Jump to content

I modeled this... radio


zenix
 Share

Recommended Posts

I think we'd lose all the details if we just vacuum-formed it...

resin seems more accurate, yet more expensive.

I'll get back on it soon. we've got Thanksgiving this week here in the states

Hi there!

I totally agree with you - if you want highly defined details, resin is the way to go...And with such a nice 3D model with all that awesome detail, it would be very sad losing it in the vac-forming process...

Cheers

Patrick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 207
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Here is the 3D printer printing the model:

Posted Image

This is a model being dug out of the powder:

Posted Image

This is the two models in the depowdering chamber full- and half-scale:

Posted Image

This is the two models, after depowdering, shown with a quarter for size reference:

Posted Image

Next step is to make the mold!

The knobs are already modeled, but not printed. They will be created with another method. I may redo the faceplate printing with the other method, anyway. Its an expensive and slow process, compared to this one. It only took 2 hours to print the large model.

Great! you have a 3d printer is must for prototype
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think we'd lose all the details if we just vacuum-formed it...

resin seems more accurate, yet more expensive.

I'll get back on it soon. we've got Thanksgiving this week here in the states

Only problem whit the resin, its mad heavy to add and wear on the back pack.

Plus the rest of the pack parts, are in softer hips pull.

So it might stand out too sharp, together whit the other parts.

I hope we can see, and buy both versions, as hips & resin.

Cheers :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Only problem whit the resin, its mad heavy to add and wear on the back pack.

Plus the rest of the pack parts, are in softer hips pull.

So it might stand out too sharp, together whit the other parts.

I hope we can see, and buy both versions, as hips & resin.

Cheers :)

Hmm...good point, bro - I did not think about the weight... ;)

Cheers

Patrick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm...good point, bro - I did not think about the weight... ;)

Cheers

Patrick

Thanks bro.

And i guess, that the resin radios will be way more high price, then the hips ones.

Plus the hips don´t brake as hard as the resin, if they get a hit etc.

Cheers :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As Palpintine said, "I'll watch this with great Interest" :)

Look's great and I agree that resin is heavy, I don't know if my back can take

more weight, although I'd like to replace atleast the faceplate on mine.

Will you just sell the face plate or would I have to get the whole box?

Also have you thought of a round about price figure yet?

Keep up the great work brother!

walt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think we can still keep the knobs solid. I'm going to see about having a bolt cast in the resin to make it easier to mount to the faceplate. You would just drill a hole for the screw to pass through the faceplate and into the knob.

The faceplate will be cast with a 1/4" base. You will then glue this onto a flat piece of HIPS, which will then be glued together with a HIPS box. Hopefully the HIPS baseplate will add strength to the resin part so it won't break very easily.

Overall, like Todd said, the total weight should be a little over a pound. Just a few ounces heavier than the existing vac formed radio.

We're not sure of the pricing, as it will depend on how much resin is required to cast the faceplate and knobs. As soon as we figure it out, we'll let you know!

Charlie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think we can still keep the knobs solid. I'm going to see about having a bolt cast in the resin to make it easier to mount to the faceplate. You would just drill a hole for the screw to pass through the faceplate and into the knob.

The faceplate will be cast with a 1/4" base. You will then glue this onto a flat piece of HIPS, which will then be glued together with a HIPS box. Hopefully the HIPS baseplate will add strength to the resin part so it won't break very easily.

Overall, like Todd said, the total weight should be a little over a pound. Just a few ounces heavier than the existing vac formed radio.

We're not sure of the pricing, as it will depend on how much resin is required to cast the faceplate and knobs. As soon as we figure it out, we'll let you know!

Charlie

Sounds good Charlie :) .

Your the man once again, thanks for doing this for all of us.

Best regards from here bro, i can´t wait to see the radio :duim:

( LL COOL J/ I can´t live whit out my radio :peace: )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What if you use some sort of "impact proof" resin? I only know a dealer here in germany who sell that stuff.

It's called "Task" series.

Links: (Sorry only in german available ;()

http://www.kaupo.de/Produktkatalog/Polyure...TASK-Serie.html

"Hauptanwendungen sind Prototyp- und Architekturmodelle, Spielzeugmodelle, ultradünne mechanische Teile und Spezialeffekte."

"main application is for prototyping or architectural models, toys, ultra thin mechanical parts and special fx."

I used that stuff for grip shells on my first E11 Blaster series. That stuff is awesome, you can't break that stuff and it's lightweight. A little bit pricy compared to nomal resin, tho. But it's worth the price and you can use less of that stuff to get a durable cast.

Cheers,

Joerg / TK-607

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting... It looks like KauPo is Smooth-On's German site.

I have read through the technical details of the Task urethane resin and it does have higher compressive strength than Smooth Cast 320. However, it requires much more work to get the best results:

Pressure cast at 60 PSI for 15 minutes

- The mold will get very hot and release very strong fumes

- Casting can only be a maximum of 1/2" thick

Post cure in an oven for 150° for 4 hours

So there's a lot more labor involved with this resin in addition to the higher cost of the material. I might get a trial size container to see how it performs, but if I were to offer it for sale, it would probably be twice as expensive.

I think the Smooth Cast 320 would be plenty rugged, especially when glued to a flat piece of .080 ABS. As long as you're not playing "bumper backpacks" (like bumper cars at the carnival), then I don't think folks will have problems with the faceplate breaking.

Anyone have trooping experience where the radio was beaten to the point where a resin version would not have survived?

Charlie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Any updates on this ? Im ready to build my Pack and I want to use this because of the amazing detail.

yea sorry I haven't updated. I've been working on my TK armor, and socializing. I was waiting to hear back from the 'manager' of the machine at my university and he didnt get back to me yet. I'll email him again today, or maybe stop by the campus. If not, I'll use an alternate method of creating the knobs. the faceplate is done and just needs to be hardened. I'll see how far I get on it this week.

Its worth the wait.

npppp0000.BMP

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

i made the knobs. they get to my house monday. i still have to make the faceplate but we're almost ready

Thanks for the update buddy.

We can´t wait to see more asap.

Hav fun making it.

Troop on :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share


×
×
  • Create New...