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------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- iconoclasta_88, That is a fantastic "what someone has actually done" tip and is exactly what I was looking for when I started this thread. Thanks.

Yes, I totally agree. If you are going for SWAT you are emulating a specific Sandtrooper that is seen on screen. That is why a generic question of what needs to be changed on a specific set of armor kit to potentially get SWAT can't be completely answered without first knowing which Sandtrooper one is trying to emulate. Some of the items that I have pointed out on my ATA kit, including the missing ab plate details in another post maybe not absolutely required for SWAT, but are items that I know are not accurate when compared to the actual screened used armor. Making any of the modifications is really an individual choice. They won't hurt if someone is trying to get SWAT, but should not be done solely to achieve SWAT since some of the mods maybe hidden or were never seen on a specific Sandtrooper that someone is trying to do. That was not my intention, only to point out items that I saw were not as accurate on my ATA kit and what I was going to modify to make it more like the actual screen used armor.

I'm slowly building a Sandtrooper using an ATA armor kit. For those that like super accuracy (me being one of them) or are potentially going for SWAT here on th MEPD or Centurion level on the FISD, I wanted to share a few mods using a Sealing Iron that I did on my ATA armor kit kidney and left armor piece. Here is an image of my sealing iron. With it, you can make new return edges or cover strip edges. You can purchase one at any Hobby Shop that sells Remote Control Cars or Airplanes. Modification #1: The actual TK and TD armor kidney plate armor had square notches on them. Unfortunately, the ATA armor kits do not have them, so out came my lexan scissors and the sealing iron. I used a ruler and pencil to mark the correct dimensions of the square notch first. I then used my lexan scissors to cut the notch out a few mm (8 to 10mm) from the actual pencil line to allow for the new return edge. I then used the sealing iron to melt and fold the ABS to create a new return edge of the square notch cutout. Finally, I trimmed and sanded the edges.Here are images of my kidney plate before and after modifying: Mod #2. The TKs and TDs top left leg armor are different then the right leg armor in that they have a deep indentation/notch on them. You can see the indentation in the following reference image that I borrowed from another post: ATA armor kits do not have this shape, so I reshaped mine to be more screen accurate. Here are some images of my modification using the same technique as the kidney plate mods. Before: Marking with Pencil general new shape: After:

Happy New Year!

Ha Ha. That is awesome.

I'm assuming if one is trying to go for SWAT, it would be necessary since we know the Sandtroopers had them. I started this thread to see if anyone has specifically made the two ab plate mods (e.g. circular bump and notch indentation) and if they were successful with heating up something metal and creating the missing details. Similar to you, I'm a little hesitant and don't want to ruin my ab plate.

--------------------------------------------------------------- But do you have any idea of the flange size of the white head rivet? You can get rivets in different flange head sizes. The rivets I already have seem to have flange heads that look too small (~ 6mm).

I have an ATA ab plate, which is missing the circular protruding detail and the thin notch indentation on the bottom rectangle that has the 3 circles (Please see below images:) I'm building my Sandtrooper for potential SWAT application, so I was wondering if anyone has ever tried to physically modify their ab plate by heating up a washer and pressing it from the back side to create the circular protrusion? I've seen this technique for creating TK belt rivet covers, but there is really less risk for TKs, since it is done on a piece of scrap ABS versus the actual armor. I'm a little worried about ruining my ab plate, so I wanted to see if others have successfully done it. Or should I not take the risk and just paint a washer white and glue it onto the ab plate? I'm also a little hesitant on doing that, since I think it won't look very good, even after weathering. Thoughts? The same with creating the indentation feature by heating up something metal and pressing it against the spot to create the indentation. What have others done? Thanks in advance.

Vince, Congrats.

Gamerwitz, Don't get discouraged. It's a pretty busy time of the year with the Winter Holiday/New Years coming up, which is probably why you haven't received a reply yet from the armor vendors. Just be patience and I'm sure you will get a response soon. As for going into debt, welcome to the club... Just kidding. This hobby can get pretty expensive, but it really depends on which costume you are doing, how much you are going to try to create yourself (e.g. neckseal, canvas built, etc.) and your desired time frame to actually complete it. I always recommend new members to read all the info they can at the different detachments that specializes on their costume and to take their time. If you are doing a Sandtrooper, MEPD is a must, but you may also want to register on the FISD http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/, which has a lot of Work In Progress', Tutorials, and helpful info on building "Stormtrooper" type armor and helmet kits. You might also want to contact your local GML, who can provide more helpful info (e.g. suggestion of local members that can personally help you and/or upcoming armor/blaster parties). Hopefully this was somewhat helpful and best of luck.

Bluey, Congrats on the new addition to your family.

I believe most TK armor makers (e.g. ATA, TM, etc.) offer Sandtrooper Diamond Sniper Knee Plates. Just send them a message. You can also purchase one from trooperbay. Best of luck.

Biggs Darklighter and they insinuate that he somehow survived the first death star attack.

PVC is too heavy to use on your backpack. Most folks use the 2" diameter black ABS piping that is available at some Lowes and most Menards in the USA. None of the Lowes in my area had it, but my local Menards had plenty. http://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/pipe-tubing-fittings/pipe/abs-pipes/schedule-40-cellular-core-abs-dwv-pipe-2x5/p-1729862-c-8562.htm

Happy Thanksgiving!

Someone (Scott M. ) on the FISD site is selling his Doopydoo E-11 kit. I also have a few OG members that sell E-11 kits and mods. Let me know and I'll PM you their info.

Thanks for the clarification.

Congrats on the new addition to your family.

When you reference active member, do you mean a 501st member with an approved TD on MEPD? Just wondering, since my TD isn't approved yet, but is almost complete.

Someone responded to your question before: http://forum.mepd.net/index.php?showtopic=13041

TK2311, No problems. For higher level accuracy: 8 mm split rivets are used to connect the ab and kidney plate on the left side. They are also used on the cod armor piece, so a total of 7 split rivets; 6 for the ab/kidney plate and 1 for the cod piece. The right thigh ammo pack uses two 7.4mm cap rivets.

What is also cool is that the pad backing comes in different sizes; 5" and 6" diameter to match the different Tupperware Lids. I purchased mine at Menard's in the US a while ago and was going to post a WIP thread, but wanted to file down the raised lettering in the back and paint it black first. Anyways, here is my 6" diameter pad backing with my larger Tupperware lid:

Does anyone have a recommendation for the sniper knee piece depth? What is the depth length that most folks are trimming to? Thanks in advance.

Everyone, Happy Holidays and have a fantastic New Year. This is the year that I will finally complete my Sandy

That is so cool looking. Since the Tie Fighter Pilot Helmet also uses the TK faceplate, they created a very cool looking Tie Fighter version that can be seen in a For Sale Thread on the main 501st forums.