troopermaster

3" wide elastic in the original thighs

If anyone is wanting the armour parts for Dengar, I have them available

20mm foam liner might be better. Parts are done and going out tomorrow

You would say that Sid seeing how you already ripped me off.

Who is RWA?

I think once it's strapped you will be fine. I have never cut the cod piece, even for shorter people, so I would forget about that. There are other tricks you can do 'if' you need to, but I don't think you will looking at your photo.

Is the armour strapped together or have you just offered the chest plate to your body?

On the shins, you should have made the middle section at least 20mm wide and have the top and bottom wider to glue the strips on. The best thing to do is offer your joining strip onto the armour before you trim it and mark out where it will go. You will find the cut is not the same width on the joining edges of the armour because of the wonky nature of the original armour. It's okay to leave the flat edge underneath showing. Try and keep your corner cuts of the joining strips to a minimum or even leave them squared. They look a bot too big. Also, your belt. You should really line it up on your abdomen, not your groin. The belt should look off-centre when positioned correctly.

Just look at the photos available and you can clearly see that the parts are grey. I have always said the parts were grey and the blue everyone uses is wrong. But no one listens

The grey primer looks like a winner to me

Screen accurate build (TK):

Yes we are. The straps that connect your chest to the back, over your shoulders.

The ones in the top link are not accurate and there are no rivets showing in the second link. The accurate rivets are brass with 6mm legs and use M4 brass washers (which I have by the way). There are 3 per side on the left hand side of the abdomen and kidney plates. The last rivet is used in the crotch making 7 in total. No other split rivets anywhere on the armour.

Use 2" wide white elastic, about 6-7" long will do. Simply glue the left side shut and leave the right side half shut (glue the back and have a snap to the chest) if you want to replicate the original armour or have snaps on all ends if you want a simple version

The return edges are mainly on the torso for the strapping brackets to fix to. If you are short and need to trim the parts down, don't worry about it. I read about people stressing over return edges when they are only needed for the original strapping system. Even then, you can glue the straps in place where you can't add brackets. If you are using snaps then there is no need to any large return edges. Hope that helps

Make the plate a few mm's wider than the buttons and cut the corners at 45` angles. Make sure you glue the plate high up on the raised platform exposing the slot on it's lower section.

That's the beauty of the original troopers. Each one is unique with it's own character and charm

You're nuts! It looks like there is a border line to me.

I wouldn't use the RS as a base for your sculpts. They are not an exact duplicate of the original it was cast from with many weird draft angles added to the pieces which is the result of your oddly shaped thigh.

Looking good!

If you want a negative formed 3 button plate, I have them available.

This helmet is quite tricky to build correctly. If you notice in the photos from Christies, the helmet is assembled with a very low brow. I believe the face was pushed forward and held with gaffer tape to get the high brow look on screen, if I remember correctly. Notice the distance from the tears to the ear caps. They differ quite a bit on either side, so take that into consideration when building the helmet. Good luck