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a source for black mp-40 pouches.......


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  • 1 month later...

I have the Norwegian green MP-40 pouches, but dyed black. I would really, almost kill for the original leather MP-40 pouch with the extra 'loader' pouch, but they're virtually impossible to find. Perhaps Braksbuddy has horded them all?? Seeker Arturo says that he's taken the Norwegian one and modified it to look like the original. Anyone else been able to pull this off??

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  • 2 weeks later...

YES< I have thoughts. When working with leather, you can "cuir bolli" the things and get EXCELLENT results.

But before I start explaining how, let me please reitterate my feelings that, As a WWII re-enactor and Living Historian, I highly stress that if you are just costuming, get reproduction or after-market post-war pouches! PLEASE do not ruin origional war-time or origional issue pieces of history!!

Anyway, to work with leather.

1). Indeed, insert a piece of wood about a centimeeter or two larger than the magazine you will be holding. Fill all mag holders with said wood slabs and leave them in the pouch for next step.

2). Then toss the leather into a sink or tub at aproximately 120 degrees or just damned HOT and let them soak ONLY LONG ENOUGH to let the color darken a little. DO NOT SOAK THOROUGHLY!

3). Remove pouches from water. If you were molding the leather into a band new design, usually this is when you start working with it, but since youre only resizing an existing cavity, then leave dry in normal room-temperature in an area not too moist. IE take out of the bathroom if thats where you soaked them. Set them on a towel on the dining room table or stand next to the TV. LEAVE WOOD IN THEM. If pouch closures have single snap, snap it closed and let dry. BE PREPARED that you might have to replace the snaps altogether! If closures have buckle and multiple holes, leave it open.

4). Over the next 4 hours the leather will reform to the new dimensions instigated by the wood. Let me tell you why: In the water, the leather soaks up the water, this causes the thicknes of the leather to expand. But in order for the leather to expand, it must pull mass from its height and width. In doing this, the leather will stretch over the mold (in this case the wood slats).

In drying, the water is released but the leather is maleable from its absorbsion of the water and the leather will always be a *little* thicker than before soaking. The height and width stretch over the surface molding them (the wood) and the mass begins to redistribute evenly again from thickness to hieght and width as needed. Its a Molecule thing, HOT expands, COLD shrinks. Think of how steel is tempered after a sword is forged.

NOTES: The wood you use for shaping the leather shold have the corners rounded off a bit! Otherwise undue stress to the corners will cause them to become brittle in the end, or possible break through thinner leather in the drying stage if soaked too long.

In dying leather, use a good shine/polish dye and then hit it with saddle soap for good results. Buff buff buff, hit with saddle soap again and then beat the living **** out of it and weather it you Dirty Troopers!!!!

In service,

-Jason Leather worker of some 6 years.

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It is my pleasure to be of service to other members of the Legion.

Quick EDIT:

when asked about making them look older/wrinkled....

You can stick toothpicks in with those blocks and use metal and plastic file clips on the outside to pinch the leather around the toothpicks and that will make the wrinkles permanent once its all dried.

Um, if its more of a crazing kind of thing youre after, like its old and cracking or layers are just spliting, thats pretty hard to do artificially; but possible. Remember how I said to use saddle soap? Well, saddle soap in a conditioner, it softens leather, reprairs brittle bristles in the under-skin and freshens up the face/skin. Soap Wierd stuff, but fantastic. Well, use that only in certain splotches.

Buff with a stiff-bristled brush and I mean hard, one thats like for cleaning wool. This will damage the skin causing small knicks and cuts where the saddle soap is not. Do this for a bit then flex the thing, bending it around like Richard Simmons with ants in his pants. Then hit it with some bees wax, or **** even just candle wax, again only in random splotches.

The wax will adhere more to those spots damaged by scuffing and lay with less enthusiasm in places conditioned well. When the wax dries it will have natural borders that look like the leather is coming apart in layers and it will be hard to remove or brush out through wear at places scuffed by the thick-bristled brush.

-Jason

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Any time, my friends. I am very glad to be able to contribute back to this community that was so very kind to me when I started out! Being I am into re-enacting, I know where to get good repro stuff and I also make a lot of it myself too (leather and cloth-wise). If any of you folks are having a hard time finding something or need something converted, you just let me know.

-Jason

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