Voodoo Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 That is BEAUTIFUL! I want one. (Obviously.) I actually laughed out loud at the shot of the Onyx. I have so been there. Last night, I was working tired and tipped a mold and ran that stuff down my WHITE kitchen cabinets. My wife was thrilled. What was I to do, the Tour was on, I couldn't work in my work room, no tv. Hmmm. It's a shame someone isn't already casting those large dials in black onyx. Oh wait. . . I do that. I'd be glad to send you a sample and work out a deal. Just sayin' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Voodoo Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 Charlie, I tried to PM you but I am getting that "message title" error again. Drop me a PM so I can respond to it. I'd like to talk to you seriously about the large dials. Thanks. Dana (Voodoo) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quartermaster Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 I'm in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolf Posted July 8, 2010 Share Posted July 8, 2010 The parts were printed using Somos 11122 and cast in Mold Max 40 silicone. I think because of the way the parts are grown, one micro-thin layer at a time, this creates ridges on the vertical surfaces, and if it is not sealed with paint, then the silicone grips onto it. This past weekend I continued plucking, scraping, and cleaning the little bits off the faceplate. Sanded the edges and valleys with 320 grit sandpaper. Then I hit it with Testors gray primer and sanded with 600 grit between coats. Once the primer was cured, I put on a couple layers of Rustoleum Satin Black. Warning - Do not put 3D printed parts in your hot car to cure the paint! Funky warping and craziness will ensue! So I wrestled to get that straightened out... I layed on two coats of Mann's Ease Release and used a medium paintbrush to ensure it got into all of the corners. Mixed up the remainder of the Mold Max 40 and de-gassed it on the vac table: I carefully poured the silicone onto the radio faceplate and started the 24 hour clock, waiting for it to cure. This evening I was very pleased to find the silicone mold separated from the faceplate with ease, and every detail was captured! Time to pour some Black Onyx! Supposedly it has a pot life of 2 1/2 minutes. But at 87 degrees Fahrenheit, it's only 90 seconds! Fortunately, it came out of the mold very easily. Take two turned out this beauty: So, the faceplate mold is good to go, and I can ramp up and make a bunch of them. However, the big knob did not survive the sticky silicone extraction, so we have to get that one printed again Depending on when the big knob arrives, I should have kits ready to go in two weeks! Charlie Beautiful work Charlie. You know i need one, when you are ready for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth Voorhees Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 How are things goin with this Charlie! Im antsy in my pantsy to get one! LOL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volumino Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 How are things goin with this Charlie! Im antsy in my pantsy to get one! LOL! Yeah, me, too. I can't wait to get one cause my pack is waiting for an accurate faceplate and without that, my TM Sandtrooper is still not finished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarthChridan Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 The parts were printed using Somos 11122 and cast in Mold Max 40 silicone. I think because of the way the parts are grown, one micro-thin layer at a time, this creates ridges on the vertical surfaces, and if it is not sealed with paint, then the silicone grips onto it. This past weekend I continued plucking, scraping, and cleaning the little bits off the faceplate. Sanded the edges and valleys with 320 grit sandpaper. Then I hit it with Testors gray primer and sanded with 600 grit between coats. Once the primer was cured, I put on a couple layers of Rustoleum Satin Black. Warning - Do not put 3D printed parts in your hot car to cure the paint! Funky warping and craziness will ensue! So I wrestled to get that straightened out... I layed on two coats of Mann's Ease Release and used a medium paintbrush to ensure it got into all of the corners. Mixed up the remainder of the Mold Max 40 and de-gassed it on the vac table: I carefully poured the silicone onto the radio faceplate and started the 24 hour clock, waiting for it to cure. This evening I was very pleased to find the silicone mold separated from the faceplate with ease, and every detail was captured! Time to pour some Black Onyx! Supposedly it has a pot life of 2 1/2 minutes. But at 87 degrees Fahrenheit, it's only 90 seconds! Fortunately, it came out of the mold very easily. Take two turned out this beauty: So, the faceplate mold is good to go, and I can ramp up and make a bunch of them. However, the big knob did not survive the sticky silicone extraction, so we have to get that one printed again Depending on when the big knob arrives, I should have kits ready to go in two weeks! Charlie Oh, the new panel in my kit with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crashmann Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 At last, the radios are available for sale in this thread! http://forum.mepd.net/index.php?showtopic=7071 $145 including shipping for the US $165 for international If you can make a payment by Thursday night, then I'll ship out your radio this week. If not, then get in the second run starting August 17th. Charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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