nick.black

No neither did I and it resulted in me having to trim and re-glue some sections afterwards. No biggy just wanted to make you aware of it. Nick

One tip I would give you is, when making the styrene (or whatever material you are using) detailing for the stuff that is attached to the main body, make sure you leave a decent gap between everything, as mine was constructed flush, and then when the weapon was stored in a warm closet it expanded and created some warping. Just a heads up! Nick

That is looking great Mike, really impressive. I must admit I had great fun making my T-21, and the sense of achievement when it was complete was wonderful. Terry's tutorial is also a fantastic guide and I wouldnt have even begun to contemplate making mine without that valuable resource, so big up to him for that. Nick

I actually made my own swivel from a caribena type o ring with a screw closure, mounted with a piece of aluminium bar over the top of it. The sling fits through it just nicely and you can't even tell it isn't a real swivel mount to be honest. Nick

Well I got one of these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LEE-ENFIELD-303-SMLE-RIFLE-SLINGS-GREEN-/330565603648?pt=UK_Collectables_Militaria_LE&hash=item4cf73ed140 and it arrived today. And here it is attached to the weapon, comparison with the old 2 tan slings. One step closer to being screen accurate I suppose. Thanks for looking Nick

OK here she is with a good lathering of Black Fabric Dye that I got for £1.98. Looks good to go I think. Thanks for looking Nick

Cool Terry, You got any images of your collection? Nick

Arrived in the post this morning fresh from Ebay (this listing http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GERMAN-ARMY-WW2-MP40-AMMO-AMMUNITION-POUCHES-MP-40-/360330760594?pt=UK_Collectables_Militaria_LE&hash=item53e5631192) I think they look pretty good. The small tool pouch placement seems to be good too. Once padded out with some wooden blocks inside they look pretty neat. Ive got some black fabric dye I am going to treat them with, and then of course they will get weathered slightly for the build. Nick

Thanks for the responses guys, and it means alot for you more senior members of MEPD to post your comments for us guys just starting out. I've painted the blaster now and wanted to share with you a comparison with my previous Doopydoos PVC pipe build. The PVC one has BlastTech rubber T-tracks but apart from that all is resin parts and a pvc pipe barrell. I have lighlty weathered the new E-11 but will take it a little more when I get my armor and weather that. I also need to do another coat of paint on the bolt and add a sight reticle on the scope but apart from that I think we are there. Add this to my little growing armoury LOL. The 2 side by side Weathering on the left side And the right Good shot showing the allen bolts in the barrell and weathering on the muzzle Here's a comparison between my old Doopydoos Kit and the new one with proper allen bolts added. Big difference in quality huh? I made myself a D-ring out of some wire that came with my Syphon Im using for my backpack The mag is shorter on this newer model than on the old resin parts So there it is I hope this gives an insight into the new Doopydoos kit and how good it is, and can inspire you to build one if you had second thoughts originally. Many thanks for looking Nick

Well done Noel Congratulations, I had a little boy on 28th April so I know the emotions you are going through right now. Nick

Thanks Juan. I was thinking this was the way to go. I was looking into getting an airbrush going but that was gonna cost me money. I have a model shop not too far away which sells the 50ml tins of 47 so I can easily do that. Thanks mate. Nick

Am I correct in thinking that the best way to attach shoulder bells is to have braces of webbing (that are holding up your ab/kidney plate) running underneath your white elastic shoulder straps and to place a pop in that brace that the shoulder bell will attach too? I cannot think of any other way to do this other than by creating a pop inside the under side of the elastic shoulder strap, which will involve sewing a doouble piece, and will result in this elastic being bent outwards holding up the shoulder bells. Of course for a TK it is simple to put a popper inside the webbing holding front to back of the chest armour, cos it is covered with the shoulder straps, but for a TD this would show through the white elastic straps. Can anyone share their method of doing this please as Im curious. Many thanks Nick

I've tried 2 cans of spray paint that I got that were designed for cars, and the lids looked pretty close to the lid of the humbrol no.47 tin I took along to compare. I tried Lada Adriatic Blue and Ford Wedgewood Blue (both from UK) and they were both very blue, not even close to what the lid showed and not even close to the Humbrol 47 I tested them against. I am resigned to painting my parts by hand with Humbrol I feel. Nick

Hi guys and gals, I just wanted to share with you all some pics of my current Doopydoos E-11 build. I previously had a PVC Pipe E-11 with Doopydoos parts, when I saw the all resin version they have just released http://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp I wanted to have a go at making one with a counter and targetting cylinders, and weathering it for use with my Sandtrooper when I get it done. The kit itself is very good, a few imperfections but these are easily solved with a bit of sanding and filling. The main thing I wanted to show was how to replace the bolts in the barrell with real allen bolts. For those of you in the UK you will need to get these http://www.screwfix.com/p/bzp-head-socket-cap-screw-m6-x-16mm-pack-of-50/78505 or something similar from another shop. I won't bore you with the rest of the build as there are numerous tutorials out there on how to do that, but for the bolts I simply started to drill the old area out, starting with a very small drill bit and working my way up, taking care to drill slowly and steadily so as not to crack the resin. You do meet some resistance from the PVC pipe that is installed inside but this is easily remedied with either a file or a stanley knife to cut away the excess. I found that I over drilled a bit because the bolts are slightly larger than the hole for them in the muzzle so I had to go back with some filler and patch up. I cut the bolts off with a dremel so that I could simply glue them in place. Then with them cut they get glued with E6000 to hold them in place and the full effect can be seen. The whole thing is primed and then painted silver with 3 coats, which I will then cover with probably 1 coat of black so as to make it easier to do some weathering and expose the silver underneath. As I have seen with some other previous builds the scope is hand painted with Gold Humbrol paint I had left over to reflect accuracy. Hope you like. I will post pictures of the finished version when I get it painted black in the next few days. Nick

Bugger, shame I couldn't be there! Nick

Can you enter the raffle online or only at the NSC? Nick

Sweet that's good enough for me. I couldn't be sure from the screen caps and I am making mine from scratch from scrap 2mm clear plastic so wanted it to be as accurate as possible. Thanks for the help. Nick

Can I ask, reference the toolbox, is it supposed to have an overlap lid or should it be a solid rectangular box if it can be? I see people generally do an overlap lid, but can't tell from the reference pics whether that is screen accurate or not. Can anyone help clear it up for me please? Thanks Nick

Hiya there does anyone know why these files can no longer be downloaded? I am desperate to get hold of them again as .pdf files. Or if anyone can PM or email them to me if you have them stored anywhere would be wonderful. Many thanks. Nick

Wonderful mate that's super. I'll definitely look into that. Cheers buddy. Nick

Can I ask Dave, the secret of how you make the sticker mark on the pauldron? Pretty please Nick

Wahayy congrats Brad, well done mate. Thoroughly deserved. Nick

No I totally appreciate that. I just wondered if the armour would look too plasticy and not like armour if it wasnt buffed up before being weathered. I guess I can just see when it arrives and go with the flow. Just wondered if anyone else had done so and if they had experienced any problems with such as the weathering not sticking to the armour if it has been polished etc. Thanks for all the feedback guys, much appreciated as always. Nick

Now here's another question then. Should I polish the armor before weathering it? I feel this would be more accurate to how it was before it was left to rot on Tatooine I guess, but will polished armor be easy to acrylic weather? Nick

Cool thanks for that, I wasn't sure. Nick