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Davin Helmet 1 - Long-time project


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Naaaah, I don’t think so! I only have trooped once on a 501st meeting and once to the premiere of Episode 1.

While I really enjoyed all those kids eyes around I decided to stay with just collecting.

But from time to time I will come to bigger events to have a chat with fellow Star Wars enthusiasts.

Btw. It’s more than overdue that the Celebration Europe gets back to good old Germany, right?!?   :peace:

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On 9/3/2019 at 9:25 PM, RoCKo said:

For the HDPE/PP base coat I used Rust-oleum Painters Touch Fossil.

For the white top coat I used Dupli Color Aerosol Art 9010.


As far as i could find out both are acrylic spray paints, so I have no idea what actually happened.

I did a few strokes before this final coat and it already had these results, so I sanded these areas down and gave it another try with the results

Weather was good, around 25‘ C, humidity ok...

I’m kinda lost here...???     :confused:

Like I wrote I really like how the rest turned out, it just those frakking crinkles...

Hey mate...as I can see on the pics, it's the different paint material ...better says the material from different manufacturers is the problem. Always stay with one manufacturer. And the next tip is...Do not paint too "full"...it's a bit tricky to explain this in english :confused:

I mean, if you paint the laque material too much in one working process, then arise such wrinkle formations.

Please also make sure that the first paint material is well dried.

Sry mate...I can't better explain this :pinch:

....something like that can have different factors....of these three factors may have been one of them.

A question ...why did you not repaint the khaki paint?
Btw...good choice with the Davin Felth helmet...I like this too. My Sandtrooper is also the Desert Sergeant- Version :peace:

Here's mine--->>


Furthermore much fun with your build of your costume :duim:


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Thanks Daniel, I assume you’re correct with your different manufactures theory! 
After all I’m glad it worked out in the end!

I will keep that in mind with my next helmet, still one more white ABS helmet in storage before finally reaching out for the HDPE helmets.


Btw. Don’t worry about your english, mate! Since we’re both no native speakers it’s absolutely no problem...   :pint1:

Our English is still better than their German!  :thumbsup:



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13 hours ago, RoCKo said:

Btw. Don’t worry about your english, mate! Since we’re both no native speakers it’s absolutely no problem...   :pint1:

Our English is still better than their German!  :thumbsup:



Loooool...I didn't see that you're a german kraut too  :lol::lol::lol:

If I have to explain something in the details, I have a little bit problems with the language :dry: ...and that's annoying.

But it can only get better....I'll keep practicing :happy:

Cheers, mate.




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  • 2 months later...

Ok, it should be time for some updates actually but I have been a little sidetracked (actually still to worried handpainting the details) with other projects...

But I have finished the screenaccurate strapping for my Gino armor since. I was soooo tempted to build this armor 100% correct with all Neweys but I decided to keep this uberaccurate kit for my future planed RS build, so I stored it again!

Anyway, I will start another thread when finished but wanted to show the current state of the armor on a mannequin bust. Except for the shin strapping the legs are also finished but I don’t have a free full-size mannequin.





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Thanks guys, I really appreciate it!

I’m not really happy with the shoulder bells which are significant smaller than the screenused. The TE2 as well as the Gino bells, which came from the same source. That makes it almost impossible to Have the gap between shoulder bell and chest armor as small as seen on screen!
That’s why I changed my mind about the Gino armor being my last suit to build.

There will be a RS suit whenever I have some spare money!  (which might take some years when I take my waiting time for current projects as a reference...)   :whistling:
(Thats unless EFX will have their armor available made with the correct plastics in kit form, which isn’t ever going to happen imho)


Both bust were a lucky evilbay buy. One has arms that can be rotated in elbow and shoulder, which was completely uncommon for me,  The other came with static arms but I since changed those with fully poseable arms from another mannequin I had in storage for a life size Tusken.

It has always been intention to have displays in lifelike poses instead of the mostly kinda feminine looking poses most male mannequins have. We spend so much money to get a movie accurate costume and ruin the overall look when displayed with a cheap mannequin!

But that is just me....it might be due to the fact that I don’t troop but only display my stuff!


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For those interested in nice poseable/bendable display mannequins (Europe) and willing to spend some more money.

These are some links I considered for the life size Gino TD...


Best Mannequins - Belgium

Gruppocorso - Netherlands

Larosaitaly - Italian

and a child sized mannequin in correct height for a Jawa

Tradelines - UK

where I bought my mannequin (thanks to Alison & Jude from Clothears) for the upcoming new life size  Jawa.
Very nice support team at Tradelines having the mannequin shipped for a affordable price. I spend less than 100€ including s/h.


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  • 1 month later...

Again, minor updates to my TK bust, sadly time is too limited to go on with the Davin helmet atm...


First I finished the backside by adding a accurate Thermal Detonator by TM since I bought the TE2 armor in TD specification back then.


added some white duct tape on areas as can be seen in ANH... (yeah, I know, nerdish but I love those minor details)



received the missing ab plates from TM. (Thanks again, Paul!)
Since the armor parts where painted with spray paint I also had to paint these before applying the blue and grey., Additionally I made some very small modifications to the buttons... 



actually I was again captured but those minor details, so I first painted all buttons black like on the screenused plates before I finally added blue and grey. I might add a little more wear and tear later on...




Btw. I also ordered a pair of ESB hand plates, that way I can switch to ESB mode when I’m finished with the ESB helmet...    :whistling:

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Hey Paul, thanks, thanks for chiming in, I really appreciate all your input!

Actually I thought the same and judging by your picture I can clearly see it for the grey buttons but I’m still unsure with the blues. 


Don’t get me wrong your ow how much I envy you (in a good way) for all your knowledge and skills but I haven’t seen any reference picture to convince me yet.

Are you sure or is it just your guess?

(I’m a little afraid of the answer, I can already see me repaint it again...  :rolleyes:)

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Hey Paul, thanks again! It looks like I have to do the repaint now.

When you say, the correct matt blue paint, do you mean the original blue was matt and only look glossy after they repainted it?
I always wondered why it looked so much more glossy as on the helmet tube stripes.


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Thanks for clarification, Paul! Do you use a custom paint for the tube stripes or just acrylic Humbrol?

I still hate painting these minor details as I don’t have a steady hand for straight lines or even better curves. What kind of brush do you use for example the black stripes on the trapezoids on the helmet or any other fine outlines?!?

Sorry for asking all that stuff but who knows more about all these kinda things???   :salute:


How about the blue buttons on the belly plates?
Originally matt blue and only appear glossy after the prop department did some repainting?

At least I can see glossy buttons on some belly plates, like on my reference picture, or am I mistaking?

Forgive me as I am a little colorblind which can be a pain in the a... when doing comparisons!

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I use Humbrol #221 on my screen accurate builds but use #14 for most of the 501st builds.

A decent modelling paint brush with long, thin hairs are best for the pin stripes and tube stripes. I can check to see which size I use but as with most brushes I buy, I usually trim them down a bit.

All the armour in the LFL archives will have been touched up at some point in time. They would have been used on many occasions in the late 70's/early 80's and repairs and repainting would have done to the armour. You can see on some of the original helmets that are in the archives that they have the paint touched up, and they would have done the same thing with the buttons too.

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That’s great info, Paul! I will try #221 on my next helmet! Thanks again! (Again and again, mate!)

I just had a quick look for that paint. Is it enamel or acrylic? It looks like Humbrol changes their paints from time to time so that #221 enamel is currently unavailable in Germany and was replaced with RC404 (acrylic). 
But I found a Italian supplier still offering #221 enamel if this is the correct paint...

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You're welcome :duim:

I use enamel paints. I'm not sure how well acrylic paint holds up. I believe it is water-based and enamel is oil-based, so the acrylic would seem a weaker paint to me, but I have never used them so I cannot comment on how durable acrylic paint is.

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Cheers, Paul! I just bought a tin of #221 from Italy! 

I will think about repainting my ab buttons once more, maybe I’d go for the new color then...

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