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TM armor build aiming to swat


Sn4k3
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Hello mates
 
Yesterday was my first Big Brown Box Day, I'm starting the build today, as you can read in the title is a troopermaster armor and guys, is a very nice armor, with very defined lines and a notable organic look, the abs that Paul uses feels well made, flexible but fairly sturdy.
 
Is amazing how asymmetric some pieces are, specially the ear caps, you will see in the pics.
 
I'm so happy with this armor, i herad that Paul sculps the molds for his armors and i have to say, he is a true artist and i feel that is an honor have the opportunity to own one of his armors.
 
As usual in this threads, all your recommendations, advices and suggestions are espected and more than welcome.e2cc5772464409453471f2e46a33be00.jpg
 
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Nice to see you started a build thread, Daniel.

Let's see some new photos of your progress

Yeah it is necessary, i will show as muh as possible of the build.

 

By the way@troopermaster, do you still recommend this measurements? Not 25 on the back of the thighs?(Pic below)

 

And what is the difference between the humbrol 14 blue and the 221? Why do you use the 221 and the 14 for the legion?d6a112209e7b21cc90e75c19e5e08643.jpg

 

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Cool, have fun building! :duim:
[mention=110]troopermaster[/mention], since when have you added those ridges to the ears, Paul? That's new. 
I think is great the add of cutting lines as a guide.

Building the helmet took me like 4 days, and is not painted yet, it was super difficult for me as a newbie. I know, i shouldn't start for the helmet but... Rookie mistake.

Pictures coming soon

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I don't know where you got that quote from but I don't ever remember stating those measurements. Here is what I do recommend:

Arms - 15-17mm wide

Legs - 20-22mm wide

Calf backs - 25mm wide

 

For the tube stripes:

#14 501st

#221 screen accurate

I would prefer to use #221 on all my 1.5mm gloss ABS builds but the 501st like you to use #14 which is not the correct colour.

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I don't know where you got that quote from but I don't ever remember stating those measurements. Here is what I do recommend:
Arms - 15-17mm wide
Legs - 20-22mm wide
Calf backs - 25mm wide
 
For the tube stripes:
#14 501st
#221 screen accurate
I would prefer to use #221 on all my 1.5mm gloss ABS builds but the 501st like you to use #14 which is not the correct colour.
Lol, Is a quote from 2006, That is exactly why i wanted to ask you that again, maybe, in that time you thought it was correct, but as more things we learn about the production of the movies, specifically about the tk/td armors, we change some things about the way we make the builds.  

In regards to the colours, #221 is for both? TK and TD?

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Oh don't worry, starting with the helmet is actually a good idea, I always did it that way. Looking forward to seeing your progress. :duim:
Well i say that because i have read here many saying that the helmet is one of the most difficult parts of the entire build.

In fact i almost damage the whole thing, i cutted a chunk from sides of the sides and top of faceplate and later notice that it will be a nightmare align the helmet properly, which it was, if not for Paul's help, i don't know how that helmet would have looked, or, if i would have ever been able to put it together at all.

Now i know that, at least, TM helmets dont need trimming on the faceplate, except down in the neck rim after verifying with the s-trim.

Take a look to this photos of my helmet from almost all angles, tell me what do you think?bcb2d56b1487f5cf582d0e39123ac64c.jpgde8932d8767ba66b4cb57e1b0308f17e.jpg5725e388546b2dba4282c8f7d256ef2a.jpga5257aa76103b6fec7879b8a554c2378.jpg929871c243d4ebf1d123ad9147bb73d3.jpga42da44516fc299fbf70ef5a6f794a8e.jpg

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Yeah, first cut's the most difficult. But hey, you and Paul have done a great job saving it, looks great! :duim:
Thanks for your opinion, it means a lot to have the point of view of the more experienced, since I'm going for level 3, is important to me avoid as much mistakes as possible

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I'm not crazy about the eyes at the moment. I think they are too clean and tidy. That might be what you're going for but the original helmets were very rough, so you might want to adjust the eyes more. Just a suggestion
 
Jmmm good suggestion, I'm supposed to emulate a trooper from the film in level 3... It's hard, because the eyes are already too clean, so...

Long story short, i was going for TK, but i had a long chat with a friend and he nicely talk me out that, and now i back to the original plan, TD.

So, i have to scan all TD scenes and pick a trooper.

What if i pick a trooper that is not featured in all his splendor? The opposite to the "move along" trooper, if i do this can i get away with my too clean eyes?

This is a question for everyone , not just troopermaster

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Well, normally it's a good idea to choose the trooper you want to emulate before starting your build. Of course you can choose one of the troopers in the background where there isn't as much reference material but now in times of ultra 4K whatever, I think that more and more details will become unveiled. 

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Well, normally it's a good idea to choose the trooper you want to emulate before starting your build. Of course you can choose one of the troopers in the background where there isn't as much reference material but now in times of ultra 4K whatever, I think that more and more details will become unveiled. 
Well i was checking this guy, when the falcon takes off, he is all the time looking away, all we can see is his backs pack and some parts of the back of the armor4c97be7c49a5af89a6b4d1f1327de4c5.jpg

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The one thing I like about the MEPD is you strive for accuracy, unlike the FISD. With the Sandtroopers being the first suits made, they are more rugged and unsanitary and I like that a lot. The one thing you have going for you in regards to the eyes is that you can always trim them out later if you decide to go for that rugged look.

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The one thing I like about the MEPD is you strive for accuracy, unlike the FISD. With the Sandtroopers being the first suits made, they are more rugged and unsanitary and I like that a lot. The one thing you have going for you in regards to the eyes is that you can always trim them out later if you decide to go for that rugged look.
Agreed, but, they are already trim out

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You don't 'have' to do anything. I'm only suggesting to trim the eyes more rugged if you want a more authentic look. I can guarantee you that the eyes on any original helmet are nowhere near as neat and tidy as you have them at the moment. I'm sure you have seen some of my replica helmets that I have built but here are a couple - just for reference. 

xMhstu7.jpg

iFk31cW.jpg

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You don't 'have' to do anything. I'm only suggesting to trim the eyes more rugged if you want a more authentic look. I can guarantee you that the eyes on any original helmet are nowhere near as neat and tidy as you have them at the moment. I'm sure you have seen some of my replica helmets that I have built but here are a couple - just for reference. 
xMhstu7.jpg
iFk31cW.jpg
I understand now, alright, let me see how much can i do that

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I don't know where you got that quote from but I don't ever remember stating those measurements. Here is what I do recommend:

Arms - 15-17mm wide

Legs - 20-22mm wide

Calf backs - 25mm wide

 

For the tube stripes:

#14 501st

#221 screen accurate

I would prefer to use #221 on all my 1.5mm gloss ABS builds but the 501st like you to use #14 which is not the correct colour.

Coming back to this@troopermaster , why would someone use 17mm in the arms instead of 15?, What makes the difference?

 

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