dutchy Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 I think I'm getting there... I was thinking that I needed to have the pieces cut and fitted to me before I glued ANY of them. What I should do is glue the fronts, make them look good, and any size adjustments I need to make, make on the back side of the armor. The finishing strip is the small additional strip of ABS you use to cover the joint that makes it ANH accurate? If I didn't use that strip is the pro weld gonna leave the joints looking unfinished? Correct buddy, the strip goes on the "joints" to give it that accurate look and feel. But do sand the side that is going to get glued as well as the armor parts you are atttaching it onto for extra hold. The AP is one great armor to work with, had one too and enjoyed it a lot. Busted up my dremel on it but hey it was worth it. Here you see some of my early pics with my AP and untrimmed strips at the thighs.. Good luck with yours buddy!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zon Posted April 2, 2010 Author Share Posted April 2, 2010 When you guys are using the proweld do you use the little brush that comes in the container? I tried to use it and it's not holding anything together. I'm making sure the two pieces are touching and holding them together for about a minute. Is there better way to apply it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
godzilla Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 Is there better way to apply it? Nope, Thats the way. I use small spring clamps and painters tape to hold the strips firm against the armor. Use the brush that comes with the proweld and apply it along the sem where the strip meets the armor. If its not holding either the strip is not making contact with the armor or you not putting enough on. Let it stand for about 15 minutes to be sure. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zon Posted April 27, 2010 Author Share Posted April 27, 2010 Me and my impatience is gonna be my undoing. I gave up with the proweld and used E6000 for everything. It worked though because everything is glued and pretty much fitted!! Woo-Hoo!! The shoulder bells are too small and don't sit against my shoulders. I'm guessing I'm gonna have to cut them and use shims (which I don't really want to do) or heat them and reshape them so they're bigger. Any thoughts on the best way to do that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FIVE Posted April 27, 2010 Share Posted April 27, 2010 Me and my impatience is gonna be my undoing. I gave up with the proweld and used E6000 for everything. It worked though because everything is glued and pretty much fitted!! Woo-Hoo!! E-6000 is the way to go man! The shoulder bells are too small and don't sit against my shoulders. I'm guessing I'm gonna have to cut them and use shims (which I don't really want to do) or heat them and reshape them so they're bigger. Any thoughts on the best way to do that? Of course you've cut out all you can along the bottom 'ridge" of the bells? You'll want to do that first to make sure they won't fit still. Of course it's a fine line because you want the "lip" left on them too. I'd say reshape them before you shim them. Though you could always do a seamless shim... cut them, shim them, then sand it all down, fill it in with putty, sand it again and repaint them. That would be the BEST option I'd say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zon Posted April 28, 2010 Author Share Posted April 28, 2010 E-6000 is the way to go man! Of course you've cut out all you can along the bottom 'ridge" of the bells? You'll want to do that first to make sure they won't fit still. Of course it's a fine line because you want the "lip" left on them too. I'd say reshape them before you shim them. Though you could always do a seamless shim... cut them, shim them, then sand it all down, fill it in with putty, sand it again and repaint them. That would be the BEST option I'd say. Yeah, I've cut them as close as I'm comfortable. I have a very small return on the bottom but even if I got rid of that return they would still be too tight. I don't have a modeling iron (which I'm sure would be the best way to do it) but would any heat source work just to open them up a little? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zon Posted May 4, 2010 Author Share Posted May 4, 2010 Almost Done!! I ran across a couple tutorials that separated the ab piece from the cod piece to allow for more movement and some people that did the same with the butt and kidney piece. The ammo belt would hide this and probably allow for more movement. Is this something that you guys have done and does it work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandatrooper Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 Yes, most people separate the kidney and butt. I personally cut the cod from the abs using black elastic to join the parts. I find it is way more comfy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zon Posted May 4, 2010 Author Share Posted May 4, 2010 Thank you. I did find that my movement was limited the way I had it. I figured that would help but I wanted a first hand opinion before I cut anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zon Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 Hey all, I've got a couple details to work out and I was wondering if I could get some input on my progress so far. I still need: Knee Plate Ab Buttons Three buttons on ammo belt Canvas shoulder straps Boots ...and the glove I couldn't wear to take the picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FIVE Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 You're missing a glove... Oh... you caught that, okay cool. Seriously, looking good man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zon Posted May 6, 2010 Author Share Posted May 6, 2010 Thanks Nol! I'm gonna have to fit my helmet with bluetooth since I can't answer my stupid phone with gloves on. Quick question: To get approval does the ammo belt have to be canvas or can it be white elastic if it is weathered like the rest of the armor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zon Posted May 6, 2010 Author Share Posted May 6, 2010 Also, will this work for the ab buttons? They are not quite as big as some of the ones I've seen, but if they'll pass, one less thing to buy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FIVE Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 I'm gonna have to fit my helmet with bluetooth since I can't answer my stupid phone with gloves on. I think you'd be the first guy I know who answers his phone in armor. Quick question: To get approval does the ammo belt have to be canvas or can it be white elastic if it is weathered like the rest of the armor?It needs to be canvas... yes. Not elastic. The BEST stuff is TK-4205's vintage cargo strap. It's what I have and it's amazing! He just opened up ordering for it again... tell him I sent ya. (just for fun) Also, will this work for the ab buttons? They are not quite as big as some of the ones I've seen, but if they'll pass, one less thing to buy I think those will work. Let me measure and get back to you. TM has a set for like five bucks shipped!* As far as spending more money goes... it's not much, and if you're wanting to be awesome accurate every little piece makes it that much better. I got mine from him over a weekend too btw. Fast in other words. *Prices mentioned in threads may not reflect actual to-date prices or availability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zon Posted May 7, 2010 Author Share Posted May 7, 2010 Who am I kidding! I'm still trying to figure out how to wear my helmet without it hitting my nose all the freckin time let alone put bluetooth in it! I'm all for getting things as close to accurate as possible, but I'm even more for staying married . $5 here and $5 there doesn't seem like a lot until she sees seventeen fedex boxes show up that have knee plates, ab buttons, canvas straps, pauldrons, boots, blasters, etc. Now, this doesn't mean I won't eventually get all this stuff but spreading it out over time will probably serve me well. As always I appreciate the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iconoclasta_88 Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 Who am I kidding! I'm still trying to figure out how to wear my helmet without it hitting my nose all the freckin time let alone put bluetooth in it! I'm all for getting things as close to accurate as possible, but I'm even more for staying married . $5 here and $5 there doesn't seem like a lot until she sees seventeen fedex boxes show up that have knee plates, ab buttons, canvas straps, pauldrons, boots, blasters, etc. Now, this doesn't mean I won't eventually get all this stuff but spreading it out over time will probably serve me well. As always I appreciate the help! Have you tried to put an elastic strap from the ear screws and around your chin. Thats the way they hold in place the screen used helmets. I have it like that and works great. Also consider using thinner padding inside. And yep, small things for a couple of bucks seem to be a small expense, but at the end if you add up, this turns out to be an even more expensive hobby. But after 5 years of buying something every once in a while, it doesn't feel that bad if done in a planned way, and it is worth it. We all know what you are talking about. Saludos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FIVE Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 Have you tried to put an elastic strap from the ear screws and around your chin. Thats the way they hold in place the screen used helmets. I have it like that and works great. Also consider using thinner padding inside. Yes... thinner padding for sure. And, not to hi-jack your thread Zon, but I'm not sure about all the buckets in ANH, but I know I've only seen one bucket with the strap under the chin... the one that's on StarWarsHelmets.com I may be wrong on this... show pics if you've got 'em. Look at this photo... see the guy holding his bucket on the right? No strap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iconoclasta_88 Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 Now that you mention it Noel... I will have to take a look and check my references... Anyway. that pictures is from Empire... could be different. Maybe. Maybe not. hehehe... Saludos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zon Posted May 7, 2010 Author Share Posted May 7, 2010 Actually I need more space between the top of the bucket and my head. I didn't use padding I used a halo (like what's inside a construction helmet). Or I need to have the bucket further forward on my head. Or my nose is just too big.. I'll play around with the placement of the interior workings but the halo is pretty comfortable. Still, I might put that elastic piece in there just to cut down on the movement a little. Thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zon Posted May 13, 2010 Author Share Posted May 13, 2010 Waiting on boots, a few more adjustments, and a few more tweaks and I'll be sending in my pics to the 501st. Then it's time to get dirty!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iconoclasta_88 Posted June 10, 2010 Share Posted June 10, 2010 Any update bro? Saludos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zon Posted June 18, 2010 Author Share Posted June 18, 2010 Oh yeah, sorry. Got my boots from TK Boots. I sent in my application to the 501st and I'm waiting to hear back from them. They said it might take a couple of weeks... That was almost a couple of weeks ago. I'm trying out some weathering techniques right now. I "borrowed" some fullers earth from work and I'm playing around with that until I get something I like. Hopefully I'll get my TD# pretty soon and I can start working on getting deployed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iconoclasta_88 Posted June 18, 2010 Share Posted June 18, 2010 Great! Keep us posted! Saludos... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zon Posted June 18, 2010 Author Share Posted June 18, 2010 Will do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zon Posted June 22, 2010 Author Share Posted June 22, 2010 Just heard back from 501. I've got some more work to do... I've been having problems with the shoulder straps from day 1. The shoulder bells connect to the strap that hold the chest and back together but the weight or angle of the shoulders pull those straps down and it looks funny. I have pretty broad shoulders but when I tried to use more elastic to relieve the pressure on the shoulder straps there was too big of a gap between the chest and shoulders. I'm thinking I'll have to reinforce the shoulder straps so they can't get pulled by the shoulders. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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