freakengine

I like it!

Shimming means you add some ABS to the gap where the parts would normally connect in the back. In the case of your thighs, I'd say you'd have to cut them open along the overlap line, then add the shim of plastic between the two pieces underneath. You could glue the shims or use industrial velcro on them if you want to be able to open them up to put them on. Either way, I'd use ABS so it'll match the suit and won't wear out easily.

I agree, you gotta get those thighs higher. It may mean shimming them to make them slightly bigger so they'll fit. You might also look into a closer fitting undersuit...looks like the fabric's bunching up over your thighs. The weathering's looking good though. You're making good progress. It just takes time to sort it all out. The first time I tried on my armor I thought it looked like ***, but I still had a long way to go.

Admit it Rolf...you just like to paint. I like #1 the best, but would like to have seen it with a little bit more dark (like in #3) for more contrast.

You don't connect the belt to your abdomen. I just pull mine tight when I put it on and it stays in place pretty well. Of course, you can connect it if you'd like, but I've never seen the need to do so. Looks like you're making good progress there!

Looking good! I like the less-is-more approach. IMHO I'd add a little more to the boots and the bottoms of the shin armor where more dirt would accumulate.

Welcome binkx! Good luck on the move.

If I understand your question correctly, I made a canvas belt that went all the way around my body with a good overlap in the back for plenty of industrial velcro. Then I just riveted the plastic belt section to the front of the canvas belt. Just make sure you use rivet backers or washers so the rivets don't pull through the canvas.

I just checked and everything is working. Just follow the link in the first post.

Great work! Your scratch-built radio is especially nice...probably the nicest scratch-built radio I've seen.

Hey Mike, your comment about the titanium scissors has piqued my interest. What's the advantage? Is it that things don't stick to the titanium?

If you can find a hardware store that sells the green flexible plastic face shields, you can cut that material with scissors and install it in an FX bucket with relative ease. If you're looking to become MEPD, you'll eventually need to convert to the green. In case you haven't looked through them, the requirements are linked up at the top of the page under "What It Takes". There's also a wealth of specific info there even if you aren't looking to get deployed.

Nice work!

I agree completely. I wish I could troop with all of you guys all the time! Every time I visit most other forums, I come running back here pretty fast. Thanks to everyone who makes this place worth visiting!

Often when I see someone's armor with some issues, I tend to remain quiet because I know how hard they worked on it this far and I don't want to hurt any feelings. Everyone has different degrees of accuracy that they want to attain and different points of view. You sound like you can take real constructive criticism, so this is what I'd fix if it were my armor: 1. Grey has become an acceptable pauldron color, but it was never in the film. Others will argue, but I prefer black, white, or orange. 2. Weather the pauldron so it matches the weathering on everything else. 3. You already mentioned your pouches are on the way, but make sure you weather them and add them to both the shoulder where your pauldron is now and the belt. 4. Lose the E-11 holster. 5. As already mentioned, wipe off some of the weathering on the high spots and dig in more weathering in the crevices. Less is more. 6. While not a necessity, I'd start adding more accurate parts to your pack. What you have looks good for a custom homemade pack, but nothing beats accuracy. This could be a long-term project that you add to over time. Overall, you probably just need to spend some time looking at caps from the films and focus on the details. Look at specific items. Congratulations for getting this far!

At this point, I'd say the only real discussion on the table is the fact that John said he'd ship a replacement out shortly after July 2. Granted he didn't have to do that, but he stated that he would so where is it? What happened?

Truly wonderful! I don't believe my dad put that much effort into anything for me, ever. You have a very lucky young man there.

This is the first I've heard of them. Most of their internal links don't lead to anything. Hmmm. Maybe they're just getting started. All in all, they seem fairly pricey to me. Internic whois lists the domain as belonging to a Bill Connelly in Edmonton Alberta Canada. He's listed as 501st on the 501st site if that helps any.

My understanding is that the TM is gloss High Impact Polystyerene (HIPS) and the TE2 is flat polystyrene (Is it HIPS as well, anyone?). I've heard the gloss stock isn't commonly available in the US. When I was shopping, I found that the AP kit shipped was almost as much as the TM helmet completed and shipped (minus mic tips/liner, etc.). The TM helmet is a beautiful piece, and a good deal to boot. Some folks find the provenance of AP and TE2 to be more valuable. I suppose it just boils down to what you like best and what you find most valuable to you. I looked into RT-mod too. His is a good original sculpt. I just liked the TM sculpt better. Again, just opinion.

I think you'll find that the 4 oz. bottles will contain WAY more than you'll use...unless you plan on the dipped-in-chocolate look.

TM all the way. I have a TM helmet that I use with modded FX armor and I'm very happy with it.

Welcome to the sand dunes, everyone!

Wow. You're doing some awesome work there. How did you get rid of the wood grain that often shows through black paint, even if primed? I've had that problem with my own scratch builds and I'm told a product called Mod Podge works well for sealing before painting, but I've yet to try it.

Looking good, Rob!

Thanks for posting the pics, geordie. Are there more, anyone?