f0xtrooper Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 Got a Doopys Resign kit for my b'day from my missus. Still waiting for clearance so I figured i'd get straigt to work on it. I wont go into the basics of the build as there are much better tutorial threads about it. I'll just post my progress and anything I think is interesting enough to mention. The kit is pretty good. the odd dink and orange peel here and there but there in lies the fun First thing I did was glue the grip in place. This gave me something to hold onto whilst I'm drilling and sanding this thing. I didnt want to leave the indented holes on the pipe so I drilled 'em out (oh yes here comes an OCD build!!) This was a lot easier than I originally thought. I only have hand tools to work with and was concerned tat I would end up with a wonky hole. So I drilled a hole through using a no.6 drill bit. Enlarged it and centered it using a dremel cone grinding bit. Finally I punched through with a dremel grinding bit that was roughly the size of the hole. Sorted. I used the same method on the stocks holes except the last one. I had to use a much smaller bit and filed it out by hand. Long time filling but a good job I reckon. I sanded off the fake stock rivets and replaced them with real rivets. (I figure if i'm going to drill out those ugly allen bolts I might as well do all the iffy parts of the kit!) I screwed in a retaining screw to hold the front of the stock in place. I really didnt want to end up glueing the stock on as I want to go for an authentic look and adding the screw leaves about a 1mm gap between the stock and body. This and weathering should give the stock a functional look. Thats all for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyBoy Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 Looks great and what an awesome birthday gift Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iron ram Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 Looks great. When your done I send you mine to do lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RETNUHHA Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 Nice B-Day gift bro, lookin good so far, good luck with the build, cant wait to see it done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dav'ika Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 Those DD all resin kits look pretty sweet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick.black Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 Those DD all resin kits look pretty sweet! I can vouch for the fact that they are awesome for how cheap they are. If you spend alot of time and effort, checking ref pics, you can also make a virtual exact replica of a real Sterling. Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f0xtrooper Posted November 8, 2011 Author Share Posted November 8, 2011 The Doopys kit is fantastic for the price, cheaper than modifying a hasbro. You can make a really great E-11 without doing more than glueing bits on. Personally I think the kit has great scope though for more extreme modifications and authenticity. I depends how far you want to go with it. Personally I have big plans for this little beauty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iron ram Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 Until some one drops it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolf Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 Looking good, keep up the good work trooper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f0xtrooper Posted November 10, 2011 Author Share Posted November 10, 2011 .....replaced the front and grip allen bolts with real ones and replaced a few more screws and rivets. Set about working on the front sight. The cast needed a lot of detailing to get right. It was way off. I eyeballed some sterling shots to see te real shape and set about adjusting it. I had to remove about 5mm off of each side to give the sight its actual shape and file away at the rectangular section inside to smooth it out. Hopefully you can see what I mean. I wanted to take the sight in about 8mm at the sides but I didnt want to loose any of the resins strength. Finally added the "screwdriver bit" to the sight. (Classic ) Going to use a bit of milliput to simulate weld marks and add some strength where possible. Thats all for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarthChridan Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 Hey Mike... you've added great details...especially the front sight PS: Awesome signature Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iron ram Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 .... Going to use a bit of milliput to simulate weld marks and add some strength where possible. Thats all for now. Ok I'm not sure how thick / fluid milliput is but here is a idea if you use a cake decorater funnel ( little metal tip with white bag they apply frosting with ) you can make it look just like welds depending on the size tip you use you could make thick or thin welds You also could use Bondo or paintable chalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f0xtrooper Posted November 14, 2011 Author Share Posted November 14, 2011 Milliput is a 2 part epoxy filler. Tough as old boots but not the easiest to work with. Going to use some bondo on the minor blemishes. Making good progress on the blaster. I've begun to work on the sight. I recessed the resin at the back of the sight a few mm's to old my lens. I just used the dremel for this with a small grinding bit. I bought a cheap set of kids binochulars at a carboot sale to provide the lense. Ground it and shaped it with the dremel. It will go in after painting and when I find a good quality version of the sight graphic. I cut the scope rail from 2mm iron bar. and created a slot for it just shigh of the front T-Track. The back of the rail is screwed down to the front of the rear sight. I filled 2 large rivet heads to create pins for the stock arms and sanded te resin nipples off. The stock arm sits quite comfortabley now with no glue. I may glue it in place after painting havent decided yet. Still trying to find a decent way of doing the mag plate but so far so good. Thats all for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f0xtrooper Posted November 18, 2011 Author Share Posted November 18, 2011 Got the Hengstler bracket complete. I used Billhags old but brilliant tutorial as a basis for this. I ended having to do this twice as the original measurements didnt quite work out. I think maybe the doopys box isnt quite right. Or maybe my maths just sucks! Bolted everything down and finally drilled the screw hole for the rail Looking closer to completion now... Going to of course add my number to the back of the box and lots of detailing still to go. But still on target. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyBoy Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 looks great man!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f0xtrooper Posted November 19, 2011 Author Share Posted November 19, 2011 Today discovered waiting for clearcoat to dry is as much fun as watcing paint dry! To keep myself occupied I got to work on fixing the back of the H box. The back of the doopys is hideous and nowhere to put the "number!" So I set about remaking the back of the box. I measured up the actual box back and copied the measurements into Photoshop. I then used an excellent photo from Billhags scope tutorial of te back of the counter and scaled it up to match. from that I could make a cutting template to create the new box back. Ive included the template for anyone else that wants to do this. Just print it without scaling and acrobat will do the rest. I used 2mm matt styrene baseboard. This isnt the "Evergreen" stuff. Its not glossy and holds paint and bondo really well. Cut out the shape by literally glueing the template on top. I used a dremel to cut away the counter hole. I used a spare piece of 1.5mm plexi and cut it to match the counter hole. I used a hand file to make this a tight fit as its not going in till the end of the build and I dont want to glue it. The reset button is just a piece of scrap matt styrene I had laying about cut to size. Hopefully tommorrow i'll grind away back of the doopys and glue the new styrene one in its place. Then its just a case of blending it in with bondo. All for now. counter.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f0xtrooper Posted November 20, 2011 Author Share Posted November 20, 2011 Grind off the hideous raised section of the doopys box You cant take it all the way down as the back of the box isnt completely flat. Just sand away enough of the resin for the new piece to sit flat. I glued the styrene section on using E6000 and bondo'd around the edges to fill any gaps. finally sanded the bondo flat so the new section looks like a continous piece. Took the oppurtunity to clean up the rest of the box resin and to clean out the resin "bubbles" around the T Track holes. Still not found a good solution for the mag plate...so onto the spring and cocking handle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f0xtrooper Posted November 21, 2011 Author Share Posted November 21, 2011 Cut a piece of PVC pipe to make the end of the bolt. I used a piece left over from my pack. Its exactly the right size. I filled it wit milliput to make it solid and drilled a small hole for a pin. Im using the pins from rivets to hold all the parts on. I drilled into the cocking lever and glued the pin in place. This way I can glue the lever on after painting. The spring is made from some garden wire wrapped around a piece of 15mm pipe and stretched out to look the part. I have cut a small piece of styrene to create a continuation of chamber. Again this will go on after painting. Just the magplate now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FIVE Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 Dude... this is looking amazing! Nothing like getting a good E-11!! P.S. Have we talked about how drew your sig? That's a good drawing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f0xtrooper Posted November 21, 2011 Author Share Posted November 21, 2011 Have we talked about how drew your sig? That's a good drawing! Just some fun I was having in photoshop I used to do alot of illustrations when I was working on my arcade machine project (they payed for it to be honest!). The sandy is based on an sketch by an artist called Csnyde. I thought it looked really "old skool" so I path'd it in photoshop painted the sig up with my wacom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FIVE Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 Just some fun I was having in photoshop I used to do alot of illustrations when I was working on my arcade machine project (they payed for it to be honest!). The sandy is based on an sketch by an artist called Csnyde. I thought it looked really "old skool" so I path'd it in photoshop painted the sig up with my wacom.Good job "pathing" that trooper in PS! Looks totally hand done to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f0xtrooper Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 The OCD build continues I have sprayed up most of the gun, flat black over mettalic silver/brass and added a couple of pearlescent white washes over the details to make them show up a bit more. The H box is still a WIP so that was left out for the moment. Thought i'd share some problem/solutions I have had with the box. I had to lock the counter in position to prevent accidenatlly resetting my number. I used a small piece of styrene to cover the reset buttons slide mechanism. Now no changes to my number. I also had to cut out a square of the boxes plastic on the visible side. I took a rubbing from my resin box and made a cutting template for the dremel. The box is now pretty much mounted just waiting on some free time to paint the back of the box. almost finished...good thing too got my 6 year olds armour to start on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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