troopermaster

You're welcome All original armour had the left side fixed and the opening side was on the right. Left side was held together with black elastic and 6 brass rivets on the abdomen and kidney and the chest and back plates permanently connected with a white elastic strap glued to both parts. The right hand side had a snap facing inwards on the top corner of the abdomen and a black elastic strap glued to the top corner of the kidney plate to keep the armour closed at the waist. The shoulder and back strap was glue to the back plate and had a snap on the other end that connected inside the chest. The final closing strap was under the groin. This was a 1" black elastic strap held inside the jock cup with the same bras rivet as used on the sides and had a snap on the other end. The butt plate had 2 snaps facing inside that offered some adjustability. I am sure most of you know this but thought it would help those who are not familiar with original armour

Yes. I make them but only have a forming tool for FX armour at the moment. I made these as an upgrade for FX owners as most armours already have the box moulded into the abdomen. The 3 button strip next to the plates are also bigger for the FX only. What armour do you have?

Go for screen accuracy every time. Take a look at these thighs to get an idea of how they should look.

All trooper armour was assembled the same so this method is good for Sandtroopers too, even though my photos show a Stormtrooper. The original elastic shoulder straps had sew on snaps under the straps so they are not seen. You can paint the top of the snaps white or go for a double layer strap to hide it. I personally would never use canvas because it is too rigid and you want your armour to be able to move freely which is what elastic allows you to do. Canvas or webbing type straps have no give and can pop your snaps if you're not careful.

Like these?

You want to use 2" wide white elastic for your shoulder straps. The original armour had the left side glued shut where the right had a snap on the chest to allow you to slip into the armour. See my replica below.

Just letting you guys know that Damian and his friends have RECAST this set of TM armour! http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bd8qnxiCxP0

It sounds like it's the snaps that are the problem. I have not known snaps to pull away with elastic unless they are under extreme force. Are these the same kind you are using?

Hand plates worn on the wrong hand can be seen on many troopers in ANH. Same goes for the shin armour too - a real mix and match of pieces thrown together and worn on the wrong leg. I think wearing them on the wrong side is a good upgrade. Whatever is seen on screen is what we should be aiming to look like whether it is good or bad. Those are the real troopers we should be trying to emulate - not ideal versions in my opinion By the way, just made some really nice latex hand plates

You guys look awesome! Good job raising all that money for great cause. Well done

That's a crazy colour! Is that one Matt made recently or an old one?

You have got a few options here. 1 - Pop rivets and washers (quick and permanent) 2 - Chicago screws (removable) 3 - Single cap rivets (screen accurate and permanent)

The ones in my pic are M3 x 8mm. I think you will find they are the same as the screen used screws

6mm-8mm-10mm....hmmmm

Here you go mate: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Core-RC-Curved-Lexan-Scissors-/140567647749?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item20ba7c1605 Ships worldwide

Heavy duty scissors are great for cutting plastic (as long as the plastic isn't too thick). Try a pair of those curved lexan scissors for cutting round edges, they are really good!

Come on Rolf......Your usually doing the weathering by now mate

WOW!!! Great job Erik You did a fantastic job on the assembly and paint work. What paints did you use? These are beautiful helmets

Looks like the parts may have been stood on and cracked. It can easily happen if you lay the parts out on the floor and you are not careful. I wouldn't worry too much about leaving a big return edge. This will make the armour more prone to cracking seeing how it is HIPS and not ABS. I think good old superglue might be best for this job and just trim most of the return edge away. Don't glue the backs of your shins closed. You will never get your foot through them so leave the backs open and just glue the thighs shut.

The issues were caused by the webbing, not the snaps. You shouldn't have any webbing on your suit at all. Only use elastic and you will find you can move more freely without any armour failures.

That was a nice read Rolf and I am so pleased you got to meet your hero. I have not met Antony yet but I have met Chris Munche. What a funny guy!

Snaps are more secure than velcro and screen accurate too. Just look at some original shoulder bells and you can see the snaps sewn onto the strap that connects to the shoulder strap.

Awesome!!! Are you going for original strapping Rolf? I think the 1.5mm ABS is the ultimate for accuracy, but PVC sure does take a beating much more than ABS.

Beautiful helmet I was over at RS Props a few weeks ago and saw all the helmets on the table. It was quite a sight I can tell you. These are without a doubt the best helmets you are ever likely to own and will supercede anything has has been offered to date.

You cannot count on those pics, Rick. SE/ROTJ troopers did not have the belt corners cut like the original ANH troopers.