Vadersf15t Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 So i'm still doing a lot of research and i love that search function, but sometimes im not getting the exact answer so im going to compile a list right here of some of my questions. feel free for anyone to add questions of their own and if they are answered somewhere else im sorry for putting up the same stuff to read: for gluing, i see a lot of different glues mentioned but istill want to give a rundown of what ive read so that people may agree or disagree or propose something else. E6000 seems to be everyones favorite as well as plasti-weld (which i cant seem to find) although i did find something close to it in Home Depot. I used a 5 minute Epoxy that provided an excellant bond and dried clear which was good. i think i also saw someone mention the gorilla glue? for filling in cracks/ holes and other such ABS issues, what do you use? I saw someone mention Acryl-Green and in another topic mention wall plaster, but what is best advisable? id prefer something that does not require paint because i really do not think very highly of my painting skills. TD1536, you have a nice belt! i read what you have on your website about the canvas belt but i wanted to ask if the ABS belt is acceptable as well. i dont see mention of it on the requirements nor as a recommendations so im really curious about what most people do. so the FX bucket is not the best thing in the world and i agree but for now im sort of stuck with it. should the creases be visible because mine was constructed that way and yet it was an approved costume. i can clearly see the spaces between the helmet and the "ears" and the space between the top part of the helmet and the bottom i actually went ahead and sealed so that it is less visible. if you do need to repaint the armor (not weathering) what color white do you use? what type of paint do you use? how many layers do you put, do you wet sand? do you have to sand down the abs to get the paint to stick? (i had horrible experiences trying to paint the Rubie's Darth Vader lid). what tools do you guys recommend that absolutely HAVE to be picked up? i've really decided to commit to this project and i really would like a complete list. look to me like a drill, dremel, rivet gun are some of the requirements got any others? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-1536 Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 1. E6000 and Devcon Plastic Welder (available from Wal Mart) are my two top choices. Next up will be your typical Super Glue (like Krazy Glue) and Gorilla Glue. Gorilla Glue is ideal for things that refuse to stick to each other, rubber for example. It's also good at filling in cracks. 2. Filler. I've tried things like Marine epoxy, didn't like it. My usual go-to is Bondo. There is also an item called Bondo glazing putty, but I've not used it. Bondo is strong, cheap, and easily sandable. I've also tried modeling putty, but felt it's not as workable the way Bondo is. 3. Original belts were canvas. The FX suits come with ABS belts, which works fine, but are not accurate. It should not prevent Legion status however. I just bought a yard of canvas from Jo-Anns Fabrics, folded it over it self three times, and hemmed the edges by hand sewing. Glue in place, and add velcro. Viola! 4. Your FX helmet. Sounds like it is what it is. If you're happy with it, should not prevent legion status. 5. Any armor that's already gloss ABS really does not need to be painted. If you have a HIPS TE2 suit, then yes, paint it. Krylon Fusion White works great. Historically, I've also used the Rustoleum Gloss White in the tall silver can. It's a very solid paint, looks nice and dries fast. But only the tall silver can! Using either of those two does not require priming or wet sanding. 6. Tools. Dremel with many various bits. Diamond cutting wheel is a must-have! Dewalt Power drill, Rivet gun, snap gun, nice hammer or heavy rubber mallet comes in handy. Hack saw, a couple of utility knives with plenty of blades. A pair of heavy duty shop-shears or cutting snips. I have a nice pair of titanium scissors that are a dream. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vadersf15t Posted October 11, 2007 Author Share Posted October 11, 2007 awesome and i really appreciate that fast response because now i can go to Home Depot today! as far as the bondo goes, i had to buy it for my vader when i had one and it dried a pinkish color. i used auto bondo. is this the same bondo you're talking about? or is there one that is white dries a white color? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-1536 Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 awesome and i really appreciate that fast response because now i can go to Home Depot today! as far as the bondo goes, i had to buy it for my vader when i had one and it dried a pinkish color. i used auto bondo. is this the same bondo you're talking about? or is there one that is white dries a white color? the kind I have is from an Auto parts Store, it's gray with the red tube of hardener. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vadersf15t Posted October 11, 2007 Author Share Posted October 11, 2007 yeah thats the same one i got, im worried about how it shows up against the rest of the armor when you use it? do you cover it up with weathering? or does it not stand out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-1536 Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 yeah thats the same one i got, im worried about how it shows up against the rest of the armor when you use it? do you cover it up with weathering? or does it not stand out? well, there should be no need to use it on TK or TD armor. I've assembled about six or seven suits, never needed Bondo. In reality, I've only used Bondo on Clone parts because you have to make them seamless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vadersf15t Posted October 11, 2007 Author Share Posted October 11, 2007 well i plan on making the FX helmet seamless. i dont like spaces where it shows that it was put together. plus my belt as ive been told sits too low. i need to drill out the rivet and place the belt higher. but i dont want a ole left in the armor form where the rivet was so that why im asking what would you use to fill in that hole? and what do you use to fill cracks with because i have quite a few cracks in the belt and i would like to fill them up or some somehow cover them up, theyre not too significant but im nervous about ahving cracks. so what could i use to fill in the holes and what could i use to seal up any spaces in the bucket? if i have to use bondo for those then that means i have to paint it? thats why im asking what is usually used to fill in holes and how is the repair covered? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-1536 Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 If you have cracks in your armor, or seams that you want filled, you would first back the crack with some additional plastic to reinforce it and prevent it from cracking any further. Based on what you're telling me, it sounds as-if you have an FX suit/helmet that was not put together correctly? How was it assembled, and using what kinds of glues, etc.? Can you post pics? When we use the term "seamless" with Clone armor, we mean we want to hide the cut line between two pieces of plastic to make it look like one, solid piece. We use Bondo, then primer, wet sand, repeat, then paint over it. Seamless really does not apply to Stormtrooper armor because you're either overlapping parts or covering the seam with additional plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vadersf15t Posted October 11, 2007 Author Share Posted October 11, 2007 well i notice most buckets are seamless in the back. There there is no noticeable line from where the top of the bucket meets the back at the point where the brow ends. now like i said i glued this but for a lot of TK's i see that there is only a slightly raised bump on this area and no discernible parts of the lid unless thats a different lid altogether? so would it be inadvisable to fill in the holes from the rivets? or maybe just put some bondo in and cover it with paint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-1536 Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 well i notice most buckets are seamless in the back. There there is no noticeable line from where the top of the bucket meets the back at the point where the brow ends. now like i said i glued this but for a lot of TK's i see that there is only a slightly raised bump on this area and no discernible parts of the lid unless thats a different lid altogether? so would it be inadvisable to fill in the holes from the rivets? or maybe just put some bondo in and cover it with paint? The FX helmets are fan sculpts, and are assembled in no way resembling the originals. The FX has a three-part helmet (not including ears), the originals were two-parts. Considering the FX is already inaccurate, the last thing I'd be worried about is hiding the back seam, and going through the hassle to cover it with Bondo. It sounds like you're putting a lot of effort into making a FX helmet look decent, when it was assembled improperly? I personally would not go through all the hassle of filling holes and seams on a FX helmet, then having to sand, wet sand the Bondo, then primer, then paint it. Not worth the effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vadersf15t Posted October 11, 2007 Author Share Posted October 11, 2007 i wouldnt say improperly put together, just could use a little better gluing and im getting a couple pics for you right now, but like you said i would like to put some extra work into it until i could get a sexy TE helmet if thats ever possible. here some pics that i have: IMG_0748small.jpg picture by vadersf1st IMG_0742small.jpg picture by vadersf1st in addition im still not sure of your answer on filling in the holes left from when i drill out the rivets in the belt and am left with the holes. should i just leave the holes? heres a pic of why i need to move the belt IMG_0752small-1.jpg picture by vadersf1st what do you guys do when you have to do alterations that involve putting a hole in your armor? (bad pic i know cause pauldron is on the wrong side) but the positioning of the belt is all wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-1536 Posted October 11, 2007 Share Posted October 11, 2007 Pics don't work. I'm not sure why you have rivet holes you have to fill in? Did you drill holes in the wrong place when putting on the ears for example? If there are holes that you want filled, your only option is to back it with extra plastic, then fill the hole with some kind filler, like Bondo. But because the sanding and color of the filler clearly looks 'out of place', you'll have to wet sand the area smooth, primer and spray paint the whole part to have a consistent look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakengine Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 Hey Mike, your comment about the titanium scissors has piqued my interest. What's the advantage? Is it that things don't stick to the titanium? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-1536 Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 Hey Mike, your comment about the titanium scissors has piqued my interest. What's the advantage? Is it that things don't stick to the titanium? I've gone through about three pairs of cheap scissors, and found these really nice Titanium ones at Lowe's on sale for about $18. They can cut through .080 HIPS fairly easy and everything else like butter. I'm just at the point now where I want nice tools, price be damned. That's why I said earlier to get a diamond cut wheel for your Dremel. It's the most expensive bit at around $15, but it's absolutely worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vadersf15t Posted October 12, 2007 Author Share Posted October 12, 2007 shops open for business! just came back from home depot and i got everything but the dremel and snap gun. i couldnt find the stretchy straps anywhere in home depot so i went and brought the back belt thats completely elastic material so now i have wide and thin stretchy material. you mentioned a snap gun and when i asked the guy in home depot he gave me a funny look like what the **** are you talking about? where can i pick this up? i googled it as an image search and saw what it was but i dont even get how it works lol. i have enough velcro and strapping plus i have a belt to redo the strapping system for the thighs. plus i accidently brought the wrong velcro from this art shop and im going to return it and get that canvas you were talking about. that was art canvas you used or something else entirely? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpdblues Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 MH is truly "Da Man"! Titanium scissors? **** yeah. I've got titanium heads on my Tommy Armour golf clubs...why not! T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-1536 Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 ...you mentioned a snap gun and when i asked the guy in home depot he gave me a funny look like what the **** are you talking about? where can i pick this up?... Check a fabric or craft store, like Jo-Anns Fabrics, Michael's, or AC Moore. I assume you've seen the larger, stronger snaps that most of us use? While these snaps usually include a pin that with the use of a hammer, you can attach them to fabric securely. The snap gun (it really looks more like a pair of pliers), can quickly and easily attach the the two snap halves without having to use that 'pin' or a hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tk0158 Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 With my in-progress TD, I just finished doing all my snaps (tons of them), and I found the hammer method is just fine if you don't want to shell out the cash for a gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-1536 Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 With my in-progress TD, I just finished doing all my snaps (tons of them), and I found the hammer method is just fine if you don't want to shell out the cash for a gun. Yeap it works fine. The gun/pliers thingie was only about $9.00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vadersf15t Posted October 14, 2007 Author Share Posted October 14, 2007 ok my girl finally gave me the camera back so i was able to get some more pics up. as i was told, the belt is too low so i disassembled the pieces and herres what i have: http://www.flickr.com/photos/14990581@N02/1564115347/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/14990581@N02/1564115499/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/14990581@N02/1564115701/ so now what im left with is three nice holes in the cod piece that im hoping to cover up with some tape behind the hole and just put a little weathering. lol ill have a weathered cod piece. im going to be purchasing a canvas belt from Michael's probably on tuesday at the latest and removing pain as i type thisto make a more subtle yet realistic weathering. BTW i found the snaps at Ace's Hardware store good stuff and i dont think i need the gun. how does everyone have their belt connected? i have no directions in front of me and i understand its late but i would love to know so i can start putting this baby back together. i would appreciate any and all comments please, whether it be advice or simple comments, please tell me anything youd like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakengine Posted October 14, 2007 Share Posted October 14, 2007 how does everyone have their belt connected? i have no directions in front of me and i understand its late but i would love to know so i can start putting this baby back together. If I understand your question correctly, I made a canvas belt that went all the way around my body with a good overlap in the back for plenty of industrial velcro. Then I just riveted the plastic belt section to the front of the canvas belt. Just make sure you use rivet backers or washers so the rivets don't pull through the canvas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vadersf15t Posted October 14, 2007 Author Share Posted October 14, 2007 thats half the battle right there but the other half is how do you have the rectangular belt section connected to your abdomen? and its now 1:33 where im at (NYC) and i just removed a good 60% of the paint. check out the pics below these ones! for comparison!!! talk to me guys!!! what do you think!?? http://www.flickr.com/photos/14990581@N02/1565946512/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/14990581@N02/1565062745/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/14990581@N02/1565062637/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/14990581@N02/1565062549/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/14990581@N02/1565947010/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/14990581@N02/1565946914/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/14990581@N02/1565946726/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/14990581@N02/1565062069/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/14990581@N02/1565946414/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/14990581@N02/1565946298/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/14990581@N02/1565946182/ for comparison these are what it used to look like: http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc14 ... mall-1.jpg http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc14 ... 6small.jpg http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc14 ... 4small.jpg http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc14 ... mall-1.jpg http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc14 ... mall-1.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakengine Posted October 14, 2007 Share Posted October 14, 2007 You don't connect the belt to your abdomen. I just pull mine tight when I put it on and it stays in place pretty well. Of course, you can connect it if you'd like, but I've never seen the need to do so. Looks like you're making good progress there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vadersf15t Posted October 14, 2007 Author Share Posted October 14, 2007 yesss!!! it makes sense abut the belt. i just did some research on the MEPD site and saw the pics that other people have done. looks like a go ahead then as soon as i pick up some canvas tomorrow. awesome! thanks for the comment. as soon i get done with the thighs and and leg pieces im going to put up some mroe pics of the armor lying out. i was up until about 2:30am working on my sandtrooper lol! if you have any comments or suggestions id really like to hear! thanks guys! p.s. you know how jedi's and sith have apprenitces? Well they need a book entitled "the sandtrooper armorer's apprentice." i seirously look at you all as my mentors and take each individual feedback and utilize to do the best i can. so again as i say on every post, every comment, suggestion and feedback goes a very long way for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoCKo Posted October 14, 2007 Share Posted October 14, 2007 That's why I said earlier to get a diamond cut wheel for your Dremel. It's the most expensive bit at around $15, but it's absolutely worth it. ABSOLUTLY! i broke a dozen standard cutting wheels but the diamond wheel is going on and on and on... worth the higher prize! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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