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MY AP HELMET


td2878
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Mine was the same! I was a bit disappointed when I got it. For what I paid I was expecting more, the pull was not as crisp as I would have liked,and thin in places like where the Hovi tips go is wafer thin. If I was going to be using this for a clean white trooper I would have sent it back for a refund but figured since I was dirtying it up anyways???. I'm happy with the final result I accomplished just not with the product itself. The crease is not as noticable after dirtying.

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Theres another big hump on the bottom right of the face plate

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I was also expecting to see the 5th tooth detail, like the troopers AP bucket on the RPF below

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I think im going to email AP as im not happy if these humps arent meant to be here clean or dirty. Thanks for the fast reply 8828.

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Those marks are where the hot plastic hits the mould first and cools,causing the rest to thin out as it stretches.The forming is almost instant,but can cause these marks,especially on a cold mould.The mic tip holes will be thinner than the rest due to amount of stretching into the 'hole' by the plastic.

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I'll say one thing, this AP helm is not as thick as my old FX and I have to be careful how I hold it. Maybe thats why the mic tip areas are so thin because the plastic was thin to begin with. I still like the way it looks overall.

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I believe the only way to get away from thin spots,would be to pull the helmet parts into a negative mold,instead of a positive stretch over it.the plastic is pulled into the mold cavity while air pressure pushes from one side and a vaccum pulls from the other,i have read about it on the web and a coworker i work with did this kind of thing in school.i belive its called blow molding,its the only way to get uniform thickness in plastic.heat,air density,humidity all facter in as well.

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Yes I believe you are right about a negative mould,but I don't think that's blow moulding.I think blow moulding is when air is forced under the heated plastic,or hot air,and then sucked over the mould.That way the plastic is pre-stretched before it hits the mould and forms much more uniform.You'd have to have an expensive bit of machinery to do this thought.

Any helmet,or any mould for that matter,can have these bumps.It's caused by hot plastic touching cold mould before the vacuum is applied,i.e before a seal is made and the plastic is sucked down.I think most pro moulds are metal and heated up so that the plastic stays warm and forms better.Fan made moulds are either resin,bondo,plaster or wood and will usually result in the final castings having these bumps unfortunatley.It's got nothing to do with bumpy moulds.

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Any helmet,or any mould for that matter,can have these bumps.It's caused by hot plastic touching cold mould before the vacuum is applied,i.e before a seal is made and the plastic is sucked down.I think most pro moulds are metal and heated up so that the plastic stays warm and forms better.Fan made moulds are either resin,bondo,plaster or wood and will usually result in the final castings having these bumps unfortunatley.It's got nothing to do with bumpy moulds.

You are correct TM.

We have pulled quite a few dome shapes molds and always have that problem - especially in the Winter time. It is unavoidable. Pro molding company usually have heating element in their mold and that cost thousand of dollars.

BTW, AP is using .08 ABS versus US propmakers who use.09 ABS (standard for US ABS plastic.)

Little tip - buy you armor in the Spring and Summer time.

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In 2001 i get my GT armor.

Sold it in 2004 to get my two GF armors insted.

Sold them in 2005 to get my two AP insted

(because they are maked in a better vacum shop, in a thicker abs plastic this time, AP 80, GF 60, and the helmet was more round and wide in the top like TE).

For about 8 mounth ago i buy a new AP more, but its was not as thick as my old ap´s ones. And it also have the drips on the helmet like yours.

I sold it again.

And i now only have mine two AP´s from 2005, whit no drips (very nice vacum job i think).

By the way... i sold my armors to friends to get then into my garrison, i have not maked eny money on it.

Regards

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cool rolf, dont get me wrong I still love the helmet and im totally ecstatic about getting started on this project.........GOT MY BACKPACK PARTS TODAY TOO....woo hooo, I was just a little dissapointed in the end product guess i was just expecting a liittl more perfection but as AP himself said the originals were far from perfect in the first place!

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cool rolf, dont get me wrong I still love the helmet and im totally ecstatic about getting started on this project.........GOT MY BACKPACK PARTS TODAY TOO....woo hooo, I was just a little dissapointed in the end product guess i was just expecting a liittl more perfection but as AP himself said the originals were far from perfect in the first place!

No sweat bro.

I was too a bit disappointed when i got my new AP like your whit drips and not as thick as the last one (some of the parts).

I was thinking of geting a nother one because of the more accurate modify string belly box this time.

I was only a bit disappointed, because the last one was so good looking/vacum job ex.

I still think that AP is one of the best armors out there you can buy for your self.

I got mine MH and SB back pack parts for a few days ago, and iam all ready in full progress whit it.

Cant wait to join MEPD asap.

Best regards from here my friend.

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It's the downfall of vac-forming. It can be tempermental for sure. My old AP had a thin spot on the back of the cap where two others I compared it to did not, and I've had differences in the TE helmets I've handled as well. Unless you are pressure forming (imagine a press) it's impossible for something to have a 100% consistent thickness.

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Well heres a pic of my new AP, its finished well almost now I have to build the armor and weather everything, not forgetting to take off the cheek decals and painting the cheeks grey, I handpainted the frown, tried the stickers , didnt like the look. Its next to my old RT for comparison, I found the blue decals very hard to put on just managing to get all 13 on there by individually adjusting them while they were still moveable(used the windex trick!) took forever until i was happy. Actually having a look at these pic i think i should paint the top part of the front tooth too!

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