stukatrooper

The Fibreglass has three thick gel coats to pick up all the details heres some pics of mine. I have added the box and some other small parts to make it 100%.It came weathered to my spec and the paint is super hard. The plate under the pistol grip i think is whats left of the leather sling. Hes new sterlings are also cast from the real deal.

Rolf,these are fibreglass props and are very light.I have the second MG34 from hes moulds last year.Very detailed every nut and bolt even the part numbers show in the cast. I posted about it last year also. http://www.mepd.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2740

Hi,you could build your own blaster its alot of fun This is my scratch build or you could grab a kit from this UK maker http://www.doopydoos.com/star-wars-props-a...plicas-31-c.asp Hes very good and a top bloke,i get most of my bits from him.

acetone!!!! I think thats way over the top mate. Why not just leave the paint you already have on the suit as a base.sand the whole suit with wet and dry,then go with your humbrol. The acetone will make one **** of a mess.If your first paint job is good ,smooth then just prep it for the humbrol you are going to use.Go for smooth paper then super smooth that will give you a great key for the final paint.

i see your shadow Rolf but not you in the picture

Student you say,well you are no student when it comes to helmet building and weathering.Very profesional looking job and if thats a HPDE TE lid then an even better job on a tricky material.

Im sure if you have made an FX conversion kit from TK to TD they will go down a storm Paul.Will save a lot of time and head aches for most troopers.top marks mate.

Now thats so sweet,super detail.I will def have one if i can find a state side hoping point then to the United Kingdom

Fantastic, i thought this project was dead and its great to see the revival of a casting of this weapon.Please keep us all posted of your progress.Thanks for the pics

the father of the machine gun.Hiram Maxim In 1881 the American inventor, Hiram Maxim, visited the Paris Electrical Exhibition. While he was at the exhibition he met a man who told him: "If you wanted to make a lot of money, invent something that will enable these Europeans to cut each other's throats with greater facility." Maxim moved to London and over the next few years worked on producing an effective machine-gun. In 1885 he demonstrated the world's first automatic portable machine-gun to the British Army. Maxim used the energy of each bullet's recoil force to eject the spent cartridge and insert the next bullet. The Maxim Machine-Gun would therefore fire until the entire belt of bullets was used up. Trials showed that the machine-gun could fire 500 rounds per minute and therefore had the firepower of about 100 rifles. The Maxim Machine-Gun was adopted by the British Army in 1889. The following year the Austrian, German, Italian, Swiss and Russian armies also purchased Maxim's gun. The gun was first used by Britain`s colonial forces in the Matabele war in 1893-94. In one engagement, fifty soldiers fought off 5,000 Matabele warriors with just four Maxim guns. The success of the Maxim Machine-Gun inspired other inventors. The German Army's Maschinengewehr and the Russian Pulemyot Maxima were both based on Maxim's invention. In 1912 the British Army transferred its loyalties to the Vickers Gun and lighter Lewis Gun. However, in the First World War, several of the minor European armies continued to use the Maxim Gun. Fire power check out the guys shoulder when firing the MG 34 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDfglolql2Q

most ref pics to be found here.http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/davin/replica_weapons2.html

Hers my TE lid painted and weathered with just pastals rubbed in.

I have been in contact with the guinness book of records,and they say that they will have soon a section for you my friend. Joking apart ,that would be one giant step you would be taking in painting your TM armour there would be no turning back from that move.You must have thought long and hard about this big Decision and have confidence in your skills to go ahead with it.

I remember a post on this forum somewere about someone knowing what was used on the ANH 1977 armour.If anyone can find this thread should post Rolf the link. Im sure it stated that a mix of Creosote and sand was used.Now Creosote is a brown ,black colour and being a liquid you can vary the tone and shade of the weathering. I think your mark three reflects the look that creosote would have left.The problem that we all find from looking at the old photos is the non consistent colour of them all.Some are super saturated and others washed out with white,all they can truly offer is the amount of weathering from suit to suit. Anyway that all said stick with three mate ,i think we all would like to see it in the all together against that famous grey wall of yours.

Like the break down of the armour in these pictures give a great insight into the build and a chance of a close study of the outstanding quality .I must say that knowing this it the third weathering of this suit ,what you are achieving by doing this is to give a very natual look just as the elements do to objects subtale layer apone layer. Also this shows the strength of the armour ,not all that is available would stand up to three attacks at the surface.Nice one cant wait to see the full kit on with backpack pouches and "SB pauldron"

Blimy guys the quality of turn out on this glorious forum just blows anything out there away.Im not sure if its coz i have a real bias to the sandy or not,but that takes nothing away from the fact that this band of troopers that gather here keep raising the bar time after time. well done to you all,it must be said that you guys inspire alot of peeps to go that little bit further to produce a first class costume.

all the above quotes mate and then some good on you!

Good old elbow grease mate,that way you have full control .Buffers are good for metal but on plastic way to heavy ,the t cut takes away the over spray and blends the paint coats .hope that helps

I get your point but i always would go for the best finish as a base then the weathering will take away the just spit and polished look but still maintain the shine under the dirt,check out the screen sandy

I have in the past layed down the paint to thick on a project and have found that a sand down with wet and dry if really bad then a real polishing setion with t-cut.This will bring any paint job to a pro finish.If its not to bad then just t-cut compound will get rid of any over spry and enhance the paint finish to super gloss.If you want to even better then i have used abs polish novus2 and after that weathered.Hope this helps,you cant rush a good paint job time and Patience are your friends.

Just been on look sir droids and see they have a new section check it out. http://www.looksirdroids.com/hd_caps/index.htm

OHH trooper,You have out done yourself on this mark2.Look how the armour has come to life,its almost 4 dimensional if thats posible and thats just looking at photos in front of your now famous wall. The guys are right in saying weathering is such a personal thing,and yourself in saying when do you stop.Well i for one think now is a good time to put down the pallet knife ,stand back and enjoy what you have created .A beautiful set of armour enhanced by the time and effort of your hand and eye. I think reading back i like it lol.

all is explained here my friend,you dont glue the snaps to your armour you use will see. http://www.tonybarnett.plus.com/snaps.html

I am real glad you have decided to re do your fantastic suit.its easy for others to sit back and pull apart troopers work,but its for the artist to decide whats right and wrong and you are right lol. Dirt and weathering are a build up of layers,parts of the armour that are hard to clean get darker with age and gather more and more.So the recesses have got to be the darkest colour and heaviest. the area such as chest and top of legs lighter but pron to scratches.i have found that using part of the helmet neck trim rubber makes great scatch marks and lines,it rubs of easy and being rubber does not harm your suit.just use a corner of the rubber and swip it across the high points its great. Anyway glad to hear your reworking the beloved TM and for one cant wait to see how it turns out.

Now thats more like it ,Very very nice out in the natural light.Boy that red wall just eats up the detail you put into your suit.maybe time for a spot of decorating ?