Defstartrooper Posted March 14, 2007 Share Posted March 14, 2007 Wow thats really looking great Ward did you get the mounting bolts with the scope too the one i have someone cut the bolt heads off and left the body in the scope holes so i need to drill and tap em. That focusing thing is strange mine is not like that theres no clip or any sign there ever was underneath and no focusing knob click for full size Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyranus Posted March 14, 2007 Author Share Posted March 14, 2007 No, there were no bolts included, but luckily, the threads are intact on mine and no broken off bolts. I'll be heading to Lowe's today to hopefully find some knurled thumbscrews that will fit under the scope rail for mounting. One glitch is the tiny screw that attaches the spring clip on the front of the scope - the screw sticks down lower than the mounting base! I think this may be solved by the insertion of the Hengstler mounting rail under the scope mounts (on top of the mounting rail) as it will act as an extra spacer. The Hengstler mount is an L-shape that will attach to the rail via the front and rear scope bolts and then come out from the front bolt, angling down to the Hengstler and 2 sheet metal screws screwed into two pre-drilled holes through the black plastic and into the composite metal underneath. Once this is screwed down snug to the counter, the bracket will never be removed again, and by attaching it here on the counter, it would allow me to unscrew the two tiny brass screws on the shroud (the other end) for removal and re-setting of the counter digits inside if I so desire in the future. For real authenticity, I may run a small bead of hot glue along the lower, barrel-facing edge of the counter just to steady it down low, as it will be tightly secured on top. If I decide against this, I had thought of using the little clear silicone pads that you put on the corners of glass used in tabletops to keep it from rattling against the barrel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stomper Posted March 14, 2007 Share Posted March 14, 2007 Yeah what Defstar said about the "knob". I've never seen that before on one of these. Goes to show there are a HUGE amount of specialized variants with these things! You're gonna have a nice display specimen nontheless!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyranus Posted March 14, 2007 Author Share Posted March 14, 2007 Thanks Tony! I'm getting very excited about it now. I'm thinking I will use the same chemical stripper I used on the gun itself to remove the remnants of the original parkerized finish from the scope and strip it down to the brass - nice and clean for the final painting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyranus Posted March 15, 2007 Author Share Posted March 15, 2007 I applied the stripper last night and the gummy, parkerized finish was bubbling after about 5 minutes. I let it sit for 10 and then wiped it clean with a paper towel. Check it out: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyranus Posted March 19, 2007 Author Share Posted March 19, 2007 I worked on the mounting the scope and counter to the scope rail over the weekend. Here's the pic of everything mounted on the rail Here's showing a bit of HOW it is attached. I used the same material I used for the rail itself. This makes the counter arm VERY strong. And here are a few of the asembly on the Sterling. Judging from this picture, I need to loosen the Allen bolt a bit and straighten the counter, but you get the idea. I hope these help anyone building. <!-- s:D --> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve12201 Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 That looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SethB6025 Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 That is a clever attachment of the counter! Good work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyranus Posted March 19, 2007 Author Share Posted March 19, 2007 Thanks guys! One small step closer to being finished! Next is to fabricate my own mag-well cylinders and finish preparing everything for the paintwork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydave Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 Hey Ward,blasters looking great.Need to get working on mine soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Defstartrooper Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 Great method for mounting the counter Ward looks great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyranus Posted March 20, 2007 Author Share Posted March 20, 2007 Hey Ward,blasters looking great.Need to get working on mine soon. Thanks Dave! I look forward to seeing your build-up! Great method for mounting the counter Ward looks great Thanks! It worked really well I think, and is very strong too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 That's a smick looking blaster. Well done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyranus Posted March 23, 2007 Author Share Posted March 23, 2007 That's a smick looking blaster. Well done Thanks Scooter! I am looking into the possibility of a Metal-Blacking Process. The process is easy to apply and does not use heat or any toxic compounds. Typically, the time to BLACK a component is less than 15 minutes. After treatment, the component is ready for use or assembly. The surface finish of the component is unaffected and there are no changes to any dimensions. Once treated with the process the component's black finish is stable for ever! Finally, the BLACK-IT! process leaves the metal surface embedded with oil which resists rusting. Check out the website this info came from: http://www.black-it.co.uk/index.html Thoughts? Anyone ever done this with machined parts?? I'd love to hear if you have, or know someone who has. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Defstartrooper Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 I've not done it with machined parts Ward but when i was a kid my old man used to work in an engineering place i remember him doing this with some old combat knives i got of. The finish is really nice on perfectly smooth surfaces. Unlike paint it will highlight rather than hide any small imperfections or scratches though. I was flicking through the TV channels a few weeks ago and one of the shopping channels were showing this paint which i think could be ideal it was designed for painting on metal had a really nice satin sheen to it and built in rust inhibitor it was also really flexible they had a sheet of acetate they had painted with it that they were rolling up and crumpling without it cracking. I'm not sure if it can be used to spray with though all the applications they used it on they painted with a brush although they did say it was water based so i guess it could be thinned down for spraying. I cant remember the manufacturer it was called black magic and came in a red and white pot i've been trying to find it online but no luck as yet but if i do find it i'll post the details up here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyranus Posted March 23, 2007 Author Share Posted March 23, 2007 Thanks for the feedback. I don't want to accentuate the imperfections. Perhaps painting is better after all, in a VERY thin coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Defstartrooper Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 heres the paint manufacturers site i was talking about http://www.flagfinishes.co.uk/product_ind.htm Black magic is a tough multi-purpose black coating. It gives a classic looking satin finish and there’s no need to prime! Black Magic is a water-based, low odour, quick drying and environmentally friendly product. Black magic is very tough and flexible and it has a built in rust converter making it ideal for metals but great on plastics and glass too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyranus Posted March 23, 2007 Author Share Posted March 23, 2007 Awesome! Thanks for the link. I'll be checking them out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tk7602 Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 i love that hengstler mount! i wish i hadn't done mine ahead of yours... i'd have shamelessly stolen your idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyranus Posted April 17, 2007 Author Share Posted April 17, 2007 Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyranus Posted May 30, 2007 Author Share Posted May 30, 2007 Sorry there's been crickets chirping in here and not much else, but I've been doing a lot of filing and sanding on the barrel. It is almost ready to go to the paint shop. I don't think it will ever be perfectly smooth, the welds were a bit lumpy, but it's a lot better than when it arrived! I'll try to get progress pics if possible. The shop is a fair distance from my home and office. If not, I'll post up before and after shots at least! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydave Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 Hey Ward,Are you useing any filler.Mine is lumpy as ****,don't know why they couldn't do a better job welding & grinding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyranus Posted May 31, 2007 Author Share Posted May 31, 2007 Is it lumpy in a way that makes the weld LARGER than the surrounding barrel? If so, you can use a metal file and hand-file it down to a manageable size, then sand with increasing grades of sandpaper. I know mine will never be perfect, but I want it as close as possible. I am personally not using filler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyranus Posted September 10, 2007 Author Share Posted September 10, 2007 Over the weekend, I picked up the degreaser and etching primer. Saturday night I stripped the entire gun down and got to work degreasing it and the clip. Then on Sunday, I set to priming: Now I have some damp sanding to do with 1500-2000 grit sandpaper to smooth it out a bit, then I will shoot it with a smooth satin black finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyranus Posted September 14, 2007 Author Share Posted September 14, 2007 I finished the fine sanding and BEGAN the finish painting with the black satin last night. I shot the entire barrel of the gun, the end cap and the clip parts. Once they have dried and cured fully, I will mask the barrel off and shoot the remaining parts of the folding stock. I don't want to jinx anything, but so far, it is looking really good! I'll upload pics when all the gun painting is complete. Then, I'll have to begin the priming and painting of the scope, rail, fins and Hengstler parts. Everything is proceeding as I have foreseen! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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