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Did I make more work for myself?


FryGuy
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Ok, so I wanted my suit to be nice and shiny before I weathered it, so I painted my HIPS with a coat of rustoleum gloss white.

I am at the point where I am ready to start the weathering using the technique here- http://forum.mepd.net/index.php?showtopic=7290

Everything works great until I do the "blot it off with a damp towel" step. When I do that, ALL of the paint comes off and the armor is shiny again.

Do I need to sand my paint before weathering? Has anyone else had this problem?

Thanks

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You need to either:

- make sure you are using water based acrylic (higher quality is better)

- leave the paint on longer to dry, before you wipe it off (test this on the backside of your shins or some place inconspicuous first)

- your cloth should not be wet, just slightly damp. Try and wring out ALL the water, and use a dry towel to dry the wet one off.

- DON'T sand the paint with coarse sandpaper. If you do, when you weather it, all these deep lines will show up. If you need to roughen up the surface at all (you shouldn't need to) use a fine texture scotch brite pad.

This weathering method works on painted surfaces. My weathering stuck fine on the painted areas of my helmet (traps, vents, etc.) even though I didn't paint the armor white first. It's all about timing. :)

Good luck!

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Thanks. I tried all of that (I haven't done it on my actual armor, yet. I have some large scraps left over for just this purpose)

On the non-painted HIPS, it works like in the video. On the painted, it just clumps up and wiped clean when using a damp towel or a dry towel. I let it dry, like REALLY dry.

I think I will try to re-paint some of the gloss white with flat white and try this weathering technique again. I want to avoid sanding if possible.

I'll let you knkow how it works! Might be a neat effect with the combo of gloss and flat and different degrees of weathering.

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Everything Terry said is exactly what I do, could not say it better.

My CAP helmet that is what I use for my TD was painted when I got it. I was unhappy with the paint work on it so I re-did it. It was carefully sanded and then re-painted with the Rustoleum professional high gloss white, then weathered to where it is now ( you can see it in my sig) I used good quality acrylics with the methods Terry described above. If you are patient it should work well.

The armor should be shiny underneath imo, as they would have been before being dispatched to Mos Eisley :)

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I still think it might be the technique youre using when wiping it off or the paint not having time to bind to the plastic. One other thing i thought I'd mention is to make sure to wash the painted surface first. If it has any oil on it from your skin, the acrylic wont stick well. Try using a coarser towel / rag as well, might be that your knit cloth is too fine.

I weathered my T - 21 blaster with the same technique and its painted with gloss lacquer first just like your armor. Yes, the paint comes off much easier than non painted HIPS, but it does stick and it weathers just fine.

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On my kit I used the rustoleum gloss white appliance epoxy and the tube acrylic paints (not the little bottles) and let dry for about 20 mins and lightly rubbed with a dry cloth. repeated about 6 or 7 times til i reached the desired result. didnt have to use a scotchbrite or sandpaper. I applied paints using crumpled up paper...

if the paint you are using is just wiping clean off maybe try using on your actual armor. if it doesnt hold you can just clean it off easily enough.

id probably stay away from the layering of gloss and flat paint and focus more on the acrylics you are using

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Ok. Might be the paint I am using. I bought the cheap-o bottle at Wally Mart. I'll stop by the artsie-fartsie store tonight.

Tried it on one of my bicep pieces, and it did the same thing.

Wet cloth, damp cloth, and dry cloth all do the same thing. Using a washcloth, like in the video.

Probably my bad choice in acrylic.

I agree that it should be semi-shiny underneath, which is why I painted it gloss white in the first place. Thinking that I wanted my armor to look like it was new before I was sent to that dust bowl.

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I think it's your paint then. "Real" artists paints have much stronger binding agents in them than cheap ones. There's also tons of fillers in cheap paints.

Stick with known brands like Liquitex. That's what I used, the ones in the tubes.

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I agree that it should be semi-shiny underneath, which is why I painted it gloss white in the first place. Thinking that I wanted my armor to look like it was new before I was sent to that dust bowl.

definitely....Ive seen alot of armor that has no gloss to it at all and although it looks cool, it is not screen accurate. Its not like there were different factories this stuff came from :)

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I have had really good luck with Folk Art on mine, see them in the bottles at places like Michaels Crafts. It amazes me how well this stuff stays on the plastic after some time has passed lol.

Bought the good stuff and did a few pieces last night. Now THAT's what I am talking about! Works like a charm and I love how it looks so far...
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So...are you guys as fanatical as me? Every time I get a new piece done, I can't stop staring at it! Before I go to bed at night, I go into my prop room (formerly known as the dining room) and give it one last look. I went in to look at it 3 times this morning in the hour I had before I left for work!

Please tell me I'm not the only one!

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So...are you guys as fanatical as me? Every time I get a new piece done, I can't stop staring at it! Before I go to bed at night, I go into my prop room (formerly known as the dining room) and give it one last look. I went in to look at it 3 times this morning in the hour I had before I left for work!

Please tell me I'm not the only one!

Your not the only one :blink:.....I'm still trying to get mine done but having problems with the feet...and I still go look at the armor once a day :)

Diana (ShortTrooper )

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