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Everything posted by 1970s

  1. Hello All, Today I found Leather MP40 Sandtrooper Shoulder Pouch on ebay for $45.00. This is the Item Number - 190051189452 of the Buy It Now - and the Sellers Handle is keith7524fnl I paided $59.00 with shipping - He's in Hong Kong and I live in CT, USA. He is a dealer in WWII German Reproduction Stuff and I see he has already relisted another set and probably has more. Thanks, Jack Vartuli RedFox@optonline.net
  2. Thanks Paul - I'll try that. Dear Rolf, Try connecting the upper back plate to the middle back plate with 2 elastic straps - I works great on my armor. See pictures below. Thanks, Jack v. RedFox@optonline.net
  3. Dear Paul, You know what's funny about that lower leg - it will not stay straight forward when you are wearing it - it turns to your outside (my left) for some reason - it makes it hard to take a nice straight on picture of the armor when it's being worn. thanks, jack v. RedFox@optonline.net
  4. Dear Paul, If you notice on my Lower left leg - (on the top of the shin armor) the angle is very extreme! It looks bad on photos but worse in reality! Thanks, jack v. RedFox@optonline.net
  5. I think yours look fine - but if you are set on trimming it - I would only do very little at a time - so as too make sure there is no mistake. Here are a few pictures I have of my SDS Sides. Thanks, Jack Vartuli RedFox@optonline.net
  6. You must be very skinny my friend! Thanks, jack
  7. You got that right - I learned the hard way! One thing I'll say about his armor though - I purchased it when it was a lot cheaper than it is now - IT IS NOT ACCURATE TO ANH AT ALL! BUT - for a set of armor it was well put together - a nice snap system + velcro - also, he glued area's closed like the front of leggs and arms - and the velcro closure is in the back of them - better assembly than most kits at a cheaper price (atleast at the time I bought it) He also used a lot of Large stretch Black Elastic - not the small thin strips you see with most kits. The one thing I really liked was the Ab plate and the lower back plate met at your sides - leaving NO opening like GF and AP (unless your extremly skinny like Mike). Thanks, jack RedFox@optonline.net
  8. I'm glad you could see what I'm talking about - it took a while for them to get it. It is real ******** when your spending $800.00! They did make good on it and I sent it back and they replaced it - so I have nothing to complain about. I owned GF armor - that I had built up - they built the helmet up 100 times better and with more care than they did at SDS! GF was trying to make something nice for what you were paying for - not just something thrown together like SDS does. Thanks, jack v RedFox@optonline.net
  9. Dear Chris, I think it's really crappy that SDS put the helmet together so badly for you. I purchased the Trooper Stunt helmet ($800 version) and it came really badly put together. The worst part too - was the left side eye hole (right side if you are wearing the helmet) was cut out really badly - there was a large opening that the green lense material did not lye smoothly against. I couldn't get over it. It bugged me every time I looked at the Helmet. So I wrote them and when back and forth sending them pictures of the problem. They had me send the helmet back and the sent me a better one. I say better then it was but not a perfect helmet. I have a picture below of the eye hole that was cut too large. In the second picture you can see the negative space more - that was the problem when I complained about this was it's hard to see in digital photos. Thanks, Jack v. RedFox@optonline.net
  10. Here's one I found in completed on ebay: Try writing to top bidder - maybe he'll let it go? Thanks, jack v. http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Boy-Scout-1 ... dZViewItem
  11. Thanks for all the nice comments guys. jack v. Redfox@optonline.net
  12. I'ld like to see it first - but count me in. Thanks, jack v.
  13. Hey guys, I've been working on my Backpack bellows and connetor. The Bellows is an MDK - the seperate sections were seperated like the one on a marmit kit - I cut those out and reconnected them together. The upper connector I made out of a Sear's Vacuum nossle, some Flat Styrene plastic that I warped with a heat gun, and a lot of Bondo. I have just started to connect the parts and have just added some bondo to make the connection look more smooth. I hope to start sanding that rough bondo tonight or tomorrow. Let me know what you think. Please be patient - the pic's might take a couple of minutes to load. Thanks, Jack V. RedFox@optonline.net
  14. Thanks Rolf, That helped - I was kind of lost. Jack v.
  15. Guys - I'm a little lost here - are we talking about the rounded lower edge that start at the Hovi Mix Mic tips and goes around the helmet? My GF was a hero that I turned into a Stunt. Thanks, jack
  16. Dear Rolf, Don't know if these pictures help because I don't totally understand the question. This is my GF helmet. Thanks, jack v. RedFox@optonline.net
  17. Hey Guys, Send me your email address and I will email them. thanks, jack v. RedFox@optonline.net
  18. I wasn't sure if they did the backs cheaper and overlapped them. Thanks guys. jack v.
  19. Dear Paul, Do the strips go on just the front or both the front and backs of all the parts you mentioned above? Thanks, Jack Vartuli RedFox@optonline.net
  20. Dear Rolf, I just went back and read the entire thread - the reason the stripps stopped above the trim (that is above the knee) is because that edge is slightly raised there and rounded. It would have been impossible to make the strips go to the bottom. Look closely at ANH pictures and you will see this. Most kit armors are copied from Jedi armor - this area has been cut and flattend to overlap. You can see that in my SDS kit and I know GF was like this and what I've seen of AP armor its the same too. When you cut stripps and add them on this type of armor the problem is - that area is still flat and not rounded and slightly raised like the original in ANH. When I see pictures of TE armor it looks like he has compensated for this when he made his armor - to make it correct. If you look at Mikes photo reference picture above you will see what I'm talking about. I believe he owns TE armor too and could tell us if it is done correctly on his kit. TrooperMaster also has done this correctly in his armor. I hope this helps. thanks, jack v. RedFox@optonline.net
  21. Dear Rolf, I own SDS armor - when I got it - the strips went down all the way to the bottom. I hated this because it is not like ANH. So I used a modeling Saw and cut a line, above the bottom trim of the upper leg armor. Then I sanded down the Strip below. I did it this way because the person who put the armor together at SDS did a sloppy job of cutting out the legs and the right and left sides were not flush underneath the added stripps. When I felt it was down enough to make a visual difference - I used and exacto knife to cut a part line in the plastic to look like a right and left side to the armor. The problem with all of this is - SDS like my former armor GF and I believe your armor Ap - is flat down there (above the knee). If you look at ANH pictures the armor is rounding above the knee at this joint. See my pictures below. Thanks, jack vartuli redfox@optonline.net
  22. If you want to remove hot glue (glue gun glue) get Bestine Solvent thinner - avaible in most Art stores and Craft stores - it removes the hold of the glue immediatly. Just where gloves when you use it. Thanks, jack v. redfox@optonline.net
  23. I just saw your link and purchased it online from JC Whitney Co. thanks, jack v
  24. Could I purchase one from you. Thanks, jack Varuli RedFox@optonline.net
  25. [ Here are the rest. Thanks, jack v. RedFox@optonline.net {SMILIES_PATH}/salute.gif
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