rhapsodyred99

So I was looking at this: Thanks Juan! and then I was in my local Lowes and in the furniture fastener section ran across these for less than a buck each: and I thought...hmm I know it's not 100% accurate, but its pretty darn close I think.

ahh thanks, mine as it stands now is in the center of the frame, I see Rick's has it more to the left of the pack. when I reattach it ill leave the bars silver!

Just realized I did not post a back picture. Here you can see the way the stinger is tilted way wrong, and the whole back pack is sitting crooked. I was able to correct the lean on the pack after the fact by tightening one shoulder strap. The bee stinger as is is too loose and so I need to just reattach it better. trying to decide on which position it needs to live (more under the radio, or centered on the seed tray as it is now). The seed trays themselves are held on by strips of plastic that flex too much, I am planning on taking them off, and replacing them with aluminum strips. anyways here is the back: Now question: Should I just start a Hurt Locker thread with all future pics? I am used to white armor which is set up with a build section, so when I started I thought Imperial armor was the right spot, but since I am after honest critiques should I go Hurt Locker? I know I have some work ahead to get to the level I want to be at, so not worried about being crushed if people think I have made a mess of things! Thanks! Edit: Rolf do you mean the sticker I have there on the left of the radio or the actual dial that would have tuned the radio? Thanks! Edit: Nevermind I see what you mean, I can paint over that with no issues.

Is the bee stinger Assembly centered under the radio, or centered on the seed tray? My pack has it centered on the seed tray, but I have seen a few pack pictures here with it centered under the radio, which is correct? Also are the brackets that hold the bee stinger assembly silver or black? thanks!

Thanks all. As far as the back and kidney gap, you are right and it is one reason I thought to turn this suit into a TD since I had hoped the back pack would hide the gap, which if I had worn the pack right would have done a better job of it I am 6' 1" and the RS suit torso just simply will not fit without that gap there. I felt the back gap was better than a front gap. I have lessened the back gap by not lining the kidney up to the Ab at the sides, but I think that can look worse. I need to readjust a few things on the pack for sure, the bottom tray is not as secure as I would like and flops out a bit when it is vertical on my back, and I need to tighten that bee stinger so it wont tilt funky. I will revisit the siphon position as well. I can easily pop the thigh ammo belt down a bit as well, I tent to keep them pushed up on my TKs so as not to hook the shins, but they rotate easily enough. I am not sold on the chest weathering. This is my third attempt. My first attempt was a muddy really dark smear that looked terrible, my second was so light you could barely see it, and this one may be a bit between the two with being a little too dense I dunno. Considering each reweather involves taking all the paint off, adding up the base layers and letting them dry before I even get to the distinctive chest pattern, you are talking hours if not days. I just got a bit burned out after my last attempt. I decided heck with it lets see how it all looks together. I am still undecided if I need to go through the arduous process again, and possibly end up with something worse. I know everything can always be bettered and no costume is truely done, so at some future point I may revisit it. Or when I am definitively told it sucks and has to be changed by the powers that be

Well I have finished the initial weathering and took my first suit up pics. I can see a few things that need to be worked on, mainly in the back pack area where I am wearing it too low and lopsided, with the bee stinger assembly incorrectly tilted. I am also wearing my PVC hand guards since I was waiting for a set of Karin's at the time, which have now arrived but when I went to put them on the gloves found my Superglue had dried...so I defaulted to the hard ones for this initial suit up. But without further ado: Move along...Move along.... Thigh ammo detail with correct curve and cap rivet: Interior shot showing accurate split rivets on side and some of the "loop and bar" original strapping system used, as well as some interior support detail of the 2.5 inch shim i had to add to each side: Helmet Interior showing star foam, green lens material, chin straps and s trim: Interior of the calf showing the "hook and loop" original closure system: Helmet front right side showing how I attempted to trim the ear in the distinctive angle where it meets the face plate, as well as the asymetrical high brow (lower on right side than left): Left side showing 16 tube stripes: Right side showing 13 tube stripes, and the "crack" at the tube: Front detail showing the tilted right hovi with the interiors except the back painted black as well as the screens, off angle vocoder, and I also attempted to paint the teeth as they look on the real helmet: Mortar tube hole detail: Rivet in the top mushroom cap: Authentic tupperware Radar Dish: Radio detail with Wire, I still need to put a leatherette surround and a pair of AV connections on it: So there we are. I do not think its so bad for a first suit up, but what do you all think?

Hope the td has a diamond knee plate.

Ill take one!

Market these! Ill buy one!

How'd you do the leatherette surround? I am thinking of doing that for mine, but have not decided the best approach. What jacks did you use for the side? You are doing great as far as I can tell. I am living vicariously though all the move along builds while I slowly put my own together. Took me 4 weeks to get one of my TKs approved so I know what a pain it is sometimes for approval, especially if it is not a costume the GML is really familiar with.

That really helps thanks a lot guys!

I got my 2 hip and canvas shoulder pouch from him. Great quality!

Hello all, I have a pack I am in the process of upgrading: So far I have gotten a real tupperware lid from Mr Bojangles to replace the vacformed radar dish. I notice the radio should have a wire going across it. Any opinions on the gauge of the wire? How does it go around exactly? I have seen a few pics but most are from the back or the left side that does not show hoe the wire look son the other side. I also see there is a riased spot on the top mushroom, is that a rivet? if so what size? Edit: also I see 'av conectors" on some radios, are they generic go to Radio shack or something special? It also look slike the positioning of them varies...what is the most accurate spot for them? Thanks!

Hello all I have decided to make the "move along" trooper for my TK to TD conversion and my first attempt at weathering was on the helmet. So what is are the thoughts of the experienced folks? I think I may have gone a little overboard and that the weathering may be 'too Messy' if that makes sense. When I applied the wash base coat It ran and pooled and then dried faster than I had realized it would, which led to some pretty dark areas. I actually like the lid, but think it may be too much. I plan on moving on to other armor parts and want to know if I need to use a lighter touch, or add even more. Thanks!

Thats too funny, What on earth would they have a screw there for what could it possibly be holding? Love the little snafus you can find with High def now. Thanks for clearing it up.

ahh that explains it! Is this the before break and after break I hear about?

Well here is my first attempt at weathering. I think I might have gotten carried away.... Definately a learning process. Rolf: I see what you mean about my shaky outlining, I may try your idea I have never been able to draw a straight line much less paint one Also I tried to tone down the chips a bit I think they are pretty subtle at the moment except the cheek one could maybe be lightend. Marcus: Yeah the RS Boys are top notch. I actually have an ABS ESB lid from them as well as a "Fishpond" Stunt lid from them as well as this suit of armor and they are nice to deal with. I think I will keep the face as is for the time being as this whole process is a learning curve for me at the moment. Thanks for the kind words!

Well just to show I am still working away, here are some pics of the lid as it stands prior to weathering: I tried to add in details like the crack on his right cheek, the diagonal cut right ear, the "chips" on his faceplate, the crooked right hovi (with interior except nipple and screen black), the oddly painted vocoder and the 13 on right 16 on left tube stripes. I attempted to paint the tears and traps like the original one as well, but was not entirely successful. I will be using the raw umber approach to weathering and hopefully will have some pics of that up soon.

I am looking at "move along" builds for research into my own version and I have to ask where the round screw in the ear is seen? I am not trying to cause a fuss as I am sure it is there somewhere, but in the pics on Looksirdroids I just cant find it. I love the attention to detail, it is helping me with ideas on how I need to change my pack and weathering etc. I am used to building TKs to EIB and centurion level, which focuses on the building of the armor (accurate split rivets for the side, accurate placement of thigh ammo belt with the cap rivet in the upper corners not the centers or bottoms, rounded bottom on the thigh ammo belt pop rivets absolutely not allowed etc), instead of the replication of a particular on screen TK. This is a whole new level and I find it fascinating. Congrats on the SWAT designation!

I have the PVC set from RS. It is amazingly resilient super flexy and tough. I have been though a few troops with no issues at all. The down side is its hard to paint large areas that get a lot of use (face is fine with humbrols or testors) You also cant make "PVC Paste" for quick repair/seam filling like you can with ABS (you know dissolving some spare abs in a little acetone makes a great filler for side shimming and cracks/repairs) Also the PVC is realy realy white. I mean really. Holding it next to my TM set makes my TM look Yellow. I have not gotten to the weathering of my PVC set yet so I can not comment on how it will hold the weathering, or if it will dull down enough. Hope that helped.

Thanks Rolf it was your threads on FISD that got me sold on this project. Sandy's are total Bada$$ no doubt!

Ok here are the pics where I attempted to get the asymetrical brow and tilted Hovi correct. The paint is left over from the ESB Lid and is not the correct pattern I am aware. You can also see the problem with the too trimmed eyes and teeth. This is what I was going for on the assembly of course: I have contacted RS about a replacement face, but I am not sure they sell parts only. What do you guys think teeth and eyes way to trimmed for SWAT?

Its neat, but I have to say I would be creeped out I mean it would be like having your desk be one of those medieval tombs. neat, but pretty creepy when you think about it... Now a slave leia laying there... Nope NOTHING creepy bout that at all!

That's good news Nick! I am currently pouring over Starwars helmets.com, SWAT Apps and all other kinds of info I can find and have started to reassemble the lid. Unfortunately, since this was built as a general ESB trooper, I have cut the eyes and teeth more than the Move Along Sandy. I think I can build the eyes back up, but not sure tackling the teeth is going to be worth while. I'll Post some pics of the rebuild tonight and see what you all think. Since I really want to do it right, I may just see if the RS Boys can send me a new face. I am not sure if the teeth in the long run are going to matter much but the eyes will really need to get fixed at the least.

I think I have settled on the classic "Move Along" trooper as the cantina captain with his Stop that Ship lid is not appealing. I like the orange pauldron, move along pack DLT-19 and pouches, but the three teeth cut out on each side, the messy paint job over all (paint runs everywhere, weird joker grin on the right side but not left) basically make me shy away from him. I know a TD is dirty, and I know the old armor was thrown together, but there are some better than others. The move along trooper has most of what I like in a sandy, while also delivering the most lines on screen. He is also clearly seen in several shots that should help in my weathering attempts. He only carries an E-11, but I suppose I can carry a DLT-19 on troops without getting thrown out of the force I assembled this suit using original strapping woth the loops and bars holding it together, split rivets on the side, and shin hooks. This was built with Centurion in mind before I decided to get the Centurion Badge on my ROTJ (2nd one ever in FISD ). I am currently working on the side shims as I am 6 foot 1 and 230 lbs the real cast RS suit won't quite close. I had to add 2.5 inches on each side to close the gap. Once I get the seams sanded down to my satisfaction I will start rebuilding the helmet to match the Move Along Trooper. I had hoped to get SWAT, and I still plan on building as if I will, but since this is a TK conversion, and I already had cut the back of the legs for movement, and several other things that are not frowned on in FISD, but i have seen comments on here (like my coverstrips being 30 mm wide on the legs instead of 25 since I am a bigger guy the 5 extra mm looked better to me) may outright disqualify me from swathood. Either way I will at least get Deployed as my first goal.