TK9787 Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 What have you guys used to attach it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grit Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 I used arildite and o clap it I used electric tape http://www.flickr.com/photos/47873528@N03/5636092966/in/set-72157626487645878/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCRIBBLER Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 My trusty E-6000 with electrical or duct tape to keep that bad boy in place! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandatrooper Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 I sand the entire tube, and the underside of the com panel, then wash and dry everything. Then i place com panel on the tube in position, trace and outline. Then use masking tape to mask a rectangle about 1/4" smaller than the pencil line. Then I paint the mortar tube satin black. When its dry peel the tape off, and glue the panel on with E6000 on both sides and let it tack up, then join and clamp. Its always better to have plastic on plastic contact. Never glue to paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK9787 Posted May 5, 2011 Author Share Posted May 5, 2011 Alright, I've got some epoxy. I will give it a try in a bit.I figure I will leave a little bit of tape overlapping underneath the panel. That way I can somewhat prevent any from getting where it shouldn't be. Good idea or no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandatrooper Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 Just spread the glue about 3/8" from the edge. It will ooze up to the edge but should stay under the con panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyBoy Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 All great ideas... The original way had the pad glued on and then the tube painted (by hand) if I'm not mistaken. If your using a black tube already any standard heavy weight adhesive will work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quartermaster Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 I cut two 1" wide strips of heavy duty double sided tape slightly shorter in length than the control pad. Holds the pad in place great and if the tube ever gets damaged for some reason, the pad can be removed and re-installed on a new mortar tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FIVE Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 I cut the tube in half length wise then used an open kiln to heat both it and the control panel until they started to warp. I then put the control panel onto the half of the heated tube. Since they're both sort of "melty" they will adhere to one another brilliantly. I let that "sit" for 2 months then I drill 9 holes on each of the halves of the mortar tube along the edges and insert pegs into one side using simple super glue gel. I let that dry for a few seconds, then attach the two halves back together by glueing the pegs into the holes on the other side using the same super glue gel. To finish off and hide the seam on the mortar tube I cover the whole thing with Bondo, control panel and all. That way it's really "even" looking. One that's dry I sand it down to a very fine wet sand paper and then paint the whole thing black. When the black paint is dry I finish it off by painting the control panel white again. Just kidding. I use E-6000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ground pounder Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 I cut the tube in half length wise then used an open kiln to heat both it and the control panel until they started to warp. I then put the control panel onto the half of the heated tube. Since they're both sort of "melty" they will adhere to one another brilliantly. I let that "sit" for 2 months then I drill 9 holes on each of the halves of the mortar tube along the edges and insert pegs into one side using simple super glue gel. I let that dry for a few seconds, then attach the two halves back together by glueing the pegs into the holes on the other side using the same super glue gel. To finish off and hide the seam on the mortar tube I cover the whole thing with Bondo, control panel and all. That way it's really "even" looking. One that's dry I sand it down to a very fine wet sand paper and then paint the whole thing black. When the black paint is dry I finish it off by painting the control panel white again. Just kidding. I use E-6000 good one. I used E6000 as well. What doesn't E6000 stick to????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyBoy Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 I cut the tube in half length wise then used an open kiln to heat both it and the control panel until they started to warp. I then put the control panel onto the half of the heated tube. Since they're both sort of "melty" they will adhere to one another brilliantly. I let that "sit" for 2 months then I drill 9 holes on each of the halves of the mortar tube along the edges and insert pegs into one side using simple super glue gel. I let that dry for a few seconds, then attach the two halves back together by glueing the pegs into the holes on the other side using the same super glue gel. To finish off and hide the seam on the mortar tube I cover the whole thing with Bondo, control panel and all. That way it's really "even" looking. One that's dry I sand it down to a very fine wet sand paper and then paint the whole thing black. When the black paint is dry I finish it off by painting the control panel white again. Just kidding. I use E-6000 Seriously just laughed out loud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FIVE Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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