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Bulldog44

Bulldog Props Scope Kit Project

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Just thought to post this here if some members here do not venture onto the FISD or RPF forums. Been working on making hollow resin scopes from my collection. Lots of trial and error along the way but starting to get better results.  Hoping to use the M38 version on my blaster when I get to that point. Still putting my armor and pack together. 

Started in March 2016-

Bulldog%20Props%20M38%20Scope%20Project%

M38%20Scope%20Parts%202016%20Revised_zps

 

 

 

Recent Castings with Smooth On Onyx-

M38%20amp%20M19%20Smooth%20On%20Onyx%20T

M19%20April%202017%20Light%20Bulb%20Cast

Posted above are test castings of the M19 light port bulb. Hardest part to cast so far but finally reached successful results. Almost no visible bubbles!!!! The M19 is not used on Bapty blasters but thought it might be of some interest for any members who are looking for an M19 for other blasters in their collection.

Both the M38 and M19 scope cylinders and all the smaller parts have been molded and casted. Some smaller parts need to be re-molded to get better results but as is, they kit is almost ready. Now in the process of casting and stocking parts to prepare complete kits and still awaiting some screws to arrive. Most of the parts screw together smoothly like the real scopes, some require a bit of sanding and persuasion. 

Please feel free to add any comments or ask questions if you have any. Thanks for stopping by! 

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Nice project. Do you do a slush casting to get a hollow cast? For the light socket bulbs you probably have to pressure cast them to get them really transparent and without bubbles.

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15 hours ago, Strider said:

Nice project. Do you do a slush casting to get a hollow cast? For the light socket bulbs you probably have to pressure cast them to get them really transparent and without bubbles.

Thank you Strider. Originally I started by slush casting but found it inconsistent since I was rotating the molds by hand. I planned on making a rotocasting machine but with no space at home I had to rethink a better way. Slush casting also limited my hopes of making the parts fit together like the original scope parts do.  I make a 3 part mold with minimal seem lines. It is easy to use but it took a great deal of trial and error to perfect the molds.......and money:sad:. It also takes me a 3-4 days to prep a new mold.  The end result is a fairly clean carbon copy of the scope both outside and inside just like the originals. 

For the light port bulb I do not have a pressure chamber for casting or a vacuum chamber for the silicone mold. So I am left with little choice on making these to spec. Getting them bubble free is tedious work but it pays off. I use a resin that has a pot life of 100 minutes so its easy to take my time. I mix thoroughly for 10 minutes, pour the resin into a tin foil pan and apply a heat gun to the surface to knock out more bubbles, then let it sit for a 5 minutes or so. Pour into molds and then remove the big bubbles with a toothpick. I then check over a 2 hour period for any new bubbles before joining the two mold halves. Then its a 3 day wait to cure! :sweat: Had 2 successful batches so far. 

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13 hours ago, henselmonster said:

Wow, looks amazing. I would be interested in both scopes!

Cool! Thanks for your interest. I started an early interest form on the FISD but will post here too if you wish to fill it out. 

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17 hours ago, Stevieboy said:

Looking nice dude.

definitely a labor of love.

good job.

Thanks! Its been a long road to get the results I wanted but yes, I love problem solving and making these.

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12 hours ago, Bulldog44 said:

Thank you Strider. Originally I started by slush casting but found it inconsistent since I was rotating the molds by hand. I planned on making a rotocasting machine but with no space at home I had to rethink a better way. Slush casting also limited my hopes of making the parts fit together like the original scope parts do.  I make a 3 part mold with minimal seem lines. It is easy to use but it took a great deal of trial and error to perfect the molds.......and money:sad:. It also takes me a 3-4 days to prep a new mold.  The end result is a fairly clean carbon copy of the scope both outside and inside just like the originals. 

For the light port bulb I do not have a pressure chamber for casting or a vacuum chamber for the silicone mold. So I am left with little choice on making these to spec. Getting them bubble free is tedious work but it pays off. I use a resin that has a pot life of 100 minutes so its easy to take my time. I mix thoroughly for 10 minutes, pour the resin into a tin foil pan and apply a heat gun to the surface to knock out more bubbles, then let it sit for a 5 minutes or so. Pour into molds and then remove the big bubbles with a toothpick. I then check over a 2 hour period for any new bubbles before joining the two mold halves. Then its a 3 day wait to cure! :sweat: Had 2 successful batches so far. 

I admire your dedication, bro. And the results definitively speak for themself! If you're doing this more often you might want to think about a pressure pot and a vacuum pump though - makes your casting life so much more easy (at least  for the transparent and the nitty gritty pieces).

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I already followed your project over at the RPF board! Really nice results and i can only applaud that much dedication!

I wish i had enough time, space and craft skills to do such amazing work!

Keep it up, mate!    :duim:

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Nice work trooper ;)

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On 5/10/2017 at 11:04 PM, Strider said:

I admire your dedication, bro. And the results definitively speak for themself! If you're doing this more often you might want to think about a pressure pot and a vacuum pump though - makes your casting life so much more easy (at least  for the transparent and the nitty gritty pieces).

I am considering a vacuum chamber and pressure chamber if I ever find a work space to set up. I have been upgrading my molds with better release spouts and testing my pouring methods with better results. Thanks again for your kind comments. 

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10 hours ago, Rolf said:

Nice work trooper ;)

Cheers Rolf! 

On 5/11/2017 at 6:00 AM, RoCKo said:

I already followed your project over at the RPF board! Really nice results and i can only applaud that much dedication!

I wish i had enough time, space and craft skills to do such amazing work!

Keep it up, mate!    :duim:

Thanks a bunch. It been fun doing this but it took a long time to learn. You can certainly do it but yes, it takes much time and unfortunately space which I don't really have. My working space is roughly one square meter on the floor. Good thing the parts are small!

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Here is a link to my interest form for anyone interested in a kit. Just collecting data and will soon set up an official interest thread and then a sales thread when I receive the last pack of screws and check the kit parts before I package any. 

https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdxY87UYS5Bfq1BsfNwtAKC7MtRSNjtXUYAxs1F5Qjti-9OdQ/viewform?usp=sf_link

 

Feel free to comment or ask questions if you have any. 

Some basic manuals I made for the kits:

Scope%20Kit%20Instruction%20Manuals%2020

Some of those annoying air pockets I have been getting in the castings. Starting to reduce them as I go along:

M38%20amp%20M19%20Scope%20Bubble%20Probl

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Update - May 18th.

Final bag of screws just arrived yesterday to complete the kit. Sometimes the smallest things are the biggest hurdle. Nothing special, just M2 x 8mm black oxide screws to mount the prism cell. Not accurate to the originals but a good substitute I can afford. The original screws had slotted fillister heads and a spring washer. I have opted not to add a washer to reduce cost and wait time for supplies to arrive. Ebay suppliers in China have not been reliable. 3 orders of screws never arrived so I finally found the same stuff here in Japan but at twice the price. At least it arrived in 2 days from ordering. 

I tried hard to find screws that come as close as possible to the originals but there is no perfect match so I do apologize if that part of the kit does not make the grade. I have 3 types of the 3 slotted screws for the M38 but not sure which I will include. The ones I am leaning towards are a dull gray finish but they are closer to the correct head thickness of the original screws. They can be buffed to a shinier finish I think. The first round of kits I sold last year had a shiny nickel finish but they were not exact in detail either.    Oh well. :blush:

Hoping to have an official sales thread/link up this weekend with kits packaged and ready to go. Those who have already signed up on the interest form will be given priority to buy a kit.  Photos and details outlining the kit to be posted soon. Thanks again for your patience! :smiley-sw013:

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Dark%20matter%20Diagram_zps2bh7npac.jpg

Just thought to post this and hear thoughts on why this black stuff was used or maybe it is just dirt build up. Seems to me like a sealant or screw lock to prevent tampering. 

For finishing the scope kit, this may be one way to detail the scope  but I want to make sure this actually the case with other original scopes. Any thoughts?

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