pandatrooper

This one here. Shows a few good TD shots and a great turnaround shot of the SE backpack. http://www.starwars.com/video/view/000325.html

I'd point out that Fisd is only 4 TKs from reaching the 150 Expert Infantry mark. Me thinks some sabotaging is in order...

I think I posted that one and the screen grabs above are from it.

I think that shot was from one of the early scenes filmed in Tunisia. Theres another photo of them weathering the armor "on the spot". I think the reason theres no tape on the seed trays is because everything was still new and hadn't fallen apart yet.

Couldn't have said it better myself! Behind you 100%, keep up the good work!

Glad its helpful for everyone!

I would say if you really like the shape of your TE2, go for ATA in black. It will fit you the same where as with AM you may need to do more modifications. The AM chest and back are not very accurate. The only thing you need to do with the ATA TX kit is polish it. My TD is ATA and I love it! My TK is an AM but it took a lot of modifications to make it fit right and be more accurate. I wrote a lengthy AM review here, might provide some more insight for you. http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=12579&pid=155662&st=0entry155662

It would be fine for acceptance into the 501st since the backpack is an accessory, but not for Mepd deployed.

I would also say that if you're planning to replicate a specific trooper for the Elite / Expert program, pick a trooper that has the matching pack, pauldron, pouches, weapon etc. So that your setup works as a whole.

Don't forget to hit up your garrison mates / TK friends that bought AM kits. AM includes the sandy and TK parts with their kits, so a TKs often have these parts leftover. I've given my spares away to Mepd bros and just asked for a few bucks for postage.

Here's some photos for making one out of plastic as well. http://www.legionxxiv.org/trooper124/sniperplate.htm BTW: many armor makers like TM, ATA, etc will sell a sniper plate separately. You should contact them to ask. There's also an AM one for sale here for $5.00 http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=14253

Can you clarify what you mean by pattern? Did the AP kit not come with a sniper knee or are you trying to figure out how to mount it?

If you rapid fire / loop that, the AT At sound is really annoying when repeated. It sounds very "slow" for a light repeating blaster. Just my 2 cents! I think if you have software for audio editing, just take the E-11 one and adjust it. Maybe deeper tone, more echo, etc.

The Hyperdyne and Plecterlabs sound cards are not stocked very often. They are hard to find. I would get one of the new toy blasters (not the Hasbro E 11 because it has that weird secondary sound) like the Fett on above, and wire it into an Aker amp. I think its the best route so far. If you are crafty, you could also wire in a Luxeon III led into end for muzzle flash. Be careful not to blind kids though!

Very nice!

Sounds pretty cool, very unique. Try and disconnect the speaker wires, connect it to a 1/8" stereo jack, then wire it inline with an Aker amp. That's pretty much what I did for my T-21.

My only advice with all helmets: leave more material on the ears than you think you need, and slowly trim more and more off. It's better to do it this way than to trim too much.

In the movie when the STS trooper shoots with the T-21, (they try to shoot at the Falcon / Han solo) the sound effects are not really any different than an E-11. I used the Hyperdyne card which actually has several blaster sounds on it (clone, etc.) but I kept it to the E-11 one to match the film. I was just as anal retentive into researching this as you are.

Tk boots are the best.

I woul suggest getting a resin blaster from Doopydoos. They seem to be more reliable. Their pipe kit is fun and easy to build. Personally, I would never order anything from Shepperton or Andrew Ainsworth. I would suggest you look up the history of what he did on Star wars and the things he's taken credit for (that he didn't do).

Looks great! Looks like you used a smaller diameter elbow, and used smaller piping inside to join the elbow to the straight tubing for a flush fit?

I like that much better. Honestly, it looks more "real" rather than 1 color dusting to me. Again, just my personal opinion.

I have slim build too. And while I'm happy with the way my AM kit turned out, it took twice as long as to build than my ATA to make it fit me well. The AM comes trimmed, but it still needs to be "sized". On my AM, I modified (and this means not just trimming for size, but heating and reshaping, removing material, adding return edges, etc) the following parts to make them fit a "slim" build: - shoulder bridges (cut narrower, reshaped) - shoulder bells (heated, reshaped, removed lower 1", added taper, added return edge) - chest (reshaped, trimmed bottom edge, added return, cut notches in arm pits, cut deeper neck) - back (curved upper tabs, trimmed bottom edge, added return) - AB / kidney (resized via heating and reshaping, removed crotch tab) - butt (reshaped, cut every side to reduce size) - thighs (removed top 1.25", reshaped tops, added ANH style notches, added notches in the back for clearance) - shins (reshaped, removed lower return) On the ATA, I didn't need to resize much at all, except modding the thigh tops, which is really optional.

Looks great Pat! Really like the tops, that's nice and accurate! Makes me want to make another frame!

Pat. On my pvc frame, i drilled a 1/8" hole in the junctions where the pipe inserted into the elbows and popped 1/4" long aluminum rivet in to lock the junction. Secure, lightweight and nearly invisible (install them on the underside of the pack frame).