TD42115
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Posts posted by TD42115
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Roger,
Great progress, almost there.. Keep at it trooper..
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Roger,
You got this brother, like Trooper 1 said, Its mainly weathering.. Easy changes, almost there.
I think what Felix is trying to say the T21 barrel at the end might be too long ?? best wait for him to get pictures up...
Chris
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3 hours ago, Airborne Trooper said:
After talking to you yesterday, I'll be ordering a separate power supply for my TKTalkie and storing it in my shoulder pouch as well. I'll cut the piece of wood in the pocket down so I can fit the TKTalkie and power in one of the sleeves. The amp will go in the tool pouch.
This is exactly what i will be doing as well. since my 10W aker is already in the tool pouch on shoulder its just logical to put the TKtalkie, power and bluetooth mic receiver in there.. ill post up pics and stuff when i get to that point..
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Ive been using a 5v 3000mah usb cell (smallest i can find and fits in back tube of helmet) 2 5v 1500rpm centrifugal fans lasts close to 12 hours non stop on my setup but not running anything else off the circuit.
Will pickup another but 1500mah for the TKtalkie when its ready for testing, can hide it in the shoulder pouch where my 10W aker is..
Have also been looking at the Anker PowerCore 5000 line a lot of power in a small foot print only 5V 2A though..
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7 minutes ago, Airborne Trooper said:
I just ordered the last things I need to upgrade to v3. It'll be very nice to do everything live from my iPhone and not have to hook up to the Adreno app on my computer anymore.
I have found a local supplier.. Same cost in CAD as the USD prices ya ya and no currency conversion.. Ordered the Micro-controller and audio board.. already have everything else, printing a box via the TKtalkie site STL file.. Should be Icomm less by end of the month lol
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15 minutes ago, henselmonster said:
I am working toward the same trooper, but mine with 2 Small Spanish pouches (the Garindan variant). They are technically the same trooper, but once he walks into Docking Bay 94 he magically gains a MP40 pouch. Fun continuity errors. I thought either were considered correct for this particular trooper.
Yes this is the one i did, Docking Bay 94 V2 - Tuck and Roll..
Roger you are close, you got this..
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Ive started to look into this one as my Icomm battery has died for the 2nd time in a year... V3 does look great, was watching this video above this weekend as well.. Only issue is finding the hardware locally in Canada..
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Look good trooper
. One thing i noticed, they may ask you to put the wire around the fins on the DLT barrel to simulate the wire holding them on(If you plan on going for SWAT).. See reference pics below, other than that and the mentioned above your doing great.. Granted the bottom wires (pic2) under the by-pod are hard to do. dont believe they are required (I didn't do them either)..
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Getting close trooper.
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Congrats Trooper
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On 3/2/2017 at 4:14 PM, RanceDojo said:
Thanks. I'm going to have to practice this a few times before I try it on a blaster because I'm afraid I'll rub right through the base layer.
No problem
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I'm interested in being the armorer for Canada. I'am the only SWAT deployed in Canada. Also have already been helping other TDs and TKs build their armor for a while..
Garrison Canadian
TD 42114
I am apart of the Ontario Outer Rim Patrol..
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1
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Congrats, welcome to the sand box..
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No problem here is the steps I used on all 3 of them.. Remember to do this is a well-ventilated area as the fumes get very toxic wile distressing with generic lacquer thinner.
1. Lightly sand all weapons down with 1200(or higher) grit sand paper. Washing after to remove contaminates.
2. First coat with the pictured paint. This stuff lays out really well, stay about 8-14 inches away while laying down Tamiya paints. (Tamiya TS-17) this can be substituted for a brass or any other desired base.
3. After base layer has dried for about 30 min. Lay down the second layer using the pictured paint below. (Tamiya TS-38)
4. Now on to the top coat. You can use any black paint you want for this glossy, matte ect. Make sure to cover well as this will add great amount of depth to the distressed areas in step 5. I used the pictured paint..
5. OK, after letting the paint cure for about 24 hours. Let the distressing commence, the paint job will look good but we want to give a desired look and depth. I used a generic lacquer thinner acquired at Home Depot, Canadian Tire (for us Canadians), Lows or Rona. Use a pair of chemical gloves and some eye protection (PPE is always good). Soak a rag or sponge in the lacquer thinner and rub at the paint job to get the desired effect, don’t need to rub too hard unless your top coat was super thick..
Enjoy Troopers
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Thanks for the kind words.
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Congrats Trooper
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Congrats trooper, welcome to the sand box..
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8 minutes ago, LoveMonkey said:
Those look amazing, really nice job. I love the look of a properly weathered blaster, really makes it look just that much more realistic.
Thanks brother. always have people asking if they are real..
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18 minutes ago, henselmonster said:
One suggestion I have is maybe adding a little brass color to the barrel of your T-21, then it would match back to the Lewis a bit more. Either way, still looks awesome
I was thinking of this, doing a light brass wash to the barrel as well. My reference shows no brass on the screen used T-21s pictures i have. I did hear down the grap vine that for ANH all 3 of the screen used Lewis's were painted to hide the brass using silver and black to match the MGs and Stirling's
15 minutes ago, iconoclasta_88 said:Nice!
Weathering is my fav part of prop building...
Saludos.
D@mn right brother, why im a sandy..
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3 minutes ago, henselmonster said:
Looks awesome! A little weathering makes a huge difference from making it look like a fancy toy to a real weapon. You did a great job
Thanks brother, weathering is key..
2 minutes ago, spOOL68 said:Nice job!
Thanks brother.
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Hello troopers,
Figured i would finally post the pictures of the blaster weathering i did back in the summer,. Was striving for real weapon replication.. 3 step process, base(aluminum or steel), 2nd base (gun metal), then a final glossy top coat. after letting them dry for 24 hours i distressed the layers with a thinner for the paints used and several rags..
Here are the results..
First off is the bad @ss T-21 by Blaster 8266 (I modified the handle for comfort)
Now the DLT-19 from Hyperfirm, this was an A grade, (custom fakelite stock)
I did my resin E11 as well but never troop with it was just for fun..
Thanks for looking
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I also have a Crashmann kit now, love it.. upgrading to an original karrimor frame shortly.
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I will be using the original karrimor straps when i move to the new frame. My Crashmann pack & frame has military pack straps on it now, they are beyond overkill.. Packs now are quite light in weight..
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21 hours ago, spOOL68 said:
Thx Chris! I went through your thread as I went along as reference! Thx for leading the way
21 hours ago, henselmonster said:You guys both killed it! I am doing the same trooper as well (T-21's for life) I cant thank you guys enough for such great reference. I am excited to watch this approval.
Thanks bros, Swat is a long and sometimes difficult path but well worth it in the end, the path of a few will become the path of many.. Thanks for the kind words
*DONE* TD-12864 Requesting Deployment
in MEPD Police Officer Program
Posted
Almost there.. Should be deployed for celebration..
I kinda figured the wires were needed for DLT, they asked the last trooper to add them too for PO.. I think an update is needed to the CRL to reflect this..