clutch Posted July 4, 2007 Share Posted July 4, 2007 Just now starting to work on mine. Getting the stuff to line up is gonna be the toughest part. However with a little patience, I think it can be done quite easily. I'm going to have mine break down-able. With that in mind, I think the easiest route would be to saw the pvc pipe off the barrel shroud and insert it into the receiver. Then use a wooden dowel to 'pin' the two halves together. I didn't find a dowel that fit exactly, so I wrapped mine with some masking tape for a perfect fit. My diagraming skills amaze me: Drill through the offset side and insert a bolt or a rod for extra strength and to further help align the sides. I plan on using a bolt. This will tie the two halves together and keep the barrel from rotating. Don't cut the pvc flush with the barrel just yet, leave 1/8 of an inch showing because if you cut it flush, I don't think it will touch the receiver and you won't be able to mark the hole with paint. When you drill into the receiver, you are just gonna have to eyeball it, unless you have a drill press. If you make the hole too big, no worries because you are going to glue the pvc pipe inside. Work you way up through bits. Start with a small one and then use a bigger one, then a bigger one, etc... Until the hole is the correct size. Some of the hole might appear through the slot the charging hangle goes into. This is also good because it'll give you an area to squirt glue into. Once you insert the pvc into the receiver with the wet glue (I'm going to use 5-minute epoxy) press the barrel (with dowel) into it and against the receiver. Make sure everything is lined up and hold for, you guessed it, 5 minutes. You can then slide the barrel off. Or, if you want it permanent, just glue the dowel at the same time. If you don't have one of these, get it. It is great for sanding stuff like the end of the receiver and tk armor: $99.00 at Lowes. Best investment you could make. I've become quite the dremel carver. Here are some bits to make it more accurate: This grinding bit is great for the barrel shroud holes. Just keep it steady and move it around inside the hole. They will all be uniform in depth in no time! You'll need to cut this hole out for accuracy: This grinder is the perfect size for cutting the hole back in the sight attachment thingie. You'll need to put a 3/16 dowel rod in the center once it is cut: This bit is the perfect size for cutting the channel back in the site: This bit is the perfect size for cutting the square cuts here on both sides: This hole will need to be cleaned out in the grip: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth_Nickel Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 Nice work!!! Can you post the bit part numbers. I need to hit home depot to pick up some supplies anyway!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clutch Posted July 5, 2007 Author Share Posted July 5, 2007 These were the only ones I could identify online. I've had some of my bits for years. http://www.toolbarn.com/product/dremel/8193/ http://www.toolbarn.com/product/dremel/932/ http://www.toolbarn.com/product/dremel/8215/ not sure about this one, but it looks close. And crank the dremel up to about half speed if yours can be adjusted. It's easy to take material off, but a pain in the rear to put it back on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth_Nickel Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 Sweet. Thanks J. I have some, so I can always see if they will fit (I think I have 2 of the 3 grinding stones) It may be time just to stock up a few different bits (can't REALLY have to many) I recently got the Dremel Stylus. I can't say enough of this beauty. It's sweet for detail work. http://www.dremel.com/en-us/tools/tool-det...G=66204&I=69808 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clutch Posted July 12, 2007 Author Share Posted July 12, 2007 Been slow goin'. Here are some prog. pics I had made for Nickel. I had a revelation the other day, why bother drilling a hole big enough in the receiver for the pvc tube? Why not just drill a hole big enough for the dowel rod? Duh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolf Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 Nice work as all ways Clutch . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve12201 Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 Clutch, How are things going on the MG-34. I am still working on a way to make mine break down in half for transport. Any updates/ pics to post? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burt Landcaster Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 Great work wish it was this easy for my hyperfirm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve12201 Posted September 8, 2007 Share Posted September 8, 2007 I'm looking for a good glue to use between the dow rod and the receiver. I tried E-6000 but it didn't work. It dries rubbery if it is too thick. I need something that will set up like a rock and not flex at all. Secondly, What should I use for a filler to fix all the bubbles and imperfections? I haven't worked with cast resin before. Steve12201 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terrell78 Posted September 9, 2007 Share Posted September 9, 2007 For the gluing use Devcon 5 minute epoxy. It sets up rock solid and bonds well to resin. I've used it on large resin models in the the past with good results. As for filling resin, the same 5 minute epoxy works great. You can use bondo or filler putty, but the epoxy bonds to the resin better, doesn't shrink like putty, and can be cleaned up if you put too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tk1888 Posted September 9, 2007 Share Posted September 9, 2007 I use 'Plastic Welder'. You can find it with the other epoxy glues in the paint aisle of Wal Mart. It is a 2 part epoxy that dries in 8-10 minutes, it is designed to bond with plastic and resin and it is easily sanded and painted. I have actually used this stuff as a filler. I would not recommend doing a lot of filling with it, but it is great for small patch work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clutch Posted September 13, 2007 Author Share Posted September 13, 2007 Sorry for abandoning this thread. Life hit me hard with a layoff at work. So I'm just peeking in from time to time until things get settled. I agree with the 5 minute epoxy, very strong bond. As an added precaution, rough up the resin parts to be mated with sandpaper first. The best filler I've found is magicsculp. You mix up the two parts and it smooths over like glass with a little water on your fingertip. Just go to www.magicsculp.com and ask for a sample. They'll send you enough to do several kits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caomhanach Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 For the gluing use Devcon 5 minute epoxy. It sets up rock solid and bonds well to resin. I've used it on large resin models in the the past with good results. As I am just about ready to (finally - life happens!) put it together, where can do get Devcon? Places like Lowes? Home Depot? Walmart? and which is it actually? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SethB6025 Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 Devcon can be found at WM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caomhanach Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 Thanks Seth... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theGreatSot Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 Psst... Clutch... did you ever finish your MG-34? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clutch Posted June 4, 2008 Author Share Posted June 4, 2008 Hehe. Nope, still a wip. I got a hyperfirm recently which is what I wanted in the first place, so the resin one will probably be a wall hanger and thus I want it to be near-perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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