Too Much Garlic Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 I have an RS kit. Have trimmed it partly. Not looking forward to the ears as I usually screw up those and there aren't any clear lines indicating where they really should be trimmed to, like it's faintly possible to see on the face and back piece. One thing however. I drilled out the rivet holes on the face and the back and assembled the piece, putting the brow trim on... but something's horribly wrong and I'm afraid I may have screwed up badly. There's a huge cap between the brow trim and the face - nearly 4-5 mm. I just don't understand, as I drilled the holes right in the center of the round markings on the two pieces. I HATE ASSEMBLING VAC-FORMED HELMETS... GRRRRRRRR. Should I make new holes slightly further back, ignoring the original placement of the holes, or what? Is that even possible? With fiberglass it would have been an easy fix - heck, it would probably have been a one-piece for the whole face and back, eliminating the whole "my crappy assembly skills" issue. I knew I should have opted for an assembled one, so at least I would have prevented mauling one of these kits with my trimming and assembly skills. Grr... what do I do... sell it for cheap to someone who'll know how to fix it and then buy an assembled version... I don't know. All I know is I hate trimming and assembling vac-formed helmets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick.black Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 That honestly doesnt look that bad. If you raise the brow a bit I reckon it would look fine. Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Too Much Garlic Posted July 26, 2012 Author Share Posted July 26, 2012 I can stick my finger in between the pieces no problem and run it all the way across, so it's bad. I just don't understand why as I made the assembly where it supposedly should, from what I've been able to see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murdock Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 I usually dont use the dimples for the rivets and just adjust the helmet to where it should be after my first helmet. Im assuming the plastic stretches a bit from the original mold so the holes are off somewhat on some of them. My sandy bucket holes were off so I moved it to where the gap went away. It was close to the gap you have on yours. The ear plates covered the mistakes and I just put some glue in the holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inglorious trooper Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 hey carston, dont be disheartened mate! i did the same as you and then had to redrill the holes further back aswell, ive heard that the holes that are shown are not really the best place but need to be further back, as has just been said the ears will cover it! as for the ears dont worry about a slight gap,mine have and they look fine! good luck!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Too Much Garlic Posted July 26, 2012 Author Share Posted July 26, 2012 Well, glad to hear your suggestions on doing new holes slightly furhter back. I did it just now before coming back to read those, thinking that it couldn't hurt at this point. Was just worried I had to do the new holes too far back, so the ears don't cover the further forward holes. It's not exactly tight, but it is okay if I do the higher brow version, then the gap is barely seen. Can't get it done flush now, as the new holes prevent that. Could maybe have gone back an extra mm on one side, but maybe it gets tighter when screwing on the ears? Hopefully it won't pull the gap wider. ****... I hate vac-formed pieces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murdock Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 Not to worry about it being a little wonky. The screen helmets have gaps in the ears anyways so it will make it more screen accurate. Thats a positive way to look at it anyways, unless you wanted the ideal helmet look. It looks pretty good from what can be told from the pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Too Much Garlic Posted July 26, 2012 Author Share Posted July 26, 2012 Yeah, maybe I'm just too used to things being neat and tight and fiberglass. LOL. I have some leftover pieces of ABS from trimming I can glue onto the inside of the face in case I need to take the hole back another 1-2 mm on his left side to make it flush before putting the ears on. However, putting the ears on will certainly stop the piece from feeling so flimsy. I remember that from the AP helmet I had - even though I screwed up those ears all to **** when trying to trim them a bit more accurate than they were... it still was a much more sturdy helmet with the ears on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Too Much Garlic Posted July 27, 2012 Author Share Posted July 27, 2012 So, in order to prevent doing more mistakes, do anyone have some pointers on trimming the ears. When doing the AP ears a few years back I cut off too much but it was **** difficult trimming them and getting clean lines instead of ragged. Over the years I gathered the info that it was best to trim with a knife or a pair of scissors just short of the actual trimming line and then sand the rest. But... there's no indication where to trim to on the RSProps ears from what I can see and I'm just a little peeved to really dig in and end up screwing things up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trooper1 Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 Your from Denmark? How close are you to Rolf? Just an idea. I could fix them if you were here, but it's hard to put in writing the tip to getting these flush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Too Much Garlic Posted July 27, 2012 Author Share Posted July 27, 2012 Yeah, had the thought... but then again... too much hassle. I'm having trouble figuring out how to trim the round part, as I've been told that the cut isn't straight across in an even width when viewing them from the top, but more angled, so that it is wider at one end (part meeting face) than at the other (part meeting back) - is that correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iconoclasta_88 Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 Well... I see there is no problem at all, it is just a matter of how you are fitting it. Ill explain: The wholes are probably based on a bucket that has a higher brow (that or a gap between the forehead and the brow). So if you followed those wholes or marks, it will look as the original. And, if it was made after a high brow helmet and you are trying to make a low brow one, it can be expected to have that gap. Solution, in a practical way (might not be for the perfection idealist out there), and considering that you have only added two screws to your bucket, just grab the cap and back, and pull the face down, usingthe two screws as axis. This will make it more high brow, and will bring the faceplate closer to the cap and back in the forehead area. Is that clear enough? Cant find how to explain it in an easier way Now, if that doesnt work, consider drilling new holes. Just remember it is not a perfect recipie, there is a lot of trial and error. But you know that. Even with this more accurate kit, the wholes and marks might not be what you want to follow, but your own research, references and experience. If you follow something like MIke's TD4510 video tutorials technique, take in consideration that you must place the face and the cap and back just where you want it to be, cause when you drill and rivet or add screws, that is the face you are going to get. http://trooperbay.com/videos/videos-2/ Hope it helps. Saludos Juan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iconoclasta_88 Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 Grr... what do I do... sell it for cheap to someone who'll know how to fix it and then buy an assembled version... There is really no need to go to that extreme, But if you REALLY hate vaccu-formed helmets and want to get rid of this for cheap... I would take it! Just saying... Saludos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scootch Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 There was a space in many of the movie lids just as you are describing. It all comes down to personal preference. Drilling new holes is not a bad thing. Congrats on the RS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Too Much Garlic Posted July 29, 2012 Author Share Posted July 29, 2012 I took the plunge of doing the hole a additional tad bit further back on one side when I'd disassembled the helmet anyway when filing the eyes to ESB spec. Looking better. Here it is next to my TE RotJ fiberglass helmet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inglorious trooper Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 from what i can see it looks fine! i actually messed up my first set of ears and sent for another pair,rob now has a guidline to cut on! the only advice i can give be prepared for patience on the day you do them,small cuts and keep offering them up to your lid!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyBoy Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 id be happy to take it off your hands as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inglorious trooper Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 haha you guys,taking advantage of someones lack of patience,terrible!!! buuuuut if you are thinking of selling,just kidding,keep at it bro! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarthChridan Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 Sry Carsten... but I see nothing bad on this helmet...it's all right and this little space is not bad as well,,,it's rather movie accurate This Space comes from the bump at the faceplate---> this bump provides the support of the dome...well, some space between the dome and faceplate can not be avoided. However, it is possible to reduce this space...... In your position I would not use the 'indicated' holes from the original helmet ...then it doesn't fit. Use other boreholes---> Drill new holes and do it again as Juan it showed you. Then you get this result---> I hope I helped you a little BTW...congrats to this beauty of props Cheers, Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Too Much Garlic Posted July 29, 2012 Author Share Posted July 29, 2012 Sry Carsten... but I see nothing bad on this helmet...it's all right and this little space is not bad as well,,,it's rather movie accurate This Space comes from the bump at the faceplate---> this bump provides the support of the dome...well, some space between the dome and faceplate can not be avoided. Hi Dan and no, that piece didn't even touch the back and cap at the front either. It is simply caused by the plastic retracting when cooling after being formed, if not supported. It's the only thing that can explain why the original holes doesn't fit. However, this is not meant as a complaint or a negative comment about the product as I think it's super awesome and the guys at RSProps are real gentlemen who really care about their customers, as evidenced by me being contacted by mail by Rob when he heard about my issue. Now THAT's being awesome. I will eventually crack that mystery conundrum called the ears without hopefully losing my mind first, but I know I can always just order an already trimmed set from RSProps if I screw up. LOL. Anyway, always loved the ESB look, so that's how mine will be painted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarthChridan Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 Ok, if this bump not touch the back' n cap...then you can change the positions through the drill of the new holes...if you want Otherwise...you can leave it. Have fun with your further process of the build Cheers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Too Much Garlic Posted July 29, 2012 Author Share Posted July 29, 2012 Well, I did make new holes and now it touches, but logically it should touch when using the authentic holes, as it does on the original. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarthChridan Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 Well, I did make new holes and now it touches, but logically it should touch when using the authentic holes, as it does on the original.Fine... show us the pics of the new result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyBoy Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 Glad you made it work man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Too Much Garlic Posted July 29, 2012 Author Share Posted July 29, 2012 Fine... show us the pics of the new result. I did. Post 6 & 15. .) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.