Hausi

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bottom: here you can see that my neck opening is a little too wide as the DA helmet doesn´t match the shape and curves of the original.

back: Emulating the overlap of the bottom s-trim was quite difficult and I don´t think I got it quite right.

Thanks you very much Daniel!

left side and details:

right side and details:

Here are some comparison pics, my helmet always first followed by the real one.

Roger has got the best reference pics, good to have you mate!

Hi everyone, Andy from DA /shed of glittering delight did a small run of 1mm HDPE helmets and the detail on them looked pretty sharp so I bought one as a fun project. My initial goal was to throw this one together as quickly as possible not emulating any specific helmet, just for the fun of it as I love building helmets. So in about 2 hours I had it trimmed and assembled. But then I realised that it somehow reminded me of the "Look sir, droids" helmet and I put it aside to get to work on it at a later point again. So it sat there with a skateboard helmet sticker on it. about half a year later I started work on it again, studying reference pics and realising that there had to be a few changes to be made, so I adjusted the allignment, reworked the ears and filled up that one tooth hole which I had cut out a little too hastily with bondo. This being said, I have to say that I think that this helmet isn´t the ideal choice to emulate the "Look sir, droids" helmet. Andy has obviously reworked his molds since, but with this one, the faceplate´s sides are too short which is why the distance between the ears and the tears is too small. Also the bottom of the helmet (cap and back) doesn´t have the right shape/curve to it. Furthermore is the bottom of the faceplate all wrinkled up so I had to cut that off as well. As I still have a very accurate Anon Stormtrooper helmet here, I consider this one as practise. Being only 1mm, it is also quite soft and probably wouldn´t withstand the stress of trooping. Don´t get me wrong here, as all HDPE material, it´s almost indestructible but it´s just very easy to push the dome inwards and the paint would just start chipping. For the paintchips I used Vallejo masking fluid, which is colored so you can still see it, way better that the colorless Revell color stop I´ve been using before. I rather went for the as-seen-on-screen-look with the rather low brow: In some of these pics that were taken at a later date, the weathering has mostly gone and the brow has obviously slipped up, revealing the chipped paint underneath. I also tried to emulate those paint chips so they seem smaller as if the chipping hadn´t progressed so far. Here´s what it looked like after applying the white paint. I also had already started painting the black details.

Looks great Chris, how are the zip ties holding up? Looks pretty sturdy to me, The exhaust port tube looks a little long but that should appear less obvious as soon as you have added the hose clamp.

What an awesome idea with the "present packs" and the pauldron! You guys really look festive.

Hey mate, have a look at the CRLs: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:Mimban_Trooper here you can find all the relevant requirements to be approved. As I understand this, the forearms must be completely closed, no velcro allowed, while velcro should be fine for the shins as those have to be closed at the back. Just try to have the front opening of your forearms as small as possible so you barely can push your hand through the opening.

Hey Jeff, good to hear that you enjoyed your time in Germany and still have some fond memories. I've been to the states several times and it was always a blast. I'm still addicted to those Reese's peanut butter cups. The black wash has done the job to tone down the silver dry-brushing, looks much more natural now. So the stock is wood, man, that's a piece of art and really sells it,great work. How did you paint it? You even sourced the right sling, which looks very different to the Enfield sling on the ANH T-21.

You are doing some amazing work here mate! I really like your attention to detail. That T-21 looks great. Some points to think about though: Your silver dry-brushing looks a little unnatural, maybe just slightl too much. Have you tried Rub'n Buff? That stuff is really cool but you will also have to seal it with some clear coat. I couldn't really see this specific detail in your reference pic but I would suggest using some putty to smoothen the transition of the tapered barrel shroud. That what I did when I did my first T-21 scratchbuild. Keep up the great work and keep those pictures coming, looking forward to seeing your progress!

Looks great! Let's see some more pics, sides and top too.

I haven't got much experience with 3D printing but I think the shape of the canteen looks good. But why are there these indentations in the top and bottom part? They should actually be smooth while the main body normally has a structured surface on the original Gio'style canteens. Maybe you could emulate that by using special paint.

Yeah, I can see, my Karrimor frame had this version of the endcaps too but when studying reference pics I found out that the 70s frames had a differents version: so I went to my local diy store and found something similar that was a great fit: I was so lucky to get a karrimor on ebay lately, although not being the correct frame shape, it´s from the seventies and has the correct endcaps... and the red back support straps :

Hi mate, actually it isn't a problem to have two left handguards as this is what you can also see on screen, e.g. the Move along Captain has this too. If you want new ones, have a look here: Or give imperial warfighters or sheartech on FB a try.

Really amaaazing!!! Great work! I salute you for your commitment and attention to detail! This is a SWAT-worthy pack.... okay, the radio would need the black overspray but I can understand if you don't want to do that. One minor detail though: add some end caps to cover the bare metal ends at the top of the frame, I think I see them in your reference pic.

This looks great, you did a terrific job on the paint finish, looks very realistic. It still looks a little too clean for my liking, I think I would dirty it up a little, maybe give it a wash with some sand/earth color. Then again I can understand if you choose not to, as it looks so nice the way it is. What you should do though is add some rubber U-trim to your acrylic stand so the paintjob isn't damaged when displayed.

Nice work! Maybe you could trim of a little more on the round part at the top of the ear.

Great, I especially enjoyed the ones from last Christmas. All lit up like a christmas tree.

That's a white ABS sheet? Wouldn't it be easier to have a black one to start with?

That indeed is a possibility, I can also remember noticing some weird edges visible on some of the packs. They probably just tried different ways of attaching the trays on set... after the first ones started falling apart. I think the most accurate way of trooping would be to start the day of trooping with a wonderful pack and end it with something that has fallen to pieces So always keep the gaffer tape at hand.

I personally am happy with the aluminium bars as it just holds together, no worries. But I'm looking forward to seeing how it works for you.