues i have tried on other armour suits has always dried yellow, not white so i dont know what to suggest. Adhesives like no more nails is available in white and will be very strong but i am not sure wether i would use that on my armour... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Andrews Posted March 8, 2009 Author Share Posted March 8, 2009 While putting my TE2 together i have been using 1 hour epoxy to glue a strip inside the parts to quickly hold them together and then i have been using E-6000 on the ouside joining strips. The E-6000 dries clear but most other glues i have tried on other armour suits has always dried yellow, not white so i dont know what to suggest. Adhesives like no more nails is available in white and will be very strong but i am not sure wether i would use that on my armour... Yup, that is the problem I am having... Seems that E-6000 is the standard and a very good choice but I want something that is white as it seems that the original was white. I am running into the same problem of most epoxys being an offwhite instead of a true white. The search continues! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Andrews Posted March 8, 2009 Author Share Posted March 8, 2009 I use an industrial glue that our mechanincs use in the field connecting pvc joints. It is from the brand Griffon, type T-88. It can withstand enormous stresses and strains, so once glued and hardened out, within a few minutes, it's solid as a rock. Easy to apply with the built in small brush that is attached to the lid, just sand the to glue areas slightly, apply the glue and slight pressure and it's done.. Here you can see it: Is this white, or clear? I am assuming if it is like most PVC cement, it is clear... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Andrews Posted March 8, 2009 Author Share Posted March 8, 2009 I use the E6000 glue, it works like a dream. Get soild, over 24 hours. So you can´t, get it apart again. You can then, just take off the extra glue by hand. But its better if you add some tape, beside the stripes. And then, just take the tape off whit the extra glue on. If the E6000 touch the armor, it can kill the glossy layer on the plastic. Good luck in the progress, whit the suit buddy . Believe it or not, I am actually hoping the glue I find can be brushed on and I purposefully plan to "paint outside the lines" so some of the glue is visible on the armor along either side of the strips. It seems very clear in a number of pics that there was some serious sloppiness going on with the gluing of the strips and there is glue residue all over... everyone is going to think a 4 year old put my armor together!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoCKo Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 you could try to mix some white additive with E-6000?! i glued some parts in my proproom using E-6000 right after i sanded one my older fibreglass helmets and the dust intermingled with the glue. well actually the glued parts looked completly messed up but only because the dust had this yellowish/brownish color. nevertheless the glue was still strong like it used to be before... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scootch Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 There is a white ABS glue, it appears milky white at first but dries a bit whiter. It can be found at most plumbing wholesalers. Since ABS is a form of styrene, it should work. It actually "welds" the plastic so it could warp it if used in liberal quantities. I used E-6000 on my last suit like so: I buttered the pieces with a thin film of the stuff, then assembled. I allowed it to cure about 48 hours, went back and removed any residual E-6000 by running my razor knife in the seam. It worked fine. I went back and caulked the seams with Tub and Tile siliconized caulking before painting. I think it's important to remember if you use E-6000 and it does knock a bit of gloss off of an area, it's getting weathered over anyway, the ten foot rule is helpful here. I freak out on an individual piece of armor when I do something lame, but I stand back about 8 feet and it's virtually invisible. Also, gloss can be restored by polishing and waxing with automotive products. So it's more about choosing the material you're most comfortable with using, then executing a little patience to finish the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pappy Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 ................and there is glue residue all over.. Phheeewwww....so im accurate then Oh and devcon on my part,its not clear but yelowish clear. But then again devcon is a new product( ) so they definitely dont use it at the time. I wonder whats the popular product at the time,had John Mollo(or anyone) mentioned this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD9323 Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 E-6000 comes in white: http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=129& Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoCKo Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 WOW, i didn´t know that... nice find! unfortunatly i will have to buy another bunch of E-6000 tubes now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolf Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 WOW, i didn´t know that... nice find! unfortunatly i will have to buy another bunch of E-6000 tubes now... ****, me too. I got around 4 big tubes here . Thanks for the link bro . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-743 Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 Good idea for a thread, I have been trying to decide which adhesive I want to use on my new kit as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutchy Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 Is this white, or clear? I am assuming if it is like most PVC cement, it is clear... This one clear Art. But you have to be careful, don't use too much. because it will and can eat your armor away. One other thing, it dissolves a small amount of the to glue parts and gets the colour of those parts.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-J Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 For ABS kits I have always used the old ABS shavings in acetone trick. Make it up a week before hand and let it sit. It does work on HIPs but needs to be thicker. Need to work quick as it dries very quickly. Advantage is it is whatever colour your kit is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Andrews Posted March 10, 2009 Author Share Posted March 10, 2009 E-6000 comes in white: http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=129& OOOOOHHHHHHHH!!!! NICE!!!! Now, is E-6000 simply an adhesive or does it actually melt and bond the two pieces together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Andrews Posted March 10, 2009 Author Share Posted March 10, 2009 For ABS kits I have always used the old ABS shavings in acetone trick. Make it up a week before hand and let it sit. It does work on HIPs but needs to be thicker. Need to work quick as it dries very quickly. Advantage is it is whatever colour your kit is I have never heard of this method, but have a lot of scrap styrene laying around! I would love to hear more about it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-J Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 It's very easy. Cut the scrap ABS up with tin snips as small as possible - bigger pieces just take longer to disslove. Drop them into a sealable container - I use an old metal acetone tin (don't use plastic , or glass - for some reason it doesn't keep as well). Cover with just enough acetone, and let it sit for a few days. Keep an eye on it and top up with acetone if it gets too thick. You can use it at just about any consistency, but works best for glueing armour when it is runny but is a solid colour. If it's needed for filling holes or cracks, let it get a little thicker. Keep adding ABS and acetone as you need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD9323 Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 OOOOOHHHHHHHH!!!! NICE!!!! Now, is E-6000 simply an adhesive or does it actually melt and bond the two pieces together? It's an adhesive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scootch Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 E-6000 is the bomb. We use it in plumbing for tie seal and no hub cast iron where older pipe outside diameters are not the same diameter as newer pipe. It is flexible too so it works great on clamshelled armor pieces which are placed under stress. I've also found it cleans up easily with acetone from most surfaces. I also use it to attach my strapping system to my armor. I's inexpensive too, and avaialable darn near everywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.