TK-459 Posted October 26, 2006 Author Share Posted October 26, 2006 Sanding with the dremel takes practice. I usually set the dremel at about 80% for the sanding wheel and hold it like a pencil. When you get close to your edge use a lighter touch with it. Also, you can at least try to get close to your cut lines and then finish the edge with sandpaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troopermaster Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 I have a rotary tool just like a dremel that has a flexible lead and i use a sanding wheel to do all my trimming.I have it on steady setting and just sand away until it hit my pencil line.Once happy I give it a quick blast with some medium grit sandpaper and it's perfect! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-459 Posted April 11, 2007 Author Share Posted April 11, 2007 Time to catch this thread up. I had to start this armor out as a TK, but knew that I would be reverting to a TD. For this reason, a few of the parts were attached with temporary methods (abplate, ribbed shoulder straps, drop boxes, helmet details, knee). Test fitting the chest and back sections with tape Once satisfied, 2" white elastic strips are attached to the chest with e6000, held flat with scrap plastic and clamps. After this sets, I did the same in the back. Some people prefer adjustable shoulder straps...thats really up to you. I then attached the ribbed straps over the elastic by connecting with industrial velcro on the chest and back plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-459 Posted April 11, 2007 Author Share Posted April 11, 2007 I prefer snaps for most of the armor connections. Here is the upper-armor strapping. I attached an additional length of 2" white elastic strap to each existing strap. The additional lengths have a snap connected to the middle to secure the shoulder straps to. The additional 2" straps were also connected with e6000 for flexibility. Snaps are either connected to scrap length of abs/sintra (round the corners so it doesn't catch your bodysuit) or directly to the elastic straps. I glue the abs snaps to the armor with Devcon Plastic Welder. The elastic strap snaps are fed through with a micro-screwdriver, and I also use a small about of fabric glue around the hole so that the straps do not friz up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-459 Posted April 11, 2007 Author Share Posted April 11, 2007 I seperated the back and buttplate for better flexibility. Several 2" black elastic straps (six) are used here. Be sure to leave a small gap so the armor doesn't bind. The increased number of straps (up from three on my last set of armor) help keep the piece better in place while still allowing some movement. The straps are attached with e6000. Masking tape does the job of keeping the straps down while the glue sets without sticking afterwards. Here is the lower body assembly. Three white rivets attached through a 2" black elastic strip hold the left side together. There is also a small gap between the front and back parts to avoid rubbing/binding. e6000 also reinforces the elastic strap from the inside. The right is secured with 2 x 2" black elastic straps, top and bottom of the side. Each of these has 2 snaps. The cod attached with a different style connector. I suggest a firm connector because this part is prone to pop open when you walk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burt Landcaster Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 looken good man, thoese walmart snaps feel apart on me lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-459 Posted April 11, 2007 Author Share Posted April 11, 2007 All legs, arm and thigh pieces are again connected with abs strips. Mine are about 5/8" on the biceps and forearms, 6/8" on the shins, and 7/8" on the thighs. Cut the lip of each to about half the width of the strips. The only open area is the back of the shins, which overlap and connect with white industrial velcro strips. Here you can also see the snap connector for the thighs that connects to the lower body. Drop boxes attach with one snap. The other side is attached to the drop box with e6000. Thermal detonator assembly riveted with the Staples banker clips. I also attached an additional piece of velcro on the inside of the clips and the waistbelt to help keep it in place. The knee (shown unattached) was secured with one white rivet on each side of the shin. White rivets also secure the right thigh box detail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-459 Posted April 11, 2007 Author Share Posted April 11, 2007 looken good man, thoese walmart snaps feel apart on me lol. Hmm, the snaps work great for me, but I do use more than one on high-stress areas just for backup. One thing to be careful about is mixing and matching sets of the snaps. At some point they changed the packaging and the new ones don't fit well to the old ones. Other than that I have never had a problem and much prefer them over velcro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-459 Posted April 11, 2007 Author Share Posted April 11, 2007 Whew, just about caught up here. Here are my gloves. I use three snaps on the gloves for the hand armor to keep it from wobbling. The lowerbody also has modified suspenders attached to help secure it. The front has hidden slits that the suspenders clip into. The back of the slits are reinforced with Devcon Plastic Welder. Additional elastic snaps are used to secure the chest and back to the lowerbody. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-459 Posted April 11, 2007 Author Share Posted April 11, 2007 Thank you to everyone for your help along the way. Ready for the dirt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoCKo Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 looking really great! well done! only one thing to add: if you´re going for the sandy route...well, i hate to say it, but... you will have to get rid of some of your work, like the TK knee plate, the drop boxes and the ab-buttons for example... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-459 Posted April 11, 2007 Author Share Posted April 11, 2007 looking really great! well done! only one thing to add: if you´re going for the sandy route...well you will have to get rid of some of your work, like the TK knee plate, the drop boxes and the ab-buttons for example... Yeah, I planned ahead for that. I made all the TK-specific details removable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpdblues Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 Man o' man, That's beautiful looking armor! I gotta spend some quality time with my stuff... T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain4434 Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 great! now go roll around in the dirt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-459 Posted April 11, 2007 Author Share Posted April 11, 2007 Lol. Thanks guys. I am continuing the progress of this armor towards a Sandtrooper HERE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burt Landcaster Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 throw some dirt on that sucker and your good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve12201 Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 Looking Good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bearden6521 Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 Looking good AP brother ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolf Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 Very nice work very nice armor . Youre looking good trooper . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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