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wannab

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Posts posted by wannab

  1. TM,

    Are these screen accurate dimensions?

    A - 20 mm = 7/8"+

    B - 13mm = 1/2"+

    C - 110mm = 4 3/8"-

    D - 176mm = 7"-

    Also the 68 mm comes to around 2 5/8" dia - a bit too large for the TE end caps I have. 2 1/4- 2 5/16 dia is what I need -- any ideas?

  2. I have two TE1 suits and both have larger than 2" dia. openings that Mike suggests (FX suit). The openings on my TE1 caps measure at between 2 1/4 and 2 5/16.

    Mike states that 7 1/2 inches is the proper total length -- is this screen accurate? Also he doesn't mention any other measurements -- anyone got the info?

  3. OK, I know this isn't sandy related but I thought I'd ask anyway...

    Can someone give me accurate measurments for this?

    Posted Image

    Also what is everyone using for the tubing (grey area)?

    Lastly, any good pics of attaching clips that match screen used?

    Thanks in advance.

  4. This sucks! I wish I had known about this guy before ordering (E-11) on ebay (apr 3). No gun, no communication, no money back (past 45 days), I guess I just hope it shows one day. I left a neg feedback today maybe that will help. Not happy!

    Here is the listing text...

    Sterling L2A3 – “Blastech E-11”

    This lightweight rubber blaster prop is as authentic as it gets, and not some home brew version. REAL sci-fire.com product casted directly from a real Sterling, and completed to match the film version. Carbon fibre armature. LESS THEN 2 LBS WILL NOT BREAK FROM DROPPING or trooping. This is a NON-FIRING BLASTER and CAN NEVER NEVER EVER BE MODIFIED TO FIRE!. As seen in Star Wars – A New Hope. The Blastech E-11 was carried as a standard issue blaster by the Sandtroopers and Stormtroopers. Don’t miss out! This is not readily available. The Hyperfirm blasters have become near extinct in the past year. Most durable blaster for trooping!! This blaster comes painted black. This item is READY TO SHIP as is! Serious bidders only please. FREE UPS GROUND SHIPPING (with tracking number) WITH BUY IT NOW! For sale to continental US customers only. Sorry. No overseas or out of country shipping.

    Thanks for checking out my auction!

    Ready to ship????

  5. Yeah Rocko I know what you mean, but it seems to be tough to get a non blurry shot with my camera that way. I did take these from about 5-6 feet away and just cropped the image. Best I can do with my cruddy camera -- I'd rather have the lids than a better camera anyway, lol.

  6. Nice looking buckets! When you say the correct grey, do you mean the Humbrol or Testors?

    I am unconvinced that the midnight blue is the correct color. I used #15 and I think and that looks pretty good for my sandtrooper.

    Any shots of the sides and backs?

    Humbrol.

    PM sent about the #15.

  7. Nice Lids wannab, I like seeing the TE1 and 2 comparrisons. Quick question what is the thickness of each helmet? Is the TE1 thinner than the TE2?

    The back on the TE1 seems to be the same as the TE2, but the face is a little thinner (not much) mostly on the under chin area but it's beefed up with the neck seal so now it feels rock solid.

  8. I finally got around to cutting into and fixing my SDS lids. It took quite a bit to get them to look right. I had to cut and reposition quite a lot -- trim the eyes and ears, even up the dome as much as possible. the eyes on the hero needed a lot to get the lenses to seat right. I had to bring the bottoms forward and trim the brow (stunt) to even it out. I riveted it back together it seemed to firm up the finished product. Still not perfect but they are as close as they can be. I wouldn't have had the guts to take this on prior to working on my TE lids.

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  9. Before. (TE1 left TE2 right)

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    Progress so far. (TE1 left TE2 right)

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    A couple thing I'm not sold on yet...

    1. I used the correct color paint for the stripes on vinyl then cut them out, but it still looks almost black so I may lighten the paint and try that.

    2. The lenses I used were face shields, but again the appear too dark (not from the inside however). I just thought that the green acetate that came with the TE2 kit was way too light. I think the darker color on my SDS is the perfect shade, but I have yet to be able to track some down.

    --

    Something I tried that worked very well was, I painted the correct grey, but i made black vinyl trim cut to match what I had painted so it looks somewhat freehand.

    I'll post a pic of how I solved the Mic tip mounting issue -- It's a good'n.

    Last thing I need for the inside is some 3/4 inch foam.

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