pandatrooper

Nice, nice. I like!

You'll have to search and see if hobby stores carry Testors paints. here's a link to some other shops that might http://www.scale-models.co.uk/chit-chat/4382-testors-paint.html Some people like the Humbrols, I personally can't stand them. You need to mix them forever and let them sit for 3-4 days, which is ridiculous. Testors dry in like 30 minutes and cure hard overnight. They are cheaper and flow better IMO. I spoke to a Humbrol rep and they changed the formulas because they had toxic ingredients in them, and ever since then they are runny and take forever to dry. I think many people like them because that's what we "think" they used in '77. I personally don't care, as long as the color is close to screen used, no one cares what brand you use. Here's some tube stripe masking templates I created a while back http://forum.mepd.net/index.php?showtopic=8176

Those colors will work fine. Some people will use gloss or semi gloss paints. Personally, I have switched to Testors Model master paints as I feel they flow better and dry mor consistently. Humbrol changed their formulations due to regulations and they take days to dry. Just make sure to let each coat dry overnight. Yes. TDs and stunt ANH TKs had flat green lenses. Heres my ATA ABS build for painting tips http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=14806&st=0

Nice nice! Great work! Soon I will start an entire garrison of T-21 armed troopers!!!

Very cool pics, thanks for sharing. Nice to see you again Pat. Hope things work out for you!

Looking good. My only other feedback: The rear sight cover should be rotated 90 degrees Perhaps the coiled wire should be shorter? It would be nice to see some of the specific dirt patterns on the chest / ab of this trooper. He has very distinct weathering.

Well, technically youre not supposed to screen movies in places of business (dont think for a minute that the bar wouldnt be making money from drink sales off the event) and even if you plan to, you need to get written permission and license it for a screening. Charity screenings often also still need permission / licensing. Can't blame George for protecting his property.

I work in the game industry, and it pains me every time I see stuff like that. You can still make armor "sexy" and totally functional / look tough, just that no one (game designers) do that! Very much like in this video!

The ones I got are the 3/4" round ones. You can stack them for more holding power.

Thanks guys. I was able to ride tge scooter fine. I had to keep my feet on the ground because the parade pace was quite slow. I did get up to speed when I did some fast circles for the crowd. Darthchridan: I cut my own patterns out of felt for the head tails and sewed them, glued them onto a foam beanie cap and stuffed the head tails with fibetfill and painted the stripes with acrylic.

I use satin black for everything.

I find the majority of troopers build their thighs too big and they build them like a straight tube. They should be tapered. Wide at the top and narrow at the knee. Look at the original pics. They should also be fitted. Uou should not be able to stick your hand in the thighs, again look at the reference for sizing. I make mine so that there is barely any space or gap. A set of belt garters will keep them in place.

Thats because most armor made nowadays based on the TE origins are Rotj / tour suit based, so of course it doesnt look like Anh. Rotj was recast from the original armor, so there will be loss of detail from generation to generation. Consider how far Ata is from the original, and there will be differences. If it doesnt suit your needs then modify it.

Greenish black. it has a greenish hue on screen. Most people use a green pouch and dye it black. It never comes out 100% black which is perfect.

The angle wouldnt normally be 90 degrees or very sharp on most armor even original armor as it needs a slightly mor shallow angle so that the plastic can release from the forming buck. You can try to deepen the angle with a heat sealing iron, but keep in mind that spot under the chest won't be seen from an average height person, and the depth of the angle will be slightly hidden from view.

Pics from the Canada Day parade in Vancouver BC Canada yesterday. I'm the TD on the 2 wheel Imperial Transport. Little Ahsoka is my friend (TK Kimus daughter) with her Ahsoka costume that I made for her, 2 days before the Emerald City Comic Con in Seattle.

Very cool! Its so nice to see so many T-21 builds now.

Looking great so far! the cross section support is a good idea. I had considered the same with mine but I needed room for electronics. By the way, as a prop builder and costume builder, I really do appreciate it when people give shout outs / credit to those that put in the time to help others. Thank you!

Coming along nicely.

The right shin is correct on AP. The left shin has a correct outer but the inner shin is the same as the outer right. AP does not have a unique inner left shin. Both thighs halves on AP do not line up correctly. You either have to live with the halves being offset or modify the thigh tops with a heat sealing iron to match.

The bottom of the page in the FISD tutorial section has some good info. Screen accurate uses wire loops and elastic to join the torso parts, and in some areas like the shoulder bells the elastic was glued in place. http://www.whitearmor.net/home/tutorials/armor-tutorials/ab-and-back.html I personally prefer snap plates as it allows movement and stretch and ease of disassembly if required. The wire loop method is authentic but some armor types do not have deep enough return edges to support it. The shins are butt joined on the front, and the back has a cover strip attached to the outer shin on each leg. http://www.whitearmor.net/home/tutorials/armor-tutorials/thighsshins.html The shins have not much return at all on the bottom near the ankles, and a little on top. You might want to reference some of the LFL archive pics for the best examples of how much plastic to leave before cutting.

Nice work so far, trooper.

Best of luck Rolf, I know your new gear will set a high bar again when its completed.

All the best Paul!

I pmed him and asked some specific questions about the dial, plugs etc. He answered them and I posted thd answers here. Not sure if its legit as he had no other detailed pics.