Jump to content

Here is my next project that I am going to be working on.


Recommended Posts

I got the "Bolts" and placed them through the holes and twisted the nuts down on

the "Bolts" till flushed against the "End Caps’. I then used the "Round Jewel File"

again on the inside of the ‘End Caps" for some touch ups.

 

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

After this was done, I started to assemble the "Power Cylinders" to see how it

Looks all put together. I put the "Brass Tubes" in the holes and set them on the

"Wings". Next I placed the "End Caps" on the ends of the "Brass Tubes". Then,

I placed the "Capacitors" in the center holes. I aligned up the "Brass tubes" and

The "Caps" and took pics.

I then got my "Dummy Sterling", my Scope with the Rail, my Hengestler, and

And placed everything in place for a test fit. I used a plastic container and a cookie

Box to hold the "Dummy Sterling in place while I placed everything on the sterling

And took some pics. How does it look so far?

 

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How to convert a Plastic "Hengester Socket\Connector".

Since I do not have a "Metal Socket\Connector" for my counter. I am going to convert my plastic one. I took out my "E11 Hyperfirm" and took some measurements of the "Cutout" section of the counter. I measured the distance from the top, bottom, left and right. Made the markings on the "Socket". Took out a metal ruler and connected the lines. I got my "Xacto knife and kept scoring till I cut out the center. I got some "Jewler's Needle Files" to smooth it out. Got my "Counters" and slipped it in too see how it looks and compaired it to the "Hyperfirm".

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Next up is sodering the tubes to the base. To do this I had some help. I am not good with sodering. First the front of the tubes were sodered. Then I did my best to allign the tubes as best as I can and then soder the back caps and run a bead on the backplate allong the tubes. Then soder the tubes to the "V" wings.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Next up I beveled off the "Backplate". I was studying "Play Wolf Cub" modified Template on the variations of the "Powercylinders" I decided to trim off the back of mine. I used a pencil to mark the lines on the back of the "Backplate" and secured it in the vice. I used a "Dremmel" to cut off the corners and to sand off any remaining pieces of metal. When using a "Dremmel"

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Next up is to set the "Center Caps" and tack them in. I frst used a "Utility Knife" to remove the plastic sleave around the "Caps". Then I used a pen awe to tap and mark the area where I wanted to drill the holes for the front wires to sit. I used a dremmel to drill the holes a little deeper I did not want to go all the way through. I did this so that the wires would have a place to sit, so that they can be tacked with one bead of soder. Once the pilot holes were drilled. I began to place the "Caps" in and try to get them as level and even as I could. Once as I got them where I wanted them. I trimmed off and shaped the front wire. Then I got help again to soder the back of the "Caps". I started with the bottom and sodered each one. One at a time. This was to make sure they were placed were I wanted them. After the back was finished, the front wires were tacked.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Painting the parts.

To secure the front screws I untightened the screws to shorten the bolts. When I got the bolts to where I wanted them to be, I used a "Jewel File" to roughen up the front of the end caps and use a papertowel to wipe off any excess shavings. Then I dapen my hands with a moist paper towel. Then I used "Kwick Steel" to hold them into place.

"Kwick Steel" is a type of Epoxy that comes in a tube. First You cut off what you need to work with and then put the rest back intoo the tube and put the cap back on to seal the tube to prevent it from hardening. Then you need to dapen your hands with a moist paper towel. Grab the piece of 'Kwick Steel and roll and kneed it till it turns into a solid color. Then very quickly place the piece of "Kwick Steel" on the end cap. and place the screw back into place and press and hold. I repeated the process on the other cap. Note! "Kwick Steel" cures/dries VERY FAST! you have to be quick to work with it.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After, letting the "Kwick Steel" set for a day, I began to paint the parts, ie the "Power Cylinders", Counter holder and Counter/Socket.

For the paint I used Krylon, Primer & Paint Flat Black. I sent email to Unique caines whom I ordered my "Dummy\Deactivated Stering from and ask what type of paint that he used on assembeling the "Dummy\Deactivated Sterling" . He replied back saying that he used "Flat Black" and polish it wth a cloth after drying.

I took the pieces out on the wall and layed out the paper. I set the "Power Cylinders" on some pieces of scrap wood . I read the instructions on the can and shook the can for a few minutes and checked the direction of the wind and sprayed away.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In painting the counter, I removed the two screws, from the counter. I removed the plastic cover. I placed some "Blue Painters Tape" over the clear plastic. I used a "Xacto Hobby Knife" to trim along the clear window. and removed the excess. I places the counter and the screws in a "Ziplock" plastic bag for safekeeping.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used a wire hanger to place the Counter Socket and counter on while spraying. I held out the "hanger" and sprayed away. I did not get a chance to take a picture of spraying the counter and socket. So I took a picture of of it afterwards. I just placed the wire in the two holes of the plastic part of the counter and set it off to one side and place the wire into the hole of the counter holder and placed the wire through the front and back of the socket and set it on the other side. I did two coats. Left dry for two days and sprayed another two coats and let dry. The instructions on the can said to let dry for 2 hours then you can add on another coat. I let it sit for two days.

Posted Image

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I saw a tip from a fellow trooper on "FISD\Whitearmor.net" of using

2 Neodymium Magnets 1 x 1/4 x1/16 to hold the "Power Cylinders" in place. I like this. In case if I am going to show my "Dummy Sterling" at an event, I ilike the idea of being able to remove the "Power Cylinders" for transport.

I bought a set of two "Neodymium Magnets" for $ 4.98 US on Ebay. It came in a small box. I found out that they are strong and they hold strong. I have place a US Dime currency allong with a measuring tape for reference. Also, I placed the magnets on the Mag houser as reference as how the will be holding the 'Power Cylinders".

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After doing some touch ups on the front of the Counter and on the underside of the "Power Cylinders". I decided to assemble the pieces and see how it looks. I put the front plastic onto the counter and screwed it into place. I place the Counter into the Socket. I screwed the Counter back into place under the "Scope Rail" I placed the "Scope Rail" on the "Dummy\Deactivated Sterling" and locked it into place with the "Hex Bolt". I placed the two Magnets on the "Mag House" and set the "Power Cylinders" on top of the

2 Neodymium Magnets. I set the Counter on the Counter Holder and took some pictures to share. I place the "Dummy\Deactivated Sterling" on top of some "Ziplock Boxes" for holding the build in place for picture taking.

How does it look so far?

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share


×
×
  • Create New...