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crashmann

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Posts posted by crashmann

  1. Chris has graciously allowed me to share the template with all of the Sandtroopers here:

    http://tk386.com/remotepix/sandtrooper/T21...ck_Template.pdf

    Here's what Chris had to say about the template:

    "The stock is only 32 inches long on my template, but I was going by TK-409's plans, where PVC pipe would be slid over and screwed to the end of the stock, making up the rest of the length, check out his tutorial to see what I mean at http://www.tk409.com "

    Chris, TK-409 also recommends this thread:

    http://p075.ezboard.com/Need-Blueprints-fo...opicID=30.topic

    Enjoy!

    Charlie

  2. Very nice work! It does look a bit more orange than most weathering posted here, perhaps lightly add some dark brown? Also, get some dirt in the ribs of the forearms.

    I like your work on the helmet. You've got the grit in the crevices like it's been wiped off between missions. Try to apply the same technique to your legs.

    You're off to a great start and I'm looking forward to seeing your backpack! :duim:

    Charlie

  3. There was a tutorial around here somewhere with that info...

    http://forum.mepd.net/index.php?showtopic=...40&start=40 - Post 45, 1/4 the way down the page

    Remove the plunger from inside the lid

    Drill a hole in the tube about 2" from the bottom

    Insert a 1 1/2" long screw with a large plastic washer through the hole from the inside the tube

    Drill a hole for the screw through the center of the flexible part of the pitcher lid

    Paint the hard part of the lid black

    Mount the flexible part on the top (without the plunger) and push it onto the screw

    Secure it with an acorn nut and some threadlock

    Tada!

    Charlie

  4. Wow, beautiful work Mike! I love the story behind the cistern too, that makes it even more authentic :duim:

    One question though - Are you going to use the pink umbrella with the new pack?

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    :D

    Charlie

  5. What an awesome Christmas present! Can I have one too, Charlie?

    Sure, for One Million Dollars, muwha-ha-ha-ha!

    Posted Image

    I now understand why Mike refuses to do backpack buildups - it is a huge project, almost as big as assembling stormtrooper armor! To push this out the door, I had to work on it for two weeks straight - in the evenings when I got home from work, and all weekend. My family is very grateful the backpack has moved out of the house, and they can see Daddy again :D

    To the folks that have completed one of these kits (or five) I salute you! :salute:

    If I were to build another backpack, the labor fee would be very high :blink:

    Charlie

  6. Oh yes, your recommendations for the mounting points on the cistern worked perfectly. I chose to do mount the screw through the hamburger stackers and nipple the hard way (you'll have to wait for the video to see the sordid details), but it required a right angle screwdriver going through a small hole in the bottom of the stacker.

    Posted Image

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    For the upper screw going into the curvy pipe, I used JB Weld to epoxy a hex nut on the side of the pipe.

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    You could shake the whole thing and only notice some slight flexing. I do NOT recommend shaking it too vigorously unless you are prepared to re-mount it!

    I wish I had time to take detailed pictures of the process, but then I never would have finished (you know how slow I am to process pictures :D )

    I did video the entire buildup - 20 hours worth of DVD's :blink:

    Now to boil it down to a 10 minute YouTube video... Yeah right, I'll never get around to making that happen!

    Charlie

  7. Interesting... It looks like KauPo is Smooth-On's German site.

    I have read through the technical details of the Task urethane resin and it does have higher compressive strength than Smooth Cast 320. However, it requires much more work to get the best results:

    Pressure cast at 60 PSI for 15 minutes

    - The mold will get very hot and release very strong fumes

    - Casting can only be a maximum of 1/2" thick

    Post cure in an oven for 150° for 4 hours

    So there's a lot more labor involved with this resin in addition to the higher cost of the material. I might get a trial size container to see how it performs, but if I were to offer it for sale, it would probably be twice as expensive.

    I think the Smooth Cast 320 would be plenty rugged, especially when glued to a flat piece of .080 ABS. As long as you're not playing "bumper backpacks" (like bumper cars at the carnival), then I don't think folks will have problems with the faceplate breaking.

    Anyone have trooping experience where the radio was beaten to the point where a resin version would not have survived?

    Charlie

  8. I think we can still keep the knobs solid. I'm going to see about having a bolt cast in the resin to make it easier to mount to the faceplate. You would just drill a hole for the screw to pass through the faceplate and into the knob.

    The faceplate will be cast with a 1/4" base. You will then glue this onto a flat piece of HIPS, which will then be glued together with a HIPS box. Hopefully the HIPS baseplate will add strength to the resin part so it won't break very easily.

    Overall, like Todd said, the total weight should be a little over a pound. Just a few ounces heavier than the existing vac formed radio.

    We're not sure of the pricing, as it will depend on how much resin is required to cast the faceplate and knobs. As soon as we figure it out, we'll let you know!

    Charlie

  9. Does everyone agrees on me having to make smaller buttons?

    Yes, my first reaction was similar to Little Red Riding Hood "My, what large buttons you have!"

    Just a little smaller would do the trick :duim:

    So, what's this magic E6000 dissolving liquid that you've found, hmm?

    Charlie

  10. I've figured out how to trim the seed trays and get them to stay in position!

    The trays are shipped with a 1/4" lip all the way around the edge. If you try to butt the trays together with this lip, they'll never line up, nor will they stay in position. If you cut down the lip on both trays so they are completely flat, then the trays will slide apart, as evidenced by the "move along" backpack:

    Posted Image

    So (although technically not exactly screen accurate), trim the lip on one tray:

    Posted Image

    Now fit the flat edge of the tray inside the lip of the other:

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    No matter how much you twist, flex, or try to slide the trays apart, they're not going to move.

    Tada!

    Posted Image

    You'll still need to clean up the edge of tray with the lip, perhaps by taking it down to 1/8" tall. Then you need to figure out how you want to keep them closed - magnets, rivets, zip ties, glue, really long screws, hinges, the force, etc...

    Enjoy!

    Charlie

    • Like 1
  11. There's a sticky topic right above titled "Color Blue for backpack parts"

    http://forum.mepd.net/index.php?showtopic=4987

    I really like the Rustoleum Satin "Lake Blue" 241252 found at Home Depot, and I posted a few pictures of painted parts.

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    I'd swear that someone at Rustoelum is a Sandtrooper, because the color looks spot on for the movie! It looks a little more gray than the photos show. It's really a nice blend of blue and gray.

    Does anyone have pictures of Humbrol 47 painted parts?

    Charlie

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