Pghtrooper21

Star Wars Night at PNC Park Pittsburgh Pennsyvania Pittsburgh Pirates vs Arizonia Diamondbacks Great time at the Ball Park. The Fans enjoyed dressing up and wearing Star Wars Swag! Enjoy the pics! Andy

Hi, I have a couple of questions about the backpack. 1. I read somewhere that the frame was a "Boy Scout" back pack frame, Is that correct? 2. For the "Seed Trays". What type are they? Can the be found at "Garden Centers and Nursery's"? Thank You. Andy

Hello, I am still working on my A.P. Armor. I am registered on F.I.S.D. I bought a Anovos kit in May. I would like to have both a TK and a TD. I am still new here looking arround at the CRL and spotting the differences between each backpack, pouches,Paldren, etc... The question I have is does the "Brow need to be high on every TD, for P.O. and Swat? I bought a White Paldren and I have a Lewis "DLT19" and "E-11". I also have a Real Demilled Sterling, with a Real Hengster and M48 scope. Thanks. Andy

Next up "T-Track".

After doing some touch ups on the front of the Counter and on the underside of the "Power Cylinders". I decided to assemble the pieces and see how it looks. I put the front plastic onto the counter and screwed it into place. I place the Counter into the Socket. I screwed the Counter back into place under the "Scope Rail" I placed the "Scope Rail" on the "Dummy\Deactivated Sterling" and locked it into place with the "Hex Bolt". I placed the two Magnets on the "Mag House" and set the "Power Cylinders" on top of the 2 Neodymium Magnets. I set the Counter on the Counter Holder and took some pictures to share. I place the "Dummy\Deactivated Sterling" on top of some "Ziplock Boxes" for holding the build in place for picture taking. How does it look so far?

I saw a tip from a fellow trooper on "FISD\Whitearmor.net" of using 2 Neodymium Magnets 1 x 1/4 x1/16 to hold the "Power Cylinders" in place. I like this. In case if I am going to show my "Dummy Sterling" at an event, I ilike the idea of being able to remove the "Power Cylinders" for transport. I bought a set of two "Neodymium Magnets" for $ 4.98 US on Ebay. It came in a small box. I found out that they are strong and they hold strong. I have place a US Dime currency allong with a measuring tape for reference. Also, I placed the magnets on the Mag houser as reference as how the will be holding the 'Power Cylinders".

Here are some pictures of the pieces after the painting. I will be doing some touchups on the front of the counter. I will retape the front and trim it out with a "Xacto Hobby Knife" and spray again.

I used a wire hanger to place the Counter Socket and counter on while spraying. I held out the "hanger" and sprayed away. I did not get a chance to take a picture of spraying the counter and socket. So I took a picture of of it afterwards. I just placed the wire in the two holes of the plastic part of the counter and set it off to one side and place the wire into the hole of the counter holder and placed the wire through the front and back of the socket and set it on the other side. I did two coats. Left dry for two days and sprayed another two coats and let dry. The instructions on the can said to let dry for 2 hours then you can add on another coat. I let it sit for two days.

In painting the counter, I removed the two screws, from the counter. I removed the plastic cover. I placed some "Blue Painters Tape" over the clear plastic. I used a "Xacto Hobby Knife" to trim along the clear window. and removed the excess. I places the counter and the screws in a "Ziplock" plastic bag for safekeeping.

After, letting the "Kwick Steel" set for a day, I began to paint the parts, ie the "Power Cylinders", Counter holder and Counter/Socket. For the paint I used Krylon, Primer & Paint Flat Black. I sent email to Unique caines whom I ordered my "Dummy\Deactivated Stering from and ask what type of paint that he used on assembeling the "Dummy\Deactivated Sterling" . He replied back saying that he used "Flat Black" and polish it wth a cloth after drying. I took the pieces out on the wall and layed out the paper. I set the "Power Cylinders" on some pieces of scrap wood . I read the instructions on the can and shook the can for a few minutes and checked the direction of the wind and sprayed away.

Next I used my "Utility Blade" to cut off any excess "Kwick Steel" from the areas arround the "Bolts and End Caps". After wards I used "Blue Painters Tape" to tape the edge of the blade for throwing it out.

Painting the parts. To secure the front screws I untightened the screws to shorten the bolts. When I got the bolts to where I wanted them to be, I used a "Jewel File" to roughen up the front of the end caps and use a papertowel to wipe off any excess shavings. Then I dapen my hands with a moist paper towel. Then I used "Kwick Steel" to hold them into place. "Kwick Steel" is a type of Epoxy that comes in a tube. First You cut off what you need to work with and then put the rest back intoo the tube and put the cap back on to seal the tube to prevent it from hardening. Then you need to dapen your hands with a moist paper towel. Grab the piece of 'Kwick Steel and roll and kneed it till it turns into a solid color. Then very quickly place the piece of "Kwick Steel" on the end cap. and place the screw back into place and press and hold. I repeated the process on the other cap. Note! "Kwick Steel" cures/dries VERY FAST! you have to be quick to work with it.

Thanks for the comments! Andy