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HDPE- stages and hope not far off!


tk7713gra30
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Hi all,

Can I first say a big thanks for all your help.

Some of you may have seen this on the dreaded EBAY. I bought it at a really low price and saw there was something good I could do.

It is actualy about 1.8mm ( calipler measurements) thick and the strongest helmet I have ever seen, but I may be wrong.

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Please don't tell me about casting etc, it was really a case of I will give whatever I get a go.

Well after lots of fiddling I got this to shape and managed a mix for HDPE.

I screwed and screwed, a bit of filler and lots on the ears and eyes. Basicallly it needed a effort on TLC.

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1/4 Sea Grey

1 Dark yellow

1 white

Clear as needed.

All are tamiya and the idea was to get as close HDPE with thanks to all members I could.

When done it was very very matt, so I polished first with plastic polish, it really started to look like it was made from some greeny brown mouldy stuff :-)

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Above top polished rest not

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Inside was done with red primer and a white over spray.

Then I used Latex to mask and sprayed

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All latex removed and now early stages top end

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Helmet last on right, with my own tips :-)

Its late and I am not close to done yet but would love to here comments before i post next.

Weathering next after the final tweaks

BTW helmet was £50 :-)

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, please comment.regards

gra

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Awesome job!!!!! :duim:

How's that for comments? B)

Thanks mate

A little bit of weathering before bed, I know I have to paint the rest but that will be for tomorrow/today.

Humbrol metalcote, apppliee with a RIZLA papaer, you get really fine lines then.

and a few finger prints to make it look used :-)

More to go and can't wait to go dirty.

Can I still be accepted as a Sandy with the HDPE showing, it is correct but as we know we only see it off scren

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Best wishes

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Hi again,

Well started on the stripes.

I initially added decals, it looked completely wrong and out of context with the helmet as they were far too neat.

I resorted to paining and if I am honest I am not totally happy with them.

The problem is that the paint I used to paint them is white spirit based, and so is the helmet :-( making clean up impossible without lifting the base coat. I should have used acrylics.

Anyway here it is, please comment as it really is appreciated and any advice is appreciated.

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I am hoping that it has the rough look, its harder than I thought intentionally painting rough. I am used to nice clean finishes.

Hopefully the sand weathering will bring it all together but a long way to go yet.

One question, some sandys have 15 stripes, should I add more, I think I need 13 at the minimium as this is what is on the 2 lids on Starwars helmets.com

http://www.starwarshelmets.com/original-ANH-Stunt-Stormtrooper-armor-helmets.htm

King regards

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Hi Graham, This is amazing mate!

I was watching this lid throughout the time that it was listed on the bay but never made a bid. It was my plan to re-spray it all up and add the correct decals.

Well done on this, youre making it into something that not only will look great on display but is also had a great story behind it!

Hats off to you buddy!

Smally.

P.S. It looks great with your own tips on there too!

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Very cool job on this bucket bro.

Its already looking great!

:D

Can I still be accepted as a Sandy with the HDPE showing, it is correct but as we know we only see it off scren

Best wishes

Well, actually there are a few scenes (or more than a few) where you can see the helmets scratched and all. Lots of parts around where the HDPE color shows...

About acceptance, if we have gone as far as trying to replicate or find the exact flower rivets for the strapping, I don't see why going accurate even on scratches could be a bad thing. ;)

Getting the TD designation is up to your GML discretion, but for deployment, I could say that as long as it goes in the accuracy direction, and meets all the other requirements, your bucket should be ok.

Anyway, when the time comes, if you submit a deployment request with this bucket, I would have a quick consult with Noel and the rest of the Staff to know what they think. But Im confident they will agree with this.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Saludos

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Hi again, hope this thread is not getting too boring :-)

Well no matter how hard i looked and tried to convince myself, i couldn't live with the tube stripes as they were.

My only option was to sand them back ( luckily I had only done one side) and I repainted the area, this time using decanted spray through my airbrush to save the surrounding area and to feather it in.

I noticed that the Sandtrooper stripes appear brighter than normal, it may be the light but I was going for the particular look I could see on screen.

I mixed a blue from acrylics this time and used the tube stickers to template the area NOT blue.

Once the masking was removed I used a sharp blade to make the lines different shapes as I have seen on original pics.

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Hopefully you can see the different sizes and a little chipping.

Mic tips definatley needed weathering, so masking and a spray of silver.

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Liquid latex was added following some pics of an original and a spray of black.

When the latex was removed I refitted them.

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Well here I am so far, although may not look like much progress at the minute but getting there.

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I have a spare green acetate lens and although you cannot see it I have creased one eye, for display it does make it even more battered and original but will be replaced for deployment, hopefully I will get accepted :-)

Can I ask 2 questions.

1. Should the mouth, voice moodule be satin or matt black?

2. Should sandys have black mesh with a black inner ring for the mic tips?

Tomorrow its down to painting the greay areas.

Many thanks for looking and help on the questions appreciated as I want to keep cracking on.

Also very many thanks to all for the advice and positive comments :-)

Best wishes

Gra

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Tube stripes are looking much better!

For the vocoder, I like to use Satin Black. I use the same Satin Black for the borders around the traps, tears and ear caps. I find it easier to do the black outlines first and then fill in the area with Humbrol #5 Ad Grey. For tube stripes I like Humbrol #47 Sea Blue Gloss, but sometimes I use #14 French Blue Gloss.

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Tube stripes are looking much better!

For the vocoder, I like to use Satin Black. I use the same Satin Black for the borders around the traps, tears and ear caps. I find it easier to do the black outlines first and then fill in the area with Humbrol #5 Ad Grey. For tube stripes I like Humbrol #47 Sea Blue Gloss, but sometimes I use #14 French Blue Gloss.

many thanks Paul.

I have no 5 Humbrol and will be using that.

I need to gloss up the stripes a little more,I did add some gloss medium but it didn't really show that much.

Maybe a quick blow of gloss through my airbrush but it is going Sandy so that would probably matt it down anyway.

many thanks again

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