Boingo

I am beginning to suspect ebay figured the trigger housing could be used on a working gun. Perhaps if the seller did something to it to make it non-functional, such as filling in the section where the triger parts fit with resin or solder, it might not have been pulled.

*Believe me*. I've researched exhaustively, and my collection of reference photos is extensive (280+ and growing). I am just very very picky, almost to the point of compulsion. Basically, if I can't get this thing to look like it just rolled of the line at Mauser Werke, I simply won't be happy. That's just the kind of guy I am.

I can not believe it! The part I have dreaded working on the most on my MG34 has been the trigger housing (grip / trigger ring). I could easily buy one from a distributer here in Canada, but the distributer is a five hour drive away, and the (insert appropriate insulting derogitory terms and swearing here) want 150 bucks for it! Well, today I thought I got lucky. A guy was selling one on ebay, and I managed to snag it for less than half what that distributer was asking for one. I was ecstatic. All I had to do was wait for the guy to inform me how much he wanted for shipping, and the part I least wanted to model would not have to be modeled at all. Then I got this: I was robbed! I was robbed I tells ya! ARRRRGH!

You could always try making an MG34 prop of your own. < I've been badly bogged down on mine, because I am trying to make mine as accurate as possible, and good solid measurements are pretty much non existant. Since I am making mine as a WWII prop , and as a showpiece (not for trooping), I am being extremely picky. Check out http://www.doomlegends.com/deimwolf/mg34model.html if you want a good laugh at my seemingly futile progress. >> I have seen a few pages with instructions on how to make a good basic MG34. Unfortunately, I do not have a link to any of these sites at the moment. Perhaps somebody would be nice enough to post a link or two, if he knows where these are. As an alternative, I know I saw a site where a fellow made an extremely precise replica of a Sterling submachine gun, which he then used to make an excellent standard trooper blaster. Like the prop MG34s, I do not have a link. Hopefully, somebody else does, and will be nice enough to post it.

Ah yes. anoher Cushman Paintball victim like me. We really ought to get together and make some kind of effort to warn people away from Cushman, and prevent them from being ripped off like the rest of us have.

None of your pics are currently showing up (red X city). Also, could you post a link to your tutorial?

1" is the inner diameter. The outer diameter, the one that is important, is 1 1/4".

I have found a couple of web pages and a pdf file detailing the standards used in technical drawing. I believe these will be helpful in developing drawings of various parts needed for this effort. http://www.answers.com/topic/engineering-drawing http://pergatory.mit.edu/2.007/Resources/drawings/ http://www.tech.plymouth.ac.uk/dmme/dsg ... _Notes.pdf Also, here is some information on how to use calipers for those who do not already know: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calipers#Vernier_calipers Cheap plastic calipers can be found in dollar stores (99¢ stores), and are more than accurate enough for our needs. They are certainly much better than using a ruler. I would also like to suggest that we use a system I call "Nice & Greedy". Nice means that we should all share our measurements and other important information. Greedy means that each individual should try his best to be the one who creates the best drawing or article, for the sake of bragging rights. If this system works, eventually we will come down to having the best of the best as far measurements, drawings, and building methods to post on the site are concerned. Everybody wins. I already have my bipod disassembled, and I am working on measured drawing of its parts as we speak.

<> I just came across this. Some of you might be interested. http://cgi.ebay.ca/1941-MG34-Mg-34-Movi ... dZViewItem

Eeeexcellent. I just posted my MG34 resource idea on this thread just moments ago.

At the moment, there is no definative MG34 resource. There are plenty of reference photos, but not the kind of in depth source for measurements and building techniques one really needs for building a high quality detailed prop from scratch. Here's a suggestion. How about we all get together and see if we can make a definative MG34 resource ourselves? I am not just talking about more reference photos, or a few quick drawings. My idea is for the group to create a combination of resources that will allow even the crudest newbie to create a detailed prop that would make the engineers at Mausser Worke who designed the MG34 sit up and applaud. These would include detailed full scale (printable) blueprints with measurements accurate to within a fraction of a millimetre, along with articles explaining various methods for building parts and assembling them in such a way that is not only accurate, but also capable of surviving the rigors of being hauled around to various meetings and conventions. This is the kind of resource everybody needs. The finished group of drawings, measurements, and articles would make a great addition to the MEPD web site, as well as a good addition to the web sites of all of the contributers, who, of course, can then proceed to brag about how wonderful their contributions are. I've got a real MG34 bipod I can create detailed measured drawings from. Is anyone else game? If you are, you know what to do. Pull out you calipers, warm up your drawing programs, and get ready to roll! (If you are a moderator, and like this idea, please make this a sticky (pinned) topic.)

Excellent. An AutoCAD or DXF version would be extrememly helpful. If you have a version that is printable (black on white, with grey or dashed lines for the internal details instead of red on black with green), that would be fantastic. I would like to suggest that you bring these plans to the attention of TK-4935 in this thread. He is trying to scratch build an MG34 bipod. I sent him a scan or two of my biopd the other night, and intend to send him a measured drawing, and recomendations on how to build one over the course of the next week. I believe that he will be very happy indeed if he can get hold of your drawings. This leads me to an idea that perhaps we should all get together and see if we can create a definative set of drawings and measurements for model builders to use. I think I will start a new thread about it and see what the moderator thinks.

A first snippet of information is on its way to you. I will send more as I am able to.

Because of their shape, I imagine the legs would be ideal for vacuuforming. The rest of the parts could be recreated with bits of pipe and other miscellaneous hardware store items, or by mixing up some polyester resin (fibreglass resin), letting it harden, then carving the hardened block. If I can post or send some measurements, would that help?

Yeah, but I was planning to include pics created by dropping the bipod on my flatbed scanner (meaning little or no perspective distortion), and some measurements. Anyway ... I have com across an MG34 bipod for sale, which, of course, you or sombody else might be interested in at International Military antiques You may find, like me, that buying a few real parts may be more useful than building replica pieces yourself.

I actually have a copy of that pic. Thanks just the same. <> The standard MG34 was 48" long. There was also a version with a shorter barrel some time during the war, but I do not know much about that one.

Sorry to make this a double post, but I have not received any replies since I last posted here over 3 1/2 months ago. I have many many requests for measurements, so that I may resume work on my MG34, but I think I will just repeat the ones I have already requested for now. (I have been getting my measurements so far from a Cushman Paintball vacuuformed "replica", which, as you all know, is very poor quality. Measurements are virtually impossible on the widths of nearly everything having to do with the receiver with this item, due to warpage that occured when I tried to reinforce "replica" with polyester resin, so I am really stuck when it comes to these measurements.) Is it possible for anyone to give me any of the following: -the diameter of the holes in the barrel shroud - The thickness of the trigger assembly (this part*) at its thickest point, as well as its overall dimensions. - The width to the receiver cover (this part*) at about the region where the ID number is stamped. - The overall dimensions of the butt stock, especially the diameter of the metal ring where it connects to the recoil buffer and receiver. Thank you.

I have a *real* MG34 bipod that I got a few months ago. If you like, I can post some photos and measurements for you.

Have you ever considered using a sheet of thick styrene, a coping saw and some sandpaper to make athe spirals?

You do not have to build a whole table for vacuuforming. You only need to build a shallow box that can be hooked up to a vacuum cleaner or a shop vac. You can buy styrene as 8 1/2" x 11" sheets at you local hobby store. For this particular object, you would probably want to use 0.080" thick styrene (~ 1mm). To build a vacuuforming box, you will need: A piece of 1" x 2" spruce A small sheet of masonite or plywood A 1 1/4" ABS pipe elbow A bushing or flange for 1 1/4" ABS pipe Craft foam Wire mesh or a grill ABS glue (if you don't already have some) A tube of No More Nails The 1 x 2 will be used as the sides of your box. You simply cut the 1 x 2s, and create a frame that is about the size of the styrene sheets you want to use. That will be X by X by 1 1/2" (1 x 2s are actually 3/4 x 1 1/2s!). The bottom of the box will be made from the masonite or plywood. Near the front of the box, you will need a hole where the ABS elbow will attach to. I attached mine by using a bushing . The narrow part of the bushing fit through the hole and was glued into the elbow. The flanged edge of the bushing was larger than the hole, so the bushing and elbow were then firmly attached to the masonite I used. The elbow faces forward. It is what you will use to connect the bow to the vacuum cleaner or shop vac. Once the bottem is nailed to the frame, you need to fill all cracks and seams with No More Nails. This seals the box so that air can not be sucked in via any other place than the top. The top of the box is made from wire mesh or a metal grill. To prevent the mesh from colapsing in to the box from use, or some accident, you will want to place a number of small posts between it an the bottom of the box. You attach the craft foam, or something similar, around the edge of the top of the box. This is to form a seal during the vacuuforming process. There. That's easy. You don't need a full sized table, just the box, and the box is small enough to just stick in your closet whenever you are not using it.

I'll bet you are talking about Pic coils. If you give me a few minutes, I will find and post some good pics of some MG15/MG34 saddle drums you can use as reference. ... (Ten or fifteen minutes elapse.) ... Okay. Here they are. These are photos of two saddle drum magazines, plus one drawing. The magazines were taken from MG34s, but do not be alarmed by this. The saddle drum magazines used by the two weapons are virtually identical: Please note that on the outside edge of the raised spiral is a matching indented groove. As suggested earlier in this thread, I believe the ends of this type of saddle drum magazine would be ideal for vacuuforming as a way of making them.

Any suggestions on the best way to drill holes in 1" PVC pipe? I am using 1" PVC for the barrel shroud of my MG34 model. What should the size of the holes be? What kind of bit makes the cleanest hole? Which is better, a high speed or a lower speed? Will a drill press give me any better results than a hand drill? Miscellaneous?

Here is a measurement I can use right away. What is the diameter of the holes in the barrel shroud? (Oh yes. Progress updated. http://www.doomlegends.com/deimwolf/mg34model.html )

A little rich for my blood, but it might do somebody here some good. http://www.wwiiguns.com/shop/products.php?p=2663df

Since I now have a Cushman Paintball MG34 bipod ($10.00 US plus shipping), and a real MG34 bipod (£56.00 plus shipping), perhaps I could be convinced to take a few comparison photos.