pandatrooper

Its good insight from Anthony Forrest. I'm pretty sure I have read that John Mollo or John Barry used a mixture of oil, dirt and sand. Theres photos of them painting it on the armor by dipping a paint brush in a large bucket.

Some real Sterlings I have seen have the bumpy finish. This can be simulated with overspray and light coats to add texture. Not stucco, just not smooth like a glass finish.

Satin or textured finish for E-11's since they are based on Sterlings.

Guy builds AT-AT (without telling LFL) Guy invites friends to ride said AT-AT Friend falls off AT-AT from a great height Friend breaks leg Friend sues friend and LFL LFL is mad, and sues Guy that builds AT-AT Guy in deep Bantha poo-doo I never thought this was a good idea from the get go. It's got bad vibes and planning all around it.

Now if it looked like the Death Star, then I would really go to work there! Cool design!

I recently built this for a pack commission customer. I assembled the pack based on parts he sent, but I felt the filter among other parts needed to be upgraded. Nothing leaves my shop until I am happy with it! The filter is a component that a few people have built, but I don't think that the subtle details have been captured. Until now... ------------------ Start off with a PVC pipe of cylinder of appropriate size. This particular one is a section of 3" PVC pipe. The length should be just slightly shorter than the OUTER height of your seed tray (seed trays can vary with size, so just eyeball this using reference pics). Next, buy some faucet feed lines from a home reno store. These are hard plastic pipes designed to attach a water line to your sink. I bought some longer ones and was able to cut them into 3 sections, thereby reducing the need to buy tons of these. I cut the ends at a 45 degree angle using a small mitre box and a hobby saw. Make sure to cut both ends at 45 degrees so that the angles match up (both ends should be tapered on the same side. The tip to tip length should be the exact same length as the PVC pipe section. Repeat this for all the every piece of faucet line. Sand the ends and surface to remove burrs and promote adhesion. You don't need so many to running all the way around the PVC pipe, you can leave about 2-3" open where the PVC pipe will attach to your seed tray. On mine, I used cut about 13 sections of faucet line based on the spacing (see next step.) Draw a PERFECT vertical line along the PVC pipe. This is critical. The best way to do this is lay the pipe on a flat surface, and place a ruler on the surface as well, with one edge touching the pipe. Use a pencil to scribe a line. Draw several lines along the pipe for REFERENCE only. These will keep the faucet lines parallel when you glue them, but not spaced. There is another trick for that. Glue the first section of faucet line in place, using one of the pencil lines as guide to keep it straight. I used hot glue. Sand the surface of the PVC pipe before gluing to promote adhesion. Make sure the tapered 45 degree end is facing OUTWARDS. Use a space of some kind to position the next faucet line. I used a thick screwdriver. Using a faucet line is too thick, a thicker pen or pencil could works too, but it must be straight / parallel. Place the screwdriver against the first faucet line, and run a bead of glue next to it, and press the next line in place. Keep the tension tight to ensure good spacing (important if you don't want it to look crooked / wonky). Repeat this for all the other faucet lines, again you can leave a gap of about 2-3" on the bottom. Buy some black felt material (thin craft kind) from a hobby or fabric store. This will replicate the filter material. Cut a section the height of the PVC pipe. The length should be twice as long as the circumference of the PVC pipe. Run a bead of hot glue between 2 of the faucet lines, on the outer face of the filter. You are starting with the center or middle faucet line (in my example, between line 7 and 8. This ensures there will be enough material to cover the lines with no gaps. You need to work quickly. Lay the felt down and keep it square to the filter. Press the felt into the hot glue so that it bonds to the channel between the 2 faucet lines. repeat this process maintaining pressure / tension on the felt, so that it does not become baggy and loose. I used a paint stir stick to press the felt into the hot glue each time. When you have glued every channel down, trim the end of the felt, so that either wraps under the bottom the filter (where it mounts to the seed tray) or trim this off and paint the underside black. It's up to you. Using a SHARP hobby blade, trim off the felt flush with the 45 degree edges you cut into the faucet lines. Repeat this on each line. If you have fuzz / loose felt on the ends, you can torch them quickly with a lighter to seal the fabric. Almost done! Glue the end caps in place. You can use plastic lids or flat cut styrene. Paint the caps black, as well as the ends of the faucet lines. Make sure to get paint deep into the ends of the faucet lines. I used flat black here. Install it on the seed trays (I simply use a rivet gun: drill holes through the seed trays and pack and rivet it in place. For accurate placement, look at reference pictures. The filter should not be aligned with the tray, it should skewed at about 11 o'clock. Make sure to weather it too! Now go out and knock on some doors, troopers!

I have reposted the tutorial here. --------------------- I'm not sure why I did my mesh this way. I just like to be different. I wanted to keep the inside of my lid neat / tidy looking, so I wanted to avoid the "hot glue all over the backside of the mesh" method. I made some simple frames that are removable, should I want to change the mesh later on. Materials needed: - mesh of your choice - styrene plastic sheet (1.0mm used here) - scissors - small xacto knife - hole punch or drill - glue (hot glue or E6000) - white adhesive velcro 1. I traced out some template shapes that had openings that were larger than the teeth / frown. I made 4 shapes total, 2 for each side of the frown. Just make sure to make the holes about 1/8" bigger than the teeth themselves. These are simply cut out of styrene with scissors. For the holes, I used a hole punch for the corners, and scored connection lines between the small holes with an Xacto, and snapped out the insides. 2. this is how the mesh will be sandwiched in between the plates. 3. Cut out the mesh with scissors and glue them inside one of the plates Then glue the other "frame" on top 4. attach some strips of velcro onto the edges of the frame. Attach the opposite velcro on the inside of the face of the helmet, above and below the teeth 5. install the mesh frames and press them down Finished! From the outside, no one can tell how the mesh is attached. If I want to later, I can change the mesh out easily, and the inside of your lid looks neat and tidy.

Heres how I made a removable mesh frame for under the teeth on a helmet. http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=8687

Try a 2" ABS pipe. The wall thickness (called schedule) is thicker than PVC pipe.

Take care of yourself. Your health is the most important thing!

Nice work! Love the alleyway wall.

I believe Davin is the white pauldron TD on the dewback http://www.looksirdroids.com/davin_publicity.htm

Talk to Woodchuck. I'm sure he could make one for you.

I've actually been trooping more with my TD than my TK. Depends on the event. For something like a hospital visit, younger kids, etc. I would go TK as most people recognize them all the time. For cons and where people "know" Star Wars, I go TD.

Looks great, nice and dirty! For the belt and shoulder elastic, I just used a brush with the browner dirt paint color, watered down a bit more, and dry brushed it. It came out great.

If thats a legit price, the costume is probably very beat up. It also sounds a little too good to be true. Have you seen photos of the armor and do you trust the seller?

Hey Pat. I think it's a good start. Try and get more dirt in the nooks and crannies (the valley where the cheek tube meets the face, inside the tear ducts, under the brow, on the face where the ear meets it, both mic tip sockets, the vocoder lip, etc.) I tend to get more dirt in these areas, then take paint only off the high spots. Right now, I find the areas around the lenses, the under brow and a few spots a bit clean. Keep in mind that dirt will tend to settle in valleys, and the underside of anything (even under the sides of the cheek tubes, etc.). I would add a little more dirt, and try not to have large sections of "clean" areas, only make the high spots clean. Good luck!

I pre ordered it on Amazon with the sale price when it was originally announced.

Looks dirty!! Nice work!

Some ideas: Jawa sandcrawler treads / jawas selling droids Trash compactor with walls / Dia noga Falcon ramp / gantry Empire carbon freeze chamber with red lighting / steam Death star entrance / blast door frame Jabbas palace Jabbas barge or the one Luke fights on Full size speeder bikes Full size Dewbacks Full size Banthas scale Shuttle Tyderium Scale size LAAT-i Drop ship Landspeeder Full size pod racers

This is how the original strapping was done. There are several troopers that have built theirs this way to replicate the original screen used armor. Stukatrooper and Firebladejedi were some of the first http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=12511&st=0 Its an accurate detail but I dont think its required for deployment or Swat.

All the best to you and Sylvester, Rolf! Keeping my fingers crossed for both of you!

The tutorials here should help. TK specific, but this should cover the majority. http://www.whitearmor.net/home/tutorials/armor-tutorials.html Here's my AM thread as well http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=10434

I used Rit liquid black on my canvas pouches. Works awesome.

That was great. I just watched "Paul" yesterday, and it was a blast. Several good SW references and a few that had me in stitches.