Scootch Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share Posted January 21, 2011 Copy that guys, yes the neck trim should be "S" type. The Astro-tex just makes a nice finish so I use it too. The Chipper will be back with the "S" trim, he's coming up ESB. He has been made from parts I threw away due to bad pulls and bad plastic. If you look you can see the eyes area are paper thin and split. The first handful of faceplate pulls always have troubles until the forming buck gets warmed up, I now pre-heat it and this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iconoclasta_88 Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 Very cool tutorial. And it explains and gives simple solutions to issues Im sure lots of us have. Thx you bro for sharing this!! It is amazing how everybody has different techniques and tricks when assembling. I have build probably a dozen buckets, and have a few tricks myself, but this gave me a very different approach to some issues I had! It will come in handy in my next build for sure! Thx Scootch!! Saludos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolf Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 Beautiful bucket bro. I have seen many of your helmets over time, and you have great!!! skills putting these baby´s together. Perfectly done all the way. A+ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trooper1 Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 WOOOAAA! So many magnets? Which ones did you use? I am not sure what to buy. Not a mag i nate coneeeeesoorreee. www.kjmagnetics.com/categories.asp Oh to many to choose from.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeR Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Awesome Scotty. Thanks for sharing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scootch Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 LOL! Joe are you gonna do an SE Sandy bro??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir david Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 Some faceplate reflection... Many times there is webbing at the lower back of the tubes. The thermoformer (guy) will usually fold these in on themselves while the plastic is still plyable. If your lid has these webs glue the inside seam of the web. Later during the build you can sand the web down. Generally these will not be seen in the finished product. The mic tip wells will always be thin. There are many remedies for this too, we will cover one simple fix in our build. Trimming the faceplate; Beginning with the teeth we use a small pen-knife to cut the back of the teeth openings out. All we want is the back. Now flip the faceplate over to reveal this: Holding the knife accordingly we can slice away the excess of each tooth to make a nice opening which will ensure a very pronounced tooth. Locate the mold lines on the eye ports Score the mold lines along the eye ports, score gently several times until the pen-knife's blade slips through. Take your time here and remove slightly less material than you intend to. Once the ports are opened up they are easy to shave or sand to the desired end result. Next up the "Cap'n'back" also known as the "dome". When trimming the cap'n'back we always like to leave the ridge from the mold line on the helmet. This we do so we can come back after assembly and "fine tune" everything with a final trimming if necessary. It is important NOT to have right angles in the trimming where the brow meets the com cover area. This must be rounded slightly to avoid potential cracking later. As you can see in the photo's I've colored the assembling holes in the cap'n'back. We really only use the middle one but this way it's easy to tell which that is. Drill this middle hole out with your 5/32" bit. this looks like the lid smally gave me! turned out ok in the end though! ..... reground plastic signs?????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir david Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 it is uber thin, but sharper details (with a little work! ) than some A.B.S lids iv'e worked on! brads was in a poor state when he gave it to me,but, i based it on the "move along" lid,detail wise,and it looks o.k now! te2 re-cast guys???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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