shwarzwald Posted December 29, 2016 Author Share Posted December 29, 2016 Ok held off starting the shins, but sanded the helmet again. I really wish the weather was just a biiit warmer so I could get at least a few layers on it each time I prime it. As is....the helmet might take the longest to complete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 I bought extra ABS from Trooperbay and I use inner strips too for added strength. If you haven't done so, pickup a bunch of rare earth magnets and extra clamps. That way you can do more than one piece a night. I would also advice not doing all the cover strips at once. You need to make sure things fit correctly. For example, if you need more room on the rear of the thighs you may need larger cover strips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shwarzwald Posted December 29, 2016 Author Share Posted December 29, 2016 Yeah my local hardware store ran out of the magnets after I bought the remainder of their stock!( More was on order) Also I meant measure out and cut the coverstrips at the same time. Like after all pieces have been trimmed and fit correctly. That way I would know if any had to be longer. Also good to see another person does both inside and outside coverstrips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shwarzwald Posted December 30, 2016 Author Share Posted December 30, 2016 Ok so I bought out all the magnets at the hardware store and got a few more clamps. With that I was able to get the inside coverstrips glued in on the right bicep. Though bad news is I apparently do not have enough coverstrips to even finish the armor off. So kinda in a bind. I messaged wtf to see if I could maybe get some. Unrelated I forgot to show that I had built a mediocre mannequin that once I adjust it will hopefully hold the armor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shwarzwald Posted December 30, 2016 Author Share Posted December 30, 2016 Ok so the shins are giving me heck. How wide is the front flat spot allowed to be? Pretty much it would be a 25mm coverstrip sitting over a large flat area. And the back side cant connect. ( Curse you bike riding!) Also this is also taking into account the boots. ( Wore them each time I fitted it.) Edit- Also wear proper ppe while working on projects. Just sliced the top of my thumb with an exacto while scoring a piece. Be safe boys and girls! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoveMonkey Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 It's hard for me to see from my iPhone screen, but it looks like you overlapped the thigh pieces. You might have better success if you butt join them and lay the cover strip over the joint.Imperial Transmission sent via Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shwarzwald Posted December 30, 2016 Author Share Posted December 30, 2016 This was before trimming. Problem is the flat spot is just gonna be quite wide. Is that a bad thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spliedt729 Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 I am going for SWAT with the famous "Move Along" trooper and he has 11 on the left and 12 on the right. I don't know if it matters because I've seen some with just 11 on both. Might depend on the armor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shwarzwald Posted December 30, 2016 Author Share Posted December 30, 2016 39 minutes ago, Spliedt729 said: I am going for SWAT with the famous "Move Along" trooper and he has 11 on the left and 12 on the right. I don't know if it matters because I've seen some with just 11 on both. Might depend on the armor. Took me a secon to realize you were answering a question I had earlier. Yeah from what I can tell everyone is a bit different. Kits vary. I counted them each time I was on a new build thread. So I decided o keep 12, but keep it shorter. The shins are the current problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spliedt729 Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 From what I understand the back side can be a little wider for bigger calves it's the front that you wanna try to keep as accurate as possible. But I'm also on my first build and am a newbie as well. So I don't think it will be a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shwarzwald Posted December 30, 2016 Author Share Posted December 30, 2016 Well good news is I also learned that the cover strip opening on the shins opens towards the inside. So thats useful for later. (Bad description...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spliedt729 Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 That will help haha how are you closing your shins? The hook method or velcro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shwarzwald Posted December 30, 2016 Author Share Posted December 30, 2016 Velcro would be the go to due to space, but I have seen a magnet method I may look into further. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spliedt729 Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 I did Velcro and so far so good but that magnet method sounds interesting good luck with your build it's looking awesome, the fun part is coming when you get to dirty that white plastic up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shwarzwald Posted December 30, 2016 Author Share Posted December 30, 2016 That's probably going to be the part that takes the longest. I'm caught wanting to emulate an onscreen trooper, but the weathering is what really makes a sandtrooper unique. And unlike my clonetrooper helmet I'm really going to make it look proper and realistic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spliedt729 Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 Do you already know which trooper you are wanting to do? And im guessing your probably going for SWAT. Some onscreen troopers have certain features to their armor which really makes them standout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shwarzwald Posted December 30, 2016 Author Share Posted December 30, 2016 The one that I will probably aim to emulate is Roadblock v2 sergeant. The one with the Mg-15. Otherwise I will just create a unique sandtrooper. I am especially eager to find out if we will be allowed to use the pack #4 that appeared in R1. (The ones with the radio.)(Not the crystal carrying back. Since that is standard tk.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 You'd need R1 style armor for that pack more than likely. Are you doing butt joins when you're building your armor? Check out some of the build threads as they are highly detailed and organized: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/ and http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31920-ukswraths-am-10-build/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shwarzwald Posted December 30, 2016 Author Share Posted December 30, 2016 Believe you me when I say ukswrath is whom I've been following for builds. Also what I showed was precutting. I would overlap the pieces until I found a desired width I wanted to cut them to butt them together. Followed by an inside coverstrip. Then an outside coverstrip effectively sandwiching the two parts together. However my concern was how wide that front flat piece was. I thought it would look weird if the flat surace was 2 inches wide and the coverstrip covering the seam was 20mm wide. Despite searching I can only find someone doing a TE helmet build. Which weirdly enough this kit I bought did not come with a TE helmet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 You take the 20mm and cut it in half. So each part of the flat shin is 10mm. Then you butt join them by putting the cover strip on. You'll need a long metal ruler to clamp down so you can trim the straight line with the exacto. Go to home depot and get yourself some cut-resistant gloves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shwarzwald Posted December 30, 2016 Author Share Posted December 30, 2016 Ok so pictures are worth a thousand words . As shown below is a mock up for sizing. At most I would need to straighten the cuts out a bit, but otherwise this is what it would look like when I glued down the coverstrip. As you can see on either side of the coverstrip there is a bit more flat area. Now my concern was that is that too much material showing under the coverstrip? If not then I'll clean the lines up and get to gluing. On a side note I would agree about the glove. Cutting the top of your thumb is very inconvenient. It take forever to type messages out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 Because you haven't cut off the extra plastic. Measure from the edge of the raised portion 10mm and draw a line. Do this on both sides. Clamp a metal ruler and cutt off the material past the 10mm. When you put the outter and inner shin pieces together it'll equal 20mm flat portion which will be covered with a 20mm finishing strip. This is called butt joining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 This explains exactly what I am talking about perfectly: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/?p=462538 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shwarzwald Posted December 30, 2016 Author Share Posted December 30, 2016 If I cut down the front any more it will have a large gap in the back. His guide is using a kit that was given extra material. All I have done is trim the molding off. Apparently a TE kit runs a bit small on shin width. That being said. Do I cut the front down a bit so the coverstrip covers the flat spot and just make some sort of shim for the rear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 You might need to find a sweet spot to compromise the front and back. Whatever so you don't have a gap in the rear. I ended up buying AM2.0 shins and thighs so I had more than enough. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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