maj_hassel

While a level of civility definitely needs to be maintained, I'm happy that there is some level of debate as to the origins of these props. Essentially, when we pore over photos and scour eBay and other places for similar items we are, in a sense archeologists--or at least art historians. If you think the behavior on these forums is bad you should read about the debates and feuds over prehistoric ape fossils.; mortal enemies were created. I don't know where I'm going with this, but the thing that I originally wanted to say is...thanks. Thanks to all of those who have devoted their time and energy to come up with the information--whether it's disputed or not. Arrogance and egos aside, the debates do make for an interesting read. I'd also like to say that, honestly, I hope we never find out what all of the components actually were. Otherwise this forum will be nothing more than a place for people to post pictures of their 100% screen-accurate, cookie-cutter TS rigs; how boring would that end up being?

I used the American Accents slate blue as well. I was having a hard time finding something to use for the big bottle at the bottom. I finally ended up using a big bottle of non-dairy creamer which I had to chop down a bit. The only downside was that when I hotglued the end-cap (dessert cup base) on the heat warped the plastic of the bottle (the plastic is pretty thin). So, after filling in the wrinkles with Bondo, I ended up with a decent enough bottom cannister. I know I could have sanded down the Bondo a little better, but I plan on covering the bottle with a layer of grime so a little texture is actually preferable. Here's a pic:(Note: The bottle I'm talking about is on the right. The other bottle was a Lysol wipes cannister which has yet to be cut down to a proper height.)

I was one of those poor souls who shelled out for an ice tube . Unfortunately, it was too wide for my end caps (AP kit). What I ended up doing--waste not, want not--was slicing it lengthwise, and then rolling down to the right diameter. I then riveted it in place and painted it. It came out great. The seam will be facing inwards when it's mounted on the backpack so no worries. BTW, the tube hasn't been cut down to a proper length yet.

I found the containers that hold the Lysol wipes to work pretty good as well. You do have to cut them down a little bit because they are on the tall side. You can find these wipes for about $2.00-$3.00 each. You might be able to find generic versions for even cheaper. This way at least you have something to clean your place with. I don't know, maybe you need all that Metamucil.

Eventually I'm sure. I'm just giving the part numbers for the pieces that I have. I think the purpose of this thread is to amass the numbers from those who have them and then compile them after we have them all. Hopefully, when all the part numbers are collected the list will be posted as a sticky thread on here. Oh btw, I came across another part. Hamburger form and containers: Tupperware 882-2 I should note that the containers are flat and on the backpacks there is a domed top to them. If anyone knows what they used for the domed part please let us know.

I don't know if this thread is still active or if certain part numbers are still being sought, but I do have the serial number for the dessert cups. Tupperware 754-5 I hope this helps.

The good news is that eBay is saturated with these things.

I think I might go the same route. I already bought the Ice Tube anyway, right? Besides having the Ice tube as opposed to a length of PVC pipe hanging off the pack will make a significant difference in regards to weight. Thanks for the tip!!

So, the diameter of the detonator tube (2 1/2") is the same diameter as the mortar tube on the backpack? I just want to confirm before I go out to Home Despot and by PVC tubing.

I'm almost finished putting together the components for a pack and I'm curious if the Ice Tube I bought months ago is the way to go. It seems to have the right diameter but the caps are obviously different from the on-screen caps. The detonator plate I have (AP) came with a cut of PVC pipe which has a diameter of (approx) 2 1/2" or 6 cm. It seems a bit thin to me. Are there custom vacformed caps that will fit on an Ice Tube? If any of you used PVC pipe instead I'm curious as to what size you used. If any of you used the Ice Tube I'm curious as to what solutions you came up as far as the ends are concerned. Thanks in advance for any replies.

As far as I can tell you're right. I must have been looking at a fan-built prop instead of real one. Nice screen-captures BTW. I wonder if there's anyone who's going to try to replicate the frayed thread coming of the front strap - LOL!

From what I've seen of prop shots, the tubing ends with a small collar on the side closest to the barrel opening. I could easily be wrong too. Looking at the screenshots and with the knowledge that the prop crews foraged parts from places like aviation junkyards, I'm assuming that the actual tubing used was some kind of dust cover (an example of a dustcover can be found on some shock absorbers) or boot. It could also be some sort of fitting like this flexible isolation tube http://www.envproduct.com/catpicflexibletube.jpg. I'm sure we'll never know what was the actual part that got used but for costuming purposes the irrigation pipe works well enough.

I went with the irrigation pipe route. The only problem is that you usually have to buy a 10' length of the pipe (there might be places that offer cuts - I don't know) and it tends to be imprinted with manufacturing information. It's also a larger circimfrence than the gun, at least it was on my Hyperfirms. I had to cut a slit down the length of the pipe, and then slid it over my gun, overlapped the edges until it was snug, and then measured and cut off the excess pipe. I used sun/weather-resistant electrical tape all over to hold it together and cover up the print that was embossed on the pipe. It's a bit shiny so I might give it a coat of spray on rubber coating (Plasti-Dip) to dull it a little and smooth out some of the wrinkles in the tape. Here are some pictures of the gun with the tape but without the coating so you get an idea how it will look on the gun: I hope this give you some idea of what your gun will look like if you use the drainpipe method as opposed to the wrapped cable method. Good luck!!

Thanks!!Time to start cutting some more ABS....

I have a trooper kit built by *AP* and, according to the instructions, for screen accuracy it says to use velcro on the back of the thigh pieces and a 7/8" strip of ABS over the front seam. I did the strip method for the front but am wavering about how I'm going to close the back. How many of you who own a non-FX kit have done this as opposed to gluing the back seam? Did the real, on-screen TKs have velcro holding the back of their thigh pieces together? I could easily go either way, but I'm curious as to the most popular method. TIA for any input!!

Thank you for all you've done for the hobby. Your work will always be the pride of everyone's collection. I'm lucky to have had the opportunity to obtain some of your craftsmanship in the final days of your production run. I never knew you as a friend but you obviously mean a lot to those who have, so your attitude can't be all that bad. Remember: The past is over and the future hasn't happened yet, so there's no point in fretting over either of them. Take care of yourself and thank you. P.S. Have you ever given any thought to Star Trek? --I'm kidding!!

The Boy Scout frames I've seen are around 9" longer than the Alice pack frames, so maybe a BSA frame might be what you're looking for. There's an auction for one here: http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-BOY-SCOUTS-OF-...QrdZ1QQcmdZView Item://http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-BOY-SCO...QQcmdZView Item The frames used must have either been custom built, which I doubt considering the budget Lucas had at the time, or some type of British or African (Tunisia) frame they had access to. Good luck in your search!

I have seen a few Swedish M39 ammo pouches of late. I refurbished one for myself and just recently found and dyed one for irob972. They originally come in a tan color but can easily be dyed black. As I was in the middle of writing this post I found a similar one on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/US-Ammo-Bag-Pouch-Carl...ViewItem#ebayph otohosting://http://cgi.ebay.com/US-Ammo-Bag-Pou...ayph otohosting Check this link to see how I modified Mine: http://home.earthlink.net/~tk7708/New%20Pouch/ The best thing to do is just type "ammo pouch" in the search box on eBay. You'll see that they come in all shapes and sizes, just find one that suits you. I'd stick with leather as opposed to canvas--for authenticity's sake. I hope this helps. Good luck on your hunt!!

It's looking like I am going to end up setling for a 75%-85% screen accurate backpack as I just can't see shelling out for a MDK backpack until I've given it the old college try myself. Here are some parts that I've found to work pretty good. For the bottles: The cannisters which contain Lysol Wipes work well and are easier to find than water bottles with the right diameter. Cheaper too. As for the bellowed sleeve which fits over the bottle I imagine some sort of dust boot off of a piece of machinery was originally used. I am going with the TK409 recommended foot pumps. I managed to pick up a few of these off eBay and am happy with their appearance. I had to cut off the bottom and stretch it out a bit with a hair dryer. The top isn't as domed as the original but I'm sure that could be remedied with a cut-down Tupperware bowl or even molded with some sort of putty. I'm still looking for something to replicate the rubber cup-like piece that goes between the pump and the bottle. TK409 recommends small plastic bowls (inverted) but there has to be some rubber part which is more accurate. Any ideas? In regards to the air filters, I once read of a science supply shop that sells air filters in all shapes and sizes. Unfortunately, I don't have the link and if anyone else does please post it.

You may be right. It looks like something is attached to the butt or else the stock has a unique shape to it. Hard to tell. Irregardless, I think that's the method I'm going to use for mine. I'll have a small leather loop with a D-ring attached by a swivel and then the rest will be the normal long strap with a loop. While it may be not stand up to the utmost canonical scrutiny, it definitely beats punching holes in a fairly expensive prop. Who knows, maybe I'll attach a small pouch to the butt as well, just to give it a little flair.

You're asking us to put your butt in a sling? I know, I know bad joke...I just couldn't help myself. Besides, I don't even know if that joke translates well overseas. I don't know, would a D-ring in an airmail envelope cost that much to send? I'll have to look into it after all of this holiday hoopla is over. There's possible good news for us Hyperfirm owners: upon close examination of the screenshots from ANH, it looks as if there is a second leather loop which goes around the butt. This, if it exists, might have been done to avoid damaging the actual guns which were, I'm assuming, on loan to Lucas for the shots. Here's some pics which show, what I believe to be, a second leather loop: First a close up of the butt... ...and here's some enhanced pictures Any opinions?

Thanks!!

I've trimmed up my ANH kit and the shoulder pieces are a little narrow for my shoulders. I've heard of them referred to as "pinched" but I didn't know what that meant until I tried to slip one over my arm. I don't want to trim them too much, even though the gap would be covered by a pouch I'd like it to look as normal without one as I can. I'd like to minimize the gap between the chest/back plates and the shoulders. Is there a way to widen them? Anyone else have/had this problem?

I plan on going strapless as well (it sounds so risqué) and am working out the logistics of how to do it. I'm thinking about sewing some webbing or cloth straps into 2 "T-shaped" pieces, each with a snap at the end. The crossbar of the "T" would connect the chest plate to the back plate and the long post of the "T" would run down and connect the shoulder and bicep pieces together. This is what I've come up with so far. If there's any better solutions I'm all ears.

One thing I'm curious about, if you have a Hyperfim Lewis (T-21...sorry) and would like to have it look as screen accurate as possible, how would you attach the strap to the butt of the rifle without drilling or damaging the rifle? I'd like to run the strap through one of those "D" shaped clips like in the movie but don't know how I should affix it to the soft rubber.