So I had an old RS Prop Masters Stormtrooper Helmet that mostly already turned yellow. So I started converting it into a Sandtrooper Helmet. 

The issue is, it's a lot more yellow on the front right of the helmet than on the left - kind of like a Two-Face. 

Now that I'm onto the weathering, I was hoping the paint would mostly cover it up so it isn't really visible anymore. It unfortunately still is. Which means it still kinda looks like Two-Face. It's really hard to tell on photos though. Does anyone have an idea what to do in this situation? 

Also, since it's a quite glossy plastic, it looks like the weathering sits mostly superficial. And it still is glossy after weathering it. Would it help to sand down the surface, so the paint sticks to the helmet more properly? 

Thanks a lot in advance. 

Marc

I’m in the process of finishing up my Sandtrooper and starting the weathering process. 
Does anyone have suggestions/ tutorials on weathering your T-21? I would prefer painting over Fullers Earth but I’m open to all suggestions.

Thanks

Uncle Brain

 

Just wondering if anyone else out there does this, or am I the crazy one?  

(1) I've seen applying a 'wash' coat mentioned a few times... and somebody mentioned a top coat of "Unbleached Titanium"... any more info on exactly what a 'wash' coat is?  Is it just watered down paint spread thinly and evenly over everything?  I don't want oily,  just light/worn/sandy effect like the pic in the CRL.

(2) Do I need to... and how would I best remove the Novus polish on my super-shiny TK before I start?

Thanks in advance 

          Looking for some advice on which fullers earth colors to use for weathering.  I believe 3 colors would be needed (gray, brown, yellow) and have some examples below, but if they need to be lighter/darker please let me know, and any suggestions would be most appreciated.  Thanks!

Gray:         

                                                                         (Gray ocher)

Brown:      

Yellow:      

This is my 2nd attempt at weathering.

This is my 3rd attempt at weathering,

This is the colours I was basing it off

Would like to know what I need to do to get basic approval.

Thank you.

Thank you

Some areas are tough due to the roundness like the lower back side and the top.

Before 

And After.

Am I going the right direction? I usually weather things that are 1:72-1:148 scale and this is the first time weathering something at 1:1 scale. I do intend to do another round on the forearms, shoulder bells, and so fourth.

Thank you all!

I'm not worried about the acrylic paint too much it seems pretty strong and hard to take off without some concerted rubbing, but for the fullers earth would it be a good idea to add something to keep it from coming off? 

I used the hair spray method of coating the parts then adding the fullers on then another coat to help lock it in but should more steps should be taken?

Hey guys, how to know the weathering of the white pauldron trooper in the cantina?, Because we barely see the helmet, part of the backpack and... half the rifle?.

Any help with this will be much appreciated

Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk

http://forum.mepd.net/index.php?showtopic=7274

It uses 2 passes of paint, with pretty simple paint mixtures. It creates a great random looking quality.

I figured a written tutorial with pictures would be really long for the detail I wanted, and I was far too lazy to type that much, so I tried to take a crack at making a video tutorial instead.

Here's a separate tutorial for weathering boots (watch the armor weathering videos below first)

http://forum.mepd.net/index.php?showtopic=7289

Some info / materials / supplies before you start:

- I am using Liquitex "Burnt umber" acrylic paint and Amsterdam "black" and "warm grey (I prefer quality acrylic water based artists paints because the pigments and binders are much better than craft paints)

- I use the burnt umber straight out of the tube for the first pass

- the second pass of the "oil / dirt" color is achieved with about 70% burnt umber, 20% black, and 10% warm grey (approx.)

- I use natural sponges for the weathering and terry cloth rag (wet with water, then wring it ALL out before using)

- don't use wet sponges for weathering (this waters the paint down, reducing the adhesion)

Steps for brown:

- do the "burnt umber pass" first

- make sure to work the paint into the nooks and crannies

- let dry for 5 minutes or so

- use twisting and dabbing motions with damp rag to remove paint

- once you are happy with the brown, let it dry overnight (important)

Steps for "oil colored / black" paint mixture

- again, use the sponge to dab a light coat of the oil / black mixture

- let it dry for 5 mins

- remove most of the black with twisting / dabbing motions to reveal some of the brown

- concentrate on removing most of the black, especially in high spots

- make sure weathering is consistent on both boots and consistent with armor

Part 1: research, prep, supplies and materials required, etc.

Part 2: Burnt umber (brown) first pass

I don’t wish to hurt the white paint underneath if there is any. 

Thanks

What’s the consensus on sealing off weathering that’s done with acrylics etc. Do people use clear coats or a gloss finish... or just leave weathering as is?

I’m guessing the originals didn’t have a top coat.

Cheers

Can someone recommend better complete TD canvas belt that won't come apart ?

Looking for any tips or tricks to weather the fabric part of the belt. I did mine today and very unhappy with the results. Spent a ton of time trying to undo what was done and I think I (mostly) got it to where I can try again. Please let me know how to make it not so paper white and look natural. Thanks in advance.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Early on I decided that the PandaTrooper tutorial was the way to go. I actually really like his finished submission pictures and have been striving to achieve that quality. Got all the paints, supplies and went to work. Working the pieces one by one, close up, I was content. Then I pieced the back together and took it outside for a photo as a way to step back from it. Immediately I felt like it looked way too splotchy. The darks too dark and the lights too light. It looks crusty, not dusty. 

So I pulled a couple pieces back, and this time used the paint much more sparingly smearing it around instead of dabbing it on. Then used a bit wetter rag to blot off the excess with less dry time. It looked a bit better and "less is more". So I re-worked everything I had done thinking I had it....but I'm still on the fence. I dont want all the features to look like they are cartoon outlined but I feel thats what I got going on. 

I am considering switching to the hairspray/grout? I have to say I quite like the results Rob achieved in his thread. Especially the all over dusty effect without harsh lines and spots. That bust shot with the pauldron is awesome. My concern is with the hairspray always feeling tacky and adding a weird glossy lacquered look?

This was my first go

Too splotchy so I wiped down the majority, and did another pass much lighter. Took a comparison shot.

Thinking I was happy, I reworked the rest of the pieces I had done. Still not sure it looks right? Maybe it's just being too close and not seeing the whole.

Going for PO, not SWAT.