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TE2 Weathering


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So Lord willing I'm going to get some TE2 armor to do my TD and I'm starting to make my mental game plan as to what I'm going to need, etc.

In your opinion should it be sanded, primed and painted gloss white first?

Or does it matter that much?

I'm thinking I will sand, prime and paint it but not worry too much about getting it completely "perfect" and letting any flaws (bugs, drips, runs) happen and stay just chalking it up to character.

Thoughts?

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Im going through a similar moment myself with my TE2 bucket...

What I think is important to take in consideration would be:

a) Do you want a TK or a TD

B) Assuming you would choose a TD, then the next question is, do you want a 100% screen accurate prop, or just a super cool bucket for your standards.

I am trying to make a Move Along/troopable bucket. So for me, I guess i will go something like this:

1. light sanding

2. white primer

3. regular glossy white paint (no extra glossy or car paint stuff)

4. weathering

This cause although I would love to have the extra glossy white look and then weather it, it would not match my 3 years old FX armor.

Thats my opinion anyway.

good luck and keep us posted on your decision and progress.

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I second that Chaz, Rustoleum for me too. :)

This might sound crazy but I primed, wet sanded, painted, then wet sanded with 600 grit, then rubbed with compound, then waxed with auto wax for my suit. It gave it a sort of worn down / sand blasted look yet retained enough glossiness to look good. Once I began the acrylic paint weathering techniques most of the wax was rubbed off so by the time I got to the powder weathering it stuck pretty well. The wax was mainly to polish out the light scuffing left behind by the rubbing compound. Maybe I was bored but in the end it came out looking nice.

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Okay... okay... I'll paint. B) haha

I was planning on painting anyway, but I wanted opinions just in case I was wrong in my thinking.

Seriously, thanks for all the advice!

I'm a big fan of Krylon white gloss... it's what I painted my MR CE with and was a lot easier (for me) to use than Rust-o-leum.

Probably because I don't read directions. :huh:

Scootch... that's interesting what you did.

I doubt I do all that, but I'm glad to know of it.

I will certainly start a thread here when I get started... don't hold your breath right now, but you can look forward to it. :)

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Okay... okay... I'll paint. B) haha

I was planning on painting anyway, but I wanted opinions just in case I was wrong in my thinking.

Seriously, thanks for all the advice!

I'm a big fan of Krylon white gloss... it's what I painted my MR CE with and was a lot easier (for me) to use than Rust-o-leum.

Probably because I don't read directions. :huh:

Scootch... that's interesting what you did.

I doubt I do all that, but I'm glad to know of it.

I will certainly start a thread here when I get started... don't hold your breath right now, but you can look forward to it. :)

If you use Rustoleum get it all in one shot the frist few hours of painting. Dont respray once it drys... I learned that the hard way <_< lol

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If you use Rustoleum get it all in one shot the frist few hours of painting. Dont respray once it drys... I learned that the hard way <_< lol

I think that was EXACTLY what I did wrong with it. Which, if that's the case, that actually would make it better because the Krylon takes a few days to really get it done well.
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Yeah it's important that you shoot a second coat within a few minutes or wait 24 hours to shoot it a second time but I think that goes for most paints. Did you guys get the crazy cracking thing? I have gotten that with both brands and it ammounts to recoat time intervals.

I've also tried this procedure:

Shoot a nice coat, maybe you get some orange peel or a run or two, don't worry. Wait 24 hours or so, wet sand it and work the areas of runs and orange peel out nice and smooth (doesn't have to be perfect), then after it's nice and dry (maybe another 24 hours) shoot again.

It's hard to get a 100% perfect paint job especially on a helmet without some sanding and buffing.

If it's a sandtrooper helmet the good news is you can hide all kinds of pits, orange peel, runs, etc with your weathering.

When you look at my helmet for example, it was vac formed very hot and the plastic had "oatmeal" type pitting all over the dome. After weathering it just looks like sand and you can't tell it's oatmealed.

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