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T-Jay

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Posts posted by T-Jay

  1. Wow, very cool !

    Looks great. Awesome kit to upgrade the E11. Good luck with the sale. Saludos.

    :) nice

    Thanks very much guys! Most of these sets so far went to FISD members and I thought our dirty guys could use them too. :yes:

    Must admit, I am not very familiar with the Bapty, but if there are additional things required, just let me know and I can try adding them into the kits...

    Thanks in advance

  2. These real 6-digit counters are now available with the Completion Sets as a limited upcharge-option.

    16390254194_e4b80033b2_b.jpg

    17011230142_6be4284146.jpg 16390235524_cec48cbdc2.jpg

    16826452939_9f54af843c.jpg 16824892468_f31c023491.jpg


    - exactly the same dimensions as the original Hengstler 400 counters
    - 6 rolls, each in black with all lettering in white (screen accurate)
    - can simply be adjusted to your individual numbers
    - with operational reset button
    - curved window (D-shape) with zoom-effect
    - cover screws on top and bottom
    - price is 30 Euros (upcharge when ordering a Completion Set)
    - no additional shipping costs (worldwide insured shipping is included)

    Just cut your resin counter in 2 halves (where the front cover meets the rear bracket) and add this adjustable counter to the rear half.

    Many thanks to Dennis (Blue Snaggletooth) for his friendly support on bringing you this opportunity! :duim:

    This offer is limited. First comes, first served…

    Please send a PM if you are interested.

  3. If you search for nice details to make your E-11 build more realistic, you might get these problems:
    - time consuming research to find (and get) the accurate stuff
    - you’ll often have to buy complete bundles/boxes just to get one single part
    - several orders will cause multiple shipping costs and delays

    With the “E-11 Completion Set” for resin blasters you get a lot of extra parts in just one step:

    #01: accurate hex screws for front muzzle and grip (with crosshatch pattern)
    16638337459_ecb679ed14_c.jpg

    #02: small grub screw for front sight
    16823340732_8dceddfcc3_c.jpg

    #03: accurate aluminum stripe (correct thickness, long enough for scope rail, counter holder and front sight pin)
    16204524983_69851b740b_c.jpg

    #04: small screws (2 pcs) for scope front
    16637065470_fdf33be946_c.jpg

    #05: small screws (3 pcs) for scope front
    16638335919_730f307846_c.jpg

    #06: short mounting screws (5 pcs) for scope (2), counter (1) and folding stock (2)
    16823338192_faa57df04c_c.jpg

    #07: long mounting screws (2 pcs) for more stabilization to magazine receiver port
    16636885608_4270fcf1b5_c.jpg

    #08: medium mounting screws (2pcs) for front lock of folding stock and more stabilization to the handle
    16638334249_7e38a6b81a_c.jpg

    #09: small brass screw for counter or scope rail mounting
    16638334789_96c16e5917_c.jpg

    #10: accurate screw head to replace the screw in the grip (LOCK/FREE)
    16848956536_72945ac90f_c.jpg

    #11: flat head nail for a movable trigger (you will also need the spring from a ballpoint pen)
    16637066070_9ebbf186d8_c.jpg

    You can use the front end of the nail for the selector switch
    16636887698_8b5e47cae9_c.jpg

    #12: accurate steel wire (correct thickness) to create inner spring (see Sterling reference pictures for amount of visible coils)
    16636889158_90609062ab_c.jpg

    #13: accurate metal ring (some layers of insulation tape will avoid sounds in end cap)
    16638338529_6b318b7173_c.jpg

    #14: accurate aluminum channel to modify your end cap clip
    16798574136_4aa1138eab_c.jpg

    #15: big grub screw for magazine receiver
    16202100084_6e566bd923_c.jpg

    #16: LED head and foam to fill your magazine body and make the little button pushable
    16617143427_69515524c1_c.jpg

    #17: plastic tube for inner bolt (perfectly fills the inner barrel of a DoopyDoo’s full resin kit; not recommended for pipe builds because of the wrong diameter)
    16873557762_68df4d377a_c.jpg

    #18: aluminum tube to create an inlay for the folding stock
    16638338259_a491659815_c.jpg

    #19: thin ABS plastic sheet for repositioning of clearing strip and to add wing stubs on power cylinders
    16798575406_1d47ecf520_c.jpg

    #20: original 10BA nuts and bolts from the UK to correctly upgrade your power cylinders
    16823375281_751848db49_c.jpg

    #21: accurate aluminum cylinders and wire for building the central capacitors
    16798575766_6536706778_c.jpg

    #22: red textile insulated wire for the rear side of the power cylinders
    16202097864_9068d2eb88_c.jpg

    #23: green stuff (7 cm) two-component epoxy modelling clay (might not sound much, but if not wasted it will be more than enough)
    16638333449_6cb9700df5_c.jpg

    #24: super glue (2ml) less is more…
    16638333909_0900178714_c.jpg

    #25: cable ties (3 pcs) to provide tight pressure when gluing parts to the receiver
    16638333649_c157ebb410_c.jpg

    #26: a bit of real rust powder to add aging and weathering to your blaster (less is more)
    16202096654_f206f8c388_c.jpg


    Price is 32 Euro. This includes PayPal & worldwide insured shipping. (30 Euro in Germany because of cheaper local shipping).

    Will now also accept payments in USD and GBP. Please send me a PM when you’re interested.

    If you also want accurate details for your resin counter, have a look at the next posting.

    Feel free to ask any questions and/or check out my E-11 build to see, how most of these parts got integrated.

  4. Don’t know if this has ever been discussed anywhere, but could it be possible, that a Renault car logo was taken to vac-form the sniper knee plate?

    In the early 1970’s Renault had changed its logo as you can see here:
    16855257486_095db0b2d7_o.jpg

    So when the TD suits were in production, that logo already existed on cars.
    16693738120_aa66454988_o.jpg

    Compared to the TD knee plate it just looks a bit wider, like if the original was cut in two halves and some little pieces were added to top and bottom.
    Then filled the surface to get a smooth result. (picture of sniper knee taken from the CRL)
    16880187931_8cfbb7ea0d_c.jpg

    Is there any confirmed information about that?

  5. Hello everybody,

    although being registered for quite some time now, I haven’t posted much and feel I should introduce myself here.

    My name is Tino, living in Germany, 38 years old, father of two kids (5 + 8).

    In 2013 I started the TK journey on the FISD with an E-11 blaster build that took several months (and modifications).

    Next step was my TK (Troopermaster) and when it came to light weathering, that was the first time I had a bit of that feeling, which you all here will surely know and thought:

    There could be more to that suit than just TK… But that has been left for the future, as an additional upgrade. So, maybe some day I will do a TK-TD conversion.

    In the meantime I am offering Completion Sets for E-11 builds and currently working on some other nice things for the community…

    As my TK was just meant as a display, I am not aiming to become a 501st member - but you never know what comes your way…

    Best regards to all the dirty ones here (wow, there are much more and cooler smilies than on the FISD :yes:)

    Tino

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