Tyranus Posted February 6, 2007 Author Share Posted February 6, 2007 That's it exactly. I am not sure what I may do there yet. Once I get all other pieces lined up and begin stripping the paintjob off to prep for repainting, I will check that out and figure something out. Maybe I could even a piece of Styrene cut to fit, just to pop in and cover the hole. Once in place it could be painted black and dry brushed with a metallic silver to weather it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydave Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 My sterling had a piece of thin aluminum.They held in place by filling the void in the gun with putty behind the aluminum plate.I removed the putty because it prevented the mag from going in all the way.I will make another plate like the one that was there but will have to come up with another way of holding it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyranus Posted February 6, 2007 Author Share Posted February 6, 2007 Sounds like a good idea. Anyone have any thoughts about the trigger and selector switch issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydave Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 Like you said drilling might be the way to go.Probably not going to be easy,never heard about it until your post.I have not had the time to take mine apart yet to clean it up.I also have to cut the rear end of the ejector port on a angle because when they put the steel bar stock in the reciever it was put foward to far and the ejector port is streight at the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyranus Posted February 6, 2007 Author Share Posted February 6, 2007 I think I will try drilling out the plug first to allow the trigger mechanism room to fit up inside and operate properly before I start grinding down the mechanism itself. If you haven't picked up the Sterling Manual PDF I posted up, it really helped knowing how to remove the trigger assembly, and walks you through a complete stripping down of the Sterling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tk7602 Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 i was looking at that manual last night my safety switch also doesn't work. i haven't decided yet if i'm going to tackle modifying it or not yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyranus Posted February 6, 2007 Author Share Posted February 6, 2007 The manual does a great job of walking you through removal of the grip and the trigger mechanism. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tk7602 Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 i think i'm going to see what i can do about that ejection port this evening. hopefully i'll have some good pics to show off later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyranus Posted February 7, 2007 Author Share Posted February 7, 2007 Cool! I can't wait to see them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stomper Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 Hey Ward, Two things I have observed: 1. The trigger guard on your Sterling looks like it may be "smooshed" in a bit giving it a slightly more oval shape that it should have. 2. The eagle logo on your Hengstler is covered up by front "cap", mine is exposed when fully assembled, as a "window" is molded into that cap, yours appears to be a "modern" cap, and looks like the one on my "plain version" Hengstler. 3. I achieve the "parkerized" finish using Rustoleum "Professional" flat black (the stuff in the silver can) by holding it back just as far as the spray pattern will allow while still coating the piece. As the paint is atomized from the tip and flying through the air it partially dries before landing on the piece being painted. You just layer it on letting it dry in between coats. If you let it cure for 1-2 weeks it really does make for a pretty durable finish at a "low" cost! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tk7602 Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 Cool! I can't wait to see them. i started up a separate thread so as not to steal yours http://www.mepd.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2302 the PVC pipe slice seems to work well as a way to fill in the ejection port. i'm happy with it at least Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyranus Posted February 7, 2007 Author Share Posted February 7, 2007 Hey Ward, Two things I have observed: 1. The trigger guard on your Sterling looks like it may be "smooshed" in a bit giving it a slightly more oval shape that it should have. 2. The eagle logo on your Hengstler is covered up by front "cap", mine is exposed when fully assembled, as a "window" is molded into that cap, yours appears to be a "modern" cap, and looks like the one on my "plain version" Hengstler. 3. I achieve the "parkerized" finish using Rustoleum "Professional" flat black (the stuff in the silver can) by holding it back just as far as the spray pattern will allow while still coating the piece. As the paint is atomized from the tip and flying through the air it partially dries before landing on the piece being painted. You just layer it on letting it dry in between coats. If you let it cure for 1-2 weeks it really does make for a pretty durable finish at a "low" cost! 1. You are correct. I could opt to remove the trigger guard and carefully try to shape it back out with a few gentle raps from a hammer wrapped in cloth, or leave it and attribute it to one too many battles. 2. Correct again. The black plastic "receptacle" portion of the Hengstler I received does cover the logo, but comes with a measured template for cutting a window in the soft plastic for revealing the logo beneath. I just have not had time yet to cut the opening. I will most likely use a small diameter drill bit for the corners and then connect the holes with a razorknife and metal straightedge. When I have done so, I will post up another pic. 3. Thanks for the painting recipe! I have painted up several aluminum parts for my R2 Unit, and no matter how careful I am to painstakingly prime and sand smooth before, spray carefully in thin layered coats and allow to dry thoroughly for 2 weeks before handling, it always seems to be VERY susceptible to chipping. I have a friend with an auto body collision repair shop that can paint it for me in a heated booth and he says he can reproduce the parkerized finish if I want it. To be honest, I'm not sure I want the Parkerized finish. I mean I know it is what REAL Sterlings had, but most of the props used in the film were probably rented, old battered Sterling with most of the finish gone giving the E-11 blasters the appearance of a smooth, satin-like finish. I'm just not sure which will give a better appearance when completed . . . Parkerized or a smooth satin black. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stomper Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 It starts out all nice and fresh looking, but my E-11's weather pretty nicely and get that worn satin look in places lending an even more "SW used" look to them. Although I don't think you would be trooping with this piece once completed due to the heft of it. You can "distress" the finish and rub your hands over it in various places which casues a "used" look... that workd pretty good for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyranus Posted February 7, 2007 Author Share Posted February 7, 2007 Thanks Tony. I will consider that option. Painting will be a while off, as I have some stripping and clean-up work to do first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydave Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 Hey Ward,counter came in the mail today,looks great.Thanks for hooking me up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyranus Posted February 7, 2007 Author Share Posted February 7, 2007 You're welcome - Glad you like it! I'm very happy with mine too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tk7602 Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 i picked up some rustoleum satin black paint for mine. i think it should look good, but we'll see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyranus Posted February 8, 2007 Author Share Posted February 8, 2007 Here are a couple of good reference pics of a PARKERIZED Sterling finish, and a reference pic of an M19 Tank Scope: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stomper Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 WOW!! That is THE cleanest looking Sterling I have EVER seen! I snagged the full sized photos for future reference.... thanks! That's pretty danged close to the finish I'm getting with that painting technique I described. Mel (aka Avatarman) has one of my folding stocks and can attest to the finish on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyranus Posted February 8, 2007 Author Share Posted February 8, 2007 You're welcome. It really is a clean Sterling. I found the pics in the forums on STERLING TALK...a branch of UZI TALK. Tony, can you post up a Hi-Res image of your paint finish so I can compare it? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tk7602 Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 wow, the finish on mine looked NOTHING like that!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stomper Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 That's becasue the one in the picture is in PRISTINE condition and looks like it's never even been fired by a soldier.... THAT pictured specimen is worth a HEAP of moolah!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tk7602 Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 That's becasue the one in the picture is in PRISTINE condition and looks like it's never even been fired by a soldier.... THAT pictured specimen is worth a HEAP of moolah!! i can only imagine. i wonder where someone digs up something like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyranus Posted February 8, 2007 Author Share Posted February 8, 2007 I saw one in PRISTINE condition for several thousand dollars when I was searching . . . . They are out there if you have the cash. I know I didn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stomper Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 You're welcome. It really is a clean Sterling. I found the pics in the forums on STERLING TALK...a branch of UZI TALK. Tony, can you post up a Hi-Res image of your paint finish so I can compare it? Thanks! OK, as requested here are some close-up shots of the finish on my stuff using the method I stated earlier. It's REALLY hard to properly capture it with the camera I have, but here it is anyway. This is all the higher resolution photbucket will allow me, if you want the FULL ON pics, PM me with your email addy and I'll forward them to you, they're a smidge over 1Mb ea. Just for giggles here are some comparison shots of my scratch built E-11 to an actual de-milled Sterling I borrowed from a garrison mate... not too shabby in comparison IMHO, plus mine only weighs a tad over 3-lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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