dcx13

When starting a new TK/TD build, forgetting individual versions of kits for a moment, is there a preferred "keystone" piece to start the sizing with; i.e. ab & kidney sections properly sized first, then everything else keys from that? My thought was to start there, as the core, and continue outward - chest/back, legs, arms, etc. Would this make sense, or is there a better way? I will have the new kit just before the end of the year, so I'm making my notes now, with the goal of being finished and approved (at least basic) before April. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Well, sadly, after doing a test fit, it appears that all of the leg pieces are too short. Not only that, but once I have the ab & kidney sections properly aligned to one another, the chest plate is above the abs, and not overlapping. I've been working with a couple of local Centurion level TKs to help get the fit dialed, and even spoken with WTF Walt, and after knocking our collective heads together I've come to the conclusion that it will be more cost effective, and easier, to just start a build with an entirely new kit. I'll be keeping this one as a reference for how things go together, etc, then move it along to someone who it will fit better than me. Back to square one...

I'm not entirely sure of what was used. But it's no longer an issue. After review by several members, the fit will not be anywhere near what I need even after extensive modifications, so I'm leaving it as is and purchasing a new kit to start fresh.

Recently picked up a WTF ANH TD build. The previous owner was 5'10" 215lbs, and I'm 5'11" 190lbs, so the maths of it was in the ballpark. Sadly, it looks like the 1" difference in our heights splits differently in our torso & inseam lengths. What's the generally accepted amount of overlap between the ab & chest plates? I've already identified length issues with the leg pieces, and it looks like the ab might be short as well. I know the back & kidney butt against each other, and looking at where things need to line up kidney to abs, it looks like the abs will be too short & the chest would be just above the top edge of the abs. Originally I thought I might just be able to get some new legs and go from there, but if the abs are already cut down, then it may be a wash & time to order a new kit. Hoping to avoid that.

Yes, I know, what I'm asking is borderline blasphemy, but I need to replace all my leg pieces - bought a complete kit off another TD and the thighs & shins have been trimmed too short for me. There's only 1" difference in our heights, but there's a decently fair difference in our inseams. My thought is to try and match the weathering as best as possible on a scrap piece first. If I can, gerat! If not, I'll need remove as much of the of weathering as I can, so I have a relatively blank slate to start a complete matching weathering job again. Has anyone done this before, and if so what did you do?

I found these for my Shoretrooper pouch: Pouch Inserts They work quite well, and the files are free.

It's the collar portion, around the neck. The elastic keeps the shoulder portion properly situated, and it's also a 3 panel /stitched version vs a single piece one, so that helps keep it shaped. Even though the shoulder portion maintains a good shape & position, the collar just wants to flatten out/come up under/around my throat. With the MP40 pouch in place, the front is down, but the rear kicks up and pushes against the rear edge of my helmet. I'd like to get it sorted, and not just remove it all together. I'm guessing that the TD was once a TK (I'm the 2nd owner), as evidenced by the glue remnants on the front of the chest plate, where the shoulder straps would've attached. I've removed as much of it as possible, but I've reached the point where I could damage the plastic/remove quite a bit of the weathering if I go any farther. The pauldron & pouch hide these spots quite well, so I'd like to solve the "flat collar" issue and move on. I have a bunch of hardware in my right shoulder - titanium plate & 7 screws - and the recent change in weather has made it extremely painful to fully move/rotate my arm, so it will be a little while before I can put on any of the parts to get a pic of what's going on with the pauldron.

What is a good way to keep the pauldron conforming to the body a bit better? I keep having the problem of mine flattening out around my neck and pushing my helmet up. I was thinking of possibly adding a snap on the armor, but wanted to see if anyone else had run into this issue first.

@bigwam thanks for that! I figured it would probably be ok, but I also know that there's been enough research done between MEPD & FISD members, that I felt it was best to ask and be sure.

Is there a definitive "brow must be ___ above the eyes" measurement? I ask, as I've picked up a full TD from a member of another garrison, and the brow is fairly low. Having said that, he did gat basic approval as-is, and through all of my researching screen shots and image references here, I have seen all manner of brow heights. My goal is to get a basic approval on this particular TD kit, and then start a second build with MEPD PO status as the minimum goal. Included pic is one from the previous owner. I am currently making sizing adjustments to the armor & doing a little "fine tuning" for my needs.

What's the general consensus on using an E-11 of one era to fulfill the blaster requirement for a few different costumes? I've got a Shore, a TIE & Non-saga Officer in addition to my ANH TD, and currently building my E-11 primarily for the ST. I'm not looking at more than basic approval for my TD at the moment, so I'm hoping that something as simple as removing the flashlight will be enough to make it "visually appropriate" for the ANH era character. I'm completely aware of the nuances & differences in the various E-11, but I'm also trying to keep my overall expenses to a minimum right now, so if I can have one blaster to rule them all... Any input, thoughts, horribly bad ideas, it's all appreciated. Thanks!

Once it all arrives, I will be doing a full layout & fresh pics so potential trouble areas can be more easily seen & identified. The overall plan, like I said before, is to get the fit dialed in & basic approval with my local garrison. My Patrol Trooper is essentially a 99% full rebuild - one of the few Armor Factory kits out there, and the material it's made from is beyond brittle & fragile - so having a troopable kit asap is my top priority with the TD at the moment. Deployment upgrades can come after that.

Like the title says, soon to be another TD. Recently acquired TD-25674's kit, which should be here in a week. There will be some readjustments/tweaking required (5'10" 215lbs vs my 5'11" 193lbs) but it shouldn't be anything too involved (famous last words, I know). I know I'll need to go through the whole approval process with my local garrison, and that's no big deal. He was approved at basic level with Old Line Garrison, but I'd definitely like to take it up a notch to proper MEPD deployment status. I've dug into the history of the build (we're both on several other 501st adjacent forums) and it looks to be a relatively new build, and in really good shape. As far as working with/modifying a prebuilt TD, aside from wear & tear or damaged bits, are there any ANH TD specific areas to be aware of? Pic is from his listing. Yellowish hue is a combo of the light & weathering, already asked about that.

New to the MEPD, but I've been around the greater 501st for a bit... still working towards approval with (at least) one of my builds. Recently acquired TD-25674's Sandy kit, and will be submitting my app for 501st & MEPD once I have it adjusted & dialed in.