keith

Thanks Rolf, glad you are happy with them. Thats a photo of my mic tip that i took a while ago. I don't offer them for sale though, sorry. You can always cut your own slots in though, as the ones i offer are hollow and easy to cut through. Here are some more photos of my mic tip Its a really clean 1st gen casting of a real one. Once again, sorry i won't be offering them for sale: Keith.

I make the mics for RT-MOD. Unpainted and with no base caps. I make them for his helmet kits though, i had no idea he was also selling them separately. Keith.

If you wanted to fit them the same as the originals were fitted, you could do it in around two minutes. Just screw a small section of threaded rod part way into the base of the mic tip, fit it to the helmet and screw a nut on the inside. To be accurate to the originals, there shouldn't be anything behind the mic tip, just a threaded rod sticking out of the back of it. Keith.

It could be a move along helmet. There were two Keith.

Most were all white on the inside (or off white), painted black on the outside with silver, unpainted stainless steel mesh screens. Some were all white on the inside with the mesh screens painted black (the move along helmet was like this). There is at least one helmet, a hero helmet, that has the inside walls of the mic tips painted all black and with the screens painted black. Some mic tips in the Tantive IV scenes were all white and only painted black around the bottom base section of the mic. If you are trying to copy a specific helmet from screen shots and the mesh screens look like they are mounted quite far back, then the screens are probably painted black, as all screens are mounted near the front. Keith.

don't worry too much if the screw goes all the way through. one of the real helmets i've seen had screws/threaded rod that had punched through and could be seen through the mesh screens. keith

THE best news i've heard in a long time. Well done javamonkey Keith.

Great looking helmet Paul. Trim the right ear some more though. I can understand why Gino would think the face is recast. Some of the much more easy parts to sculpt look a bit off to me, but the face which has got to be the hardest thing in the wolrd to get right looks very, very close. That probably just means you have spent much more time on the face though. If only i could sculpt as good as you! I wish you would spend more time on the "hero" ROTJ version or the Biker Scout helmet though, as there are ANH/ESB helmets all over the place. I have come to the conclusion that no ROTJ helmet has ever been molded, just ANH molds reworked. I would love to be proved wrong, but i've not seen anything that looks even close to the funny ear version of the ROTJ trooper helmet yet. Anyway, as i said, it looks great Keith.

Soon i hope, but i will probably finish my two bumpy cap ANH helmets first. All three helmets are built, but they need painting. Keith.

Your wish is my command, lol, well not really as I only have a couple of OLD Progress pics;when I was working on my ESB trooper display, trimming, assembling and modifying. I can take more pics this week if anybody is interested. (Helmet and handguards are not Gino's.) I also have a Hero V2 helmet and from my collector point of view there is really an evolution in Gino's stuff , the stunt V1 that I received (like two or three years ago) was already super sharp and extremely well put together but the neck trim was wrong, it had no straps nor star shapped foam, bumps had been removed etc etc... For those saying that there is no difference between a Gino' V1 suit and GF or AP then I must say that I couldn't disagree more, I'm not Gino's spokes person but it's like comparing an Aston Martin and a Porsche IMHO, I'll let you guess which one I like the most. You have a **** of a lot of trooper stuff HDPE I also have one of those new Gino hero helmets. Keith.

Try filling in the damage on the front of the cap. Thats mold damage and should not be there. Should only take a few minutes to sort it out. Keith.

Yes, those tips are from me. They are my old ones that i sculpted myself before i done a deal with TE for permission to make the cast off original hovi mix tips. Keith.

The mic tips i make are not all black. They are made from pure white resin and painted black on the outside only, so the inside is still white. The mesh screens are stainless steel and are also unpainted on the mic tips i make so they are silver. Some original helmet had the mesh painted black, but i don't offer them that way. Keith.

It helps when someone takes some good photos of the orgiinal helmets Keith.

I would much rather have a helmet untrimmed than trimmed and assembled. Gives you chance to build it how you want it Keith.

Thanks I glued a circle of styrene into each ear before i painted them, so i could put blobs of hot glue on the styrene circles. That way i could glue the ears to the helmet without having to have the glue all around the edge of the ears. Thanks, Keith.

After a few weeks of hard work, i've now finished my latest ROTJ trooper helmet which i converted from a ANH helmet. Assembling the helmet how i wanted it was a LOT of work. I made the face a bit thinner and softened the details, but the hardest part was building it in such a way that the left ear would turn in towards the face. I spray painted the whole helmet inside and out in white, but not the whitest white there is, like my other helmets are painted in. I done the usual wet sanding and T-cut after the paint was fully dry, but i didn't over polish it up, so it looks just like the ABS plastic that the original ROTJ helmets were made from. Here are some pics: Keith.

Yes as Paul said, i needed acrylic/perspex so i could heat them up to form bubble lenses. Its an ROTJ helmet, not a ANH/ESB. Keith.

I've sorted it now. I spent about an hour sanding the 3mm green i had down to around 2mm or less. I only sanded one side down and made that the inside of the lens, but i buffed the inside back to its original shine anyway. I have no fingerprints left, but the lenses came out great Keith.

The fiberglass helmet is a nice looking display piece and is very cool. But for me a trooper helmet has to be vac formed and be made from the 4 main sections and with rubber brow trim. If i had one of those fiberglass helmets, i would probably paint it to look like it was made from bronze or something. Gino's replicas look fantastic and are THE best so far IMO. I would love to see one of Gino's stunts made from HDPE I disagree though that all the original helmets had all those bumps in the same places. I've seen the "move along" helmet in person and it had quite a smooth cap/back. Infact compared to the "stop that ship" helmet the "move along" cap/back was super smooth. It didn't seem to be a softer pull either, so maybe the mold was cleaned up a bit....who knows. Keith.

Thanks for your help. I will keep looking for some 2mm tinted green acrylic here in the UK. I only need a very small amount, so i don't want to pay too much for it. Chris, thanks, but it has to be acrylic/perspex so i can form it into a bubble lens. I have made green lenses before from 3mm acrylic, but it had to be heated up so much that it was melting the eye socket of the helmet. Thanks, Keith.

Does anyone know where i can buy some tinted green acrylic thats 2mm thick so i can make some ROTJ lenses? All i can find is 3mm, but that has to be heated up way too much to form into a bubble lens. Thanks, Keith.

My armour is clean, but i have made a replica "move along" helmet in the past. Some of you may know me for the stormtrooper mic tips i make. I also took a lot of photos of the original sandtrooper helmets when they were at Christies in London. I met memeber gonk27 (Jeremy) when i was at Christies and he took a lot of photos too which some of you may have seen. Thanks, Keith.

Hi, My name is Keith and i'm from the UK. Keith.