freakengine Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 I'm working on a scratch-built MG-15, and have figured out most everything based on various sources, not the least of which is TK409's tutorial, BUT... I'm having a little trouble figuring out how to make the "swirls" on the front of the mag drums. Any ideas that have worked well for you guys? Any insight would be greatly appreciated. At this point, I'm thinking of cutting them out of styrene and gluing them in place, but I fear they'll look like crap if the curves aren't perfect. Here's a pic of my progress so far: Thanks! Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runJEDIrun Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 looking good Tom! i wish i was that crafty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbo890 Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 In the South, there is a product used to repel mosquitos. It comes in a coil, and I think is to be burned like citronella. I've seen guys use this. Me, I'm planning to vacuum form the coil, if I ever get the time . Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boingo Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 I'll bet you are talking about Pic coils. If you give me a few minutes, I will find and post some good pics of some MG15/MG34 saddle drums you can use as reference. ... (Ten or fifteen minutes elapse.) ... Okay. Here they are. These are photos of two saddle drum magazines, plus one drawing. The magazines were taken from MG34s, but do not be alarmed by this. The saddle drum magazines used by the two weapons are virtually identical: Please note that on the outside edge of the raised spiral is a matching indented groove. As suggested earlier in this thread, I believe the ends of this type of saddle drum magazine would be ideal for vacuuforming as a way of making them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakengine Posted August 7, 2006 Author Share Posted August 7, 2006 @ Phil: Thanks, man. I'd bet you could do it if you had the time. It always looks complicated when it's all together, but it's just taking one step at a time. @ Jimbo: Hey man, you're talking to a Georgia boy here! I grew up surrounded by the scent of those Pic coils. It's a decent idea. I wonder if they're too brittle, though. Even if they were, I'm sure the paint and glue would keep them together. I'd love to be able to vacuform them, but my gf has drawn the line at converting our dining room table to a vacuform table. @ Boingo: I appreciate the offer of the pics, but I have some great ones along with the very good CAD drawings that are floating around these days. My basic problem is matching the look in the pics without vacuforming. I've completed the barrel side of the drums with rivets and such to duplicate the look on that side, but just can't figure out a decent way of doing the grip side with any accuracy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boingo Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 You do not have to build a whole table for vacuuforming. You only need to build a shallow box that can be hooked up to a vacuum cleaner or a shop vac. You can buy styrene as 8 1/2" x 11" sheets at you local hobby store. For this particular object, you would probably want to use 0.080" thick styrene (~ 1mm). To build a vacuuforming box, you will need: A piece of 1" x 2" spruce A small sheet of masonite or plywood A 1 1/4" ABS pipe elbow A bushing or flange for 1 1/4" ABS pipe Craft foam Wire mesh or a grill ABS glue (if you don't already have some) A tube of No More Nails The 1 x 2 will be used as the sides of your box. You simply cut the 1 x 2s, and create a frame that is about the size of the styrene sheets you want to use. That will be X by X by 1 1/2" (1 x 2s are actually 3/4 x 1 1/2s!). The bottom of the box will be made from the masonite or plywood. Near the front of the box, you will need a hole where the ABS elbow will attach to. I attached mine by using a bushing . The narrow part of the bushing fit through the hole and was glued into the elbow. The flanged edge of the bushing was larger than the hole, so the bushing and elbow were then firmly attached to the masonite I used. The elbow faces forward. It is what you will use to connect the bow to the vacuum cleaner or shop vac. Once the bottem is nailed to the frame, you need to fill all cracks and seams with No More Nails. This seals the box so that air can not be sucked in via any other place than the top. The top of the box is made from wire mesh or a metal grill. To prevent the mesh from colapsing in to the box from use, or some accident, you will want to place a number of small posts between it an the bottom of the box. You attach the craft foam, or something similar, around the edge of the top of the box. This is to form a seal during the vacuuforming process. There. That's easy. You don't need a full sized table, just the box, and the box is small enough to just stick in your closet whenever you are not using it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakengine Posted August 7, 2006 Author Share Posted August 7, 2006 Hey Boingo, thanks for the great pics, as well as for the advice on vacuforming. Unfortunately, I'm experienced enough in vacuforming (I worked in a scene shop in grad school and we vacuformed LOTS of architectural elements) to know that I don't have the space. I live in LA, and hardly even have room to store my armor. I certainly wouldn't even be able to keep a shop vac. Every bit of the small amount of closet space we have is currently occupied. I should also mention my guitars tend to take up a good bit of space as well. I keep thinking I might sell one or two to free up some space, but then come back to my senses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avatar_man Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 Try the cutter's or Off Mosuito coils (found in the camping section of your local *-MART store) - they are spiraled and should glue and paint OK.. WOW - posted this and didn't realize JIMBO was already on it..! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boingo Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 Have you ever considered using a sheet of thick styrene, a coping saw and some sandpaper to make athe spirals? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-4242 Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 Here are the initial test casts for what will soon be my direct cast version of the MG-15: Real ammo drum on left casting on right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SethB6025 Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 WHOA Arsonsmith! That is beautiful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avatar_man Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 Uh - can you say classic...? Holy Crap that looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakengine Posted August 9, 2006 Author Share Posted August 9, 2006 Wow. That looks fantastic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-4242 Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 So far I'm pretty happy with it. Weight is under a pound and it can take a pretty good fall. I have the reciever section cast as well. I am still doing some more tests but this is the first of two tests I've done so far I need to reinforce the cocking lever and find a good way to connect it to the barrel when I get that done. The barrel is being a pain in the ***. Not sure what I'm going to do with that yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolf Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 WHOA Arsonsmith! That is beautiful!Copy that!!!. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakengine Posted August 9, 2006 Author Share Posted August 9, 2006 Correct me if I'm wrong, but it's been my understanding that the screen-used MG-15 had a resin-cast receiver without the cocking lever. It seems the lever was removed and the slot filled in prior to casting. Has anyone seen or have pics that conclusively confirm or refute this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stomper Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 Hey Bill, Are you going to do a run of MG-15's like you did the Lewis Guns? I'm up for one if you do!! (I bought your proto-type LG from you) BTW... WTH did you do to your left wrist?!! CRIMENY, wudda scar!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-4242 Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 sliced it with a razor knife while cutting out ab plates. I will probably do a few of them once I figure out how to do teh barrel. I want to make sure it is both light weight and very strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-4242 Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 first prototypes. I still owe the owner of the MG-15 two of these and of course I'm going to want one, but after that I'll probably do a run. Exact cost will be determined a that time. http://24.251.127.62:8088/gallery/mg-15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stomper Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 BILL!! Those are SUUUUWEEET!! Are you using Smoothcast325 or Rotocast? I'm DEFINATLEY up for one of these, when you determine a price point please be sure to let me know! Would you be interested in a partial trade for one of my scratch built E-11's? (go check out my latest model in the E-11 thread, under "Galactic Industries") Either way I'm lusting for one of these FINE works of art!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD1009 Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Wow Bill that is fantastic looking! Please do a run!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolf Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Bill this is some top SWEET!!! work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-4242 Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 The reciever and ammo drum are rotocast. the cocking lever has a bolt cast into it for strength as the first two that I did broke off. the barrel has a wooden dowell core and sc roto for the resin to make sure it has good stability and wont warp in the heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-4242 Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Any one know where I can pick up the single point scope that was on these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muad'dib Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 There's a guy on the RPF (do we still hate them over there? ) that offers resin casts of them for a decent price. That said, I'd like to upgrade to a NICE MG-15 myself so add me to the "interested" list please! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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