Rolf Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 I hope I haven't offended anyone. You are right that there is no right or wrong as long as artistic interpretation is involved. If I ever call something right or wrong, it is only in relation to what is seen on screen as in, if you are going for screen accurate, I THINK (don't know for sure) adding fuller's earth like I did is wrong... perhaps "inaccurate" is a better term. Sad fact is, we will never truly know what was in that little bucket they are using to weather the sandies with... It could be fuller's earth and water... although I seriously doubt it. Non taken bro, you are a very talent and cool person. You are one of the top TD´s in the world, and have inspire many in this hobby. I remember, when i saw your site and TD suit for the first time. My eyes look like this . Your skills rock. I´m happy, to see you back in here buddy . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolf Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 I remember Cap, talk about he know a person. There was on the tunisia set, back then. And they used, some kind of warm up oil on them for the weathering. I will try to find out asap, if i can. Cheers . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD1009 Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 I hope I haven't offended anyone. You are right that there is no right or wrong as long as artistic interpretation is involved. If I ever call something right or wrong, it is only in relation to what is seen on screen as in, if you are going for screen accurate, I THINK (don't know for sure) adding fuller's earth like I did is wrong... perhaps "inaccurate" is a better term. Sad fact is, we will never truly know what was in that little bucket they are using to weather the sandies with... It could be fuller's earth and water... although I seriously doubt it. No right or wrong with a costume but we're all better off in the quest to try and discover the screen accurate method even if it's to just know. I know you are totally on top of that idea Art but I wanted to reiterate it since it can, in the 501st especially, get confused. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nemo Posted December 11, 2008 Author Share Posted December 11, 2008 Wauw I love that second armor(the one to the right) I wish I could get my (dutchys) armor to look something like that. Just have one question, a friend of mine SL-150 aka Holse had ad TD a few years ago, very heavyly weathered, and whith blastmarks on it, would that (blastmarks) be up to mepd code??? Cause I think it makes the armor look so mean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Andrews Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 LOL He got shot in the head and is still standing!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Andrews Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 I remember Cap, talk about he know a person. There was on the tunisia set, back then. And they used, some kind of warm up oil on them for the weathering. I will try to find out asap, if i can. Cheers . Wonder if perhaps they mixed an oil with dirt or fullers or something.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pappy Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 heres my recent work(still reworked it),im using one tone color(earth tone mixed with little black color) and using 2 brush,one for adding the paint,and the other sprayed with silicone oil to 'modify' the pics's are blurry on some,but hope you'll understand the word 'blurry brush footprint'........ignore the ab-plate,thats my mistakes and no turning back......bummer any suggestions to fix it up? its an enamel paint Dutchy are you there? :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutchy Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 Dutchy are you there? :lol: I love the work you did Eric As I also said before and as Art does and a lot more troopers, weathering is something personal and we all want to look good and accurate as can be. But then the unevidable question pops into mind..does it look good. I think that the weathering of each TD is like his own signature/ impression. What is too much for one can be perfect for another... Still I must say, Art, that the 2nd weathering you did is mindblowing.. And Nemo, here you have a few shots of "your" armor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pappy Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 thanks bro i use this as reff but im not satisfied on many spots yet,still trying to fix it up man......i should've had canibalize something instead Hey Nemo looks like you should not be bother to weathering your armor again,thats a good one by dutchy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nemo Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share Posted December 12, 2008 Hey Nemo looks like you should not be bother to weathering your armor again,thats a good one by dutchy Yeah it's a real nice AP that one and the weathering is cool also. No one has commented on my "blastmark" question I would get another AP or te2 bucket and do the blastmarks on that and maybe a few on the armor it self, but I won't if mepd doesn't alow it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pappy Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 Like dutchy said bro......its a personal thing,if you can do it right,why not?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nemo Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share Posted December 12, 2008 Like dutchy said bro......its a personal thing,if you can do it right,why not?! OK, cool, I was just thinking that when the Mepd is very strict about screen accurate armor it might not be up to mepd stds. As I recall no troopers have ever been seen with blastmarks, might be mistaking but don't think so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pappy Posted December 13, 2008 Share Posted December 13, 2008 Acctually there is buddy Here's a sample of blast marks nemo,its not mepd standard i think but i like it ,hope it can give you revelations of a good blast mark new its not related to the topic,should we open up a new thread about it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nemo Posted December 13, 2008 Author Share Posted December 13, 2008 its not related to the topic,should we open up a new thread about it? Yeah why not, then everybody can jion the discusion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolf Posted December 13, 2008 Share Posted December 13, 2008 I remember Cap, talk about he know a person. There was on the tunisia set, back then. And they used, some kind of warm up oil on them for the weathering. I will try to find out asap, if i can. Cheers . Okay here you go. The weathering should be done like this... They used burnt umber oil, based paint thinned with turpentine for the color. Then they would use compressed air to blow it around, plus they would blot it with a towel. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Andrews Posted December 13, 2008 Share Posted December 13, 2008 Okay here you go. The weathering should be done like this... They used burnt umber oil, based paint thinned with turpentine for the color. Then they would use compressed air to blow it around, plus they would blot it with a towel. Cheers Very very interesting! Burnt umber is the color we came up with and the color used on my latest armor test. Am I correct in understanding this info came from someone onsite during the sandtrooper desert scenes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Andrews Posted December 13, 2008 Share Posted December 13, 2008 The other question I have is how would you get an oil based paint off the armor again? We have photos of the armor with most of the paint back off of it, most notably in the promo poster with Vader with the mylar background. Oil based paints take 12 hours to 7 days to dry. Seems odd that they would use that on set... Not arguing. Just trying to understand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolf Posted December 13, 2008 Share Posted December 13, 2008 Very very interesting! Burnt umber is the color we came up with and the color used on my latest armor test. Am I correct in understanding this info came from someone onsite during the sandtrooper desert scenes? I got the info, from early mepd member aka Weibes. He do some work, for hollywood people. And know people, from there. Weibes know a guy, there have a friend there was in tunisia back then. And they told him. I´m no chemistry dude, so i don´t know if it will work for us. I guess, i will stay whit the woodland series. Here is a few shots, of my suit whit the woodland weathering series on. Cheers . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Andrews Posted December 13, 2008 Share Posted December 13, 2008 I am still thinking the woodland scenics is our best bet, although I will prob pick up some oil based paint. Also wondering if compressed air would have been readily available on set in the 70s like we can get it today "in a can". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pappy Posted December 13, 2008 Share Posted December 13, 2008 Okay here you go. The weathering should be done like this... They used burnt umber oil, based paint thinned with turpentine for the color. Then they would use compressed air to blow it around, plus they would blot it with a towel. Cheers Interesting.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolf Posted December 13, 2008 Share Posted December 13, 2008 I just used a set of the wood land series. And i mixed my own sandy, brown tone, mud tones etc out of it. Then i use, some t-shirt cloth pieces. And some toilet paper. A bottle, of warm water. I add the woodland series, on the cloth and add it here and there on the suit. I add it, on the deepest details first. And i start whit the darkest ones first, and then the next darkest and so on. In the end the suit, it total covert. I then take, the used cloth pieces and get it wet. I then carefully, add it on the biggest areas. When the weathering gets wet, whit the cloth. I don´t come off totally, but make some nice fade tones of shades. For extra details, i sometimes use the toilet paper. Because when they get wet, it quick freeze up. Let them sit on the parts a few minutes, them brush them off when they are dry. And you get some nice scratch a like detail, in the weathering... rocky a like. (a few times i have also try to use foam, to add it on. But i think, the t-shirt cloth works better) Maybe, i will only the umber woodland tone next time. And add it in tones. To get the accurate look, it might just have to be add all over. Like in the early steps up above, whit out the details. But i´m not sure, i still like the old method of adding it on. Whit a few tones/colours, and details in. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terrell78 Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 The other question I have is how would you get an oil based paint off the armor again? We have photos of the armor with most of the paint back off of it, most notably in the promo poster with Vader with the mylar background. Oil based paints take 12 hours to 7 days to dry. Seems odd that they would use that on set... Not arguing. Just trying to understand. Even enamel model paint can dry in just a couple hours, and they were in Tunisia so motor oil could have dried up there. Also when filming a movie you worry about the scene, so I doubt anyone cared if the weathering wasn't dry as long as it looked good on film. As to the compressed air question, it was probably an air compressor instead of the cans of compressed air we think of today. Another personal tidbit, a friend who was in the army in WWII refered to anything that was round that stored stuff as a can. Didn't matter if it was a can of food, a 55 gal drum, or a tanker...... it was a can. So it could be a terminology difference from 30+ years ago. The truth is we may never know for sure, but we all strive at getting as close as possible with what is available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pappy Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 Only want to share my experience with enamel paint This paint dry quickly, even in humid areas,after more than 4 hours after applying it, but some places are less thick can still be wiped out I also use a silicone oil with it The dried paint brush for 4-5 minutes with the paint is closer to the texture of the image celebration japan, with silicone because the enamel also become more viscous. enamel better used 1-2 times, then, are not recommended. I experienced some failures, especially in the abdomen. I think they are not wearing them for the weathering because the paint is relatively stubborn, I think several times to use thinner to re-do my weathering. do not use 'decal and paint stripper' even though it said for all surfaces-DONT BELIEVE IT, I try in the remaining part of the armor be painted, scrape the surface of the liquid plastic profusely 1mm, is not recommended Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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